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Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2017 Chrysler Pacifica

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How to Install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica

Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Chrysler Pacifica, we're gonna take a look at and also show you how to install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with the 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. Part number is: 118712. Now, the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness is gonna be exactly what you need to have a 4-pole flat trailer connector on the back of your vehicle. Looks like we've got a dust plug there. This is gonna take care of your right turn and brake, left turn and brake, running lights, and the bare terminal there is gonna be for ground, dust terminal to cover that up. But this is gonna work out really well for cargo carriers or any other trailer that has a 4-flat connector.Now, powering the system is gonna be our module box.

This gets standalone power from the battery. This does a couple things. It's gonna send out the power to our trailer, so we're never gonna have to worry about overloading the vehicle's wiring system, but the module is also designed to isolate the trailer side from the vehicle side. So any shorts or any problems on the trailer won't be transferred into our vehicle, so it's gonna offer us some protection. As we said, it's powered through the 12-volt wire here, so the signals from our t-connector these get plugged in between the tail light housing and the factory connector it's gonna bring the signal down through our wire into our converter box.

That then knows that it needs to send that signal out on the trailer, whatever's appropriate. You're also gonna have a small ground wire there to connect it. The yellow and brown are gonna run to the driver's side, the green wire goes to the passenger side.Tekonsha also provides a really nice hardware kit. It's gonna have just about everything you're gonna need to make your connections going forward. Compared to other wiring harnesses available, they provide heat-shrink butt connectors versus the standard butt connector, so the connections since we are making them outside the vehicle, we recommend these.

They give you a good amount of zip ties, more than what the competitors offer, to kind of help you get this wire ran up front. Then of course, we're gonna have the fuse holder there to protect everything, and if we need it, the self-tapping screw here for the ground wire.Another thing I feel like sets the Tekonsha system apart from its competitors, are in its design. It's a very durable and rugged module here. You can see, inside there's a rubberized potting material, so all the circuit boards are in here and then they fill it up. It's like a rubber epoxy so it gives it some shock absorption.

And again, comparing this to competitors models, these are definitely a more durable module.Now to begin our installation we're gonna open the rear hatch of our Pacifica, and on the inside edge of the tail lights here, we're gonna have two screws. We've got one located here at the top, one located here at the bottom edge. We're gonna use a Torx bit, it's a T30. We'll go in there, we're gonna remove the two screws here on the driver's side and on the passenger side. Gently pull rearward here. We need to separate a pressure clip or two that's on this front side. You may need to put a little bit of gentle pressure kind of here on this front side to separate those. Just be sure you're using something plastic or something rubber. You don't want to have metal in here doing any scratching. Now we'll push down on that tab, that black portion. Pull that apart to separate it.We're gonna be bringing the plug for our wiring, the yellow and brown here on the driver's side, right up through this gap. To help us out with that I'm gonna use a pull wire. You could use a coat hanger, a stiff piece of wire, really anything that's kind of stiff that you can get to run down behind this bumper so you can access it from the bottom. Now, whatever you use, make sure you kind of tuck it in somewhere or zip tie it off here if you want to, just to keep it from falling all the way through. We'll do that on both sides of the vehicle. Now we're gonna be pulling down, at least partially pulling down, this rear panel. We'll start by taking out the three screws right around this outside edge. These are gonna be a 8mm socket. Over here behind the exhaust you'll see one more. We'll take that out. Then we'll just kind of pull that out from behind the edge there. We just want some room to kind of get in here and work. Also gonna be pulling out a couple of these. These are gonna be a 10mm socket. Pull that down there and get in there and work.Now, just forward of that, right here in the middle section these are the rear cross member here we're gonna take out the two 10mm headed bolts and the same kind of fasteners right up above that. This is basically for when we run our wire up to the battery, just while we got the socket out we might as well do it. Come to the driver's side edge, should be able to get under this without any kind of issue, but I'm gonna take out the fasteners that run up this edge so we can get our wire tucked up and in there. As you can see, that's gonna give us good room. We'll have plenty of room to run that wire up and through.Now we'll take our yellow and brown wire, just gonna tape it off to our pull wire. We'll use that to get it pulled up through. We want to plug that in behind the tail light housing. That'll give us an idea of how much slack we're gonna have to mount our box. Stuff that up in there, and we'll get it pulled on through. You want to just start gently working that up through. You might have to kind of turn it and pull it and help it out a little bit. We're just gonna continue to bring that through and it'll be a little bit tight here, but you should be able to get your plug and your rubber portion through.Now we're gonna use a little bit of dielectric grease on each of our two female plugs. This is gonna prevent moisture from building up in there, causing corrosion. We'll slide those two together. The part number for that dielectric grease if you don't have it is: 11755. You want to hear a little bit of a click when you slide those together and then push that prong down. Now the rest of our factory wiring, we can tuck that down in, as well as those two plugs. That'll leave us with our one plug to go into the back of the tail light housing. Then we get that plugged in til we hear the click, then we'll put this right back in place. And we'll replace the two screws that we took out earlier.Now we're gonna remove a few more fasteners here just to get this panel a little bit further down, give us a little bit more room. Now we can get our module box mounted into position. To do that we'll use the double sided tape that's provided. Just want to use some rubbing alcohol and clean off the back of the box. We're gonna be using the back side of the bumper beam here to mount it, so we'll clean that off, as well. That way we can make sure our tape gets a good hold there and sticks properly. We'll pull one side of that off, get that placed on the back side of our module, then we'll stick it right up there in the back side of the beam. Then we'll extend out our green wire there, and both that and our 4-pole wire we'll start running toward the passenger side.On the top side of the bumper, basically above each of these bolts, there's a little bracket or a little hanger that supports that, so it's a good idea to tuck these in behind that as we bring it over. Now of course, this is only gonna come out to our hitch here. We're not going beyond that. So we'll take the length that we want, determine how much you're gonna need hanging out of the back of the vehicle, and we get that secured off. And then we can just zip tie the excess up and out of the way. I like to use the cover to go around the safety chain connection point. That'll keep that from hanging down behind you. Now we're gonna use a little electrical tape just like we did on the driver's side here, for the passenger side, and we'll get this pulled up through. We'll do the same thing here for the passenger side and get everything connected and put back in place.All right. Now I'm gonna pull my slack back out of my green wire and gather it up over here with my excess 4-pole, and then we can zip tie that off, either up to the wire loom that's up in here, or to our hitch. Now we'll connect our black wire. I feel like it's easier to start here at this cross member. We can get that wire up and over. We'll run it right underneath this panel, right back to our box, where we'll make our connection. Once we've got it up here by our box, we want to strip both ends back the one on the bulk wire, and the one coming from our module box. We'll grab one of the provided heat-shrink butt connectors, slide that in and get that crimped down, then we'll use a heat source to shrink that down. Now, you can use a lighter, a mini-torch, or a heat gun; whatever you've got available to you. Just give it a little bit of heat at a time, it'll start shrinking. Just give it time to shrink down all the way, and eventually you'll see a little bit of clear gel that comes out of the end there, and the wire almost looks like it gets bigger or magnifies.Now we'll pull our slack out. There's a little bit of a hole right here in this flange, so I'm gonna use that just to zip tie it off to. That way as we run it forward we won't be pulling on that box. As you run the wire forward towards the battery, you just want to be sure to avoid any sharp edges, any heat sources, anything else really that might cause damage to the wire. Now we can take care of getting our ground wire secured. We're gonna secure this right to the same flange that we just zip tied our black wire off to. We want to use a 1/4" bit driver or socket; through the ring terminal and into that flange steel. We want that to be secure enough so you can't move or wiggle that terminal. Now you can use another zip tie or two, just kind of secure everything off, kind of bunch it up, make it look nice.Now, we've routed our wire beyond this rear panel so you just want to tuck it back up in place and return the fasteners. As we run our wire forward it's a great idea to use plenty of zip ties and secure it out anywhere you can. Now we'll return these fasteners. In the wheel well here, we've got one 10mm bolt right up here that we're gonna take out. That should allow us to run our wiring up and over. We'll go right over top of that brake line. That'll keep everything away from the sway bar or the steering mechanism there that moves. Now we'll push some of our excess straight up. Our battery is gonna be located right up kind of in the forward portion of the engine compartment here on the driver's side, so we just want to have enough up there so we can get ahold of it from the top.Now, to clear out some room here above our battery, we're gonna take this air duct out. Just want to lift up on the front. Once that comes up past the top here just kind of slide it out forward we should be able to reach right down in here, kind of underneath the air box will be where that'll come up. We'll draw our slack through. Just want to make sure you get out all of the slack; you don't want anything hanging in behind. And then choose an area right up here to zip tie that off so we don't have any slack going back under the vehicle. Then we'll pull out of the back of the cover, allow that to come forward. And you can decide either to loosen up this stud, put your ring terminal behind that of course, once you go through the fuse holder or you can use an M6 x .8 thread flange nut, and use one of these two studs if they're available.Next up will be to take our fuse holder, and we want to cut that the 4 or 4:30 position. It's gonna give us two ends. We'll strip both of those back. To one end of that we're gonna add our second butt connector, to the other end we'll add our provided ring terminal. I like to leave just one little coil of wire. That's in case you ever need to make any changes or add a different fuse holder, you'll have a little bit of extra. And there's plenty of room down there to tuck it away. And we'll strip it back, and it's gonna be put into the other end of our butt connector. Now we can bring the ring terminal over our stud. We're using a flange nut, as you can see. Go right to that stud. You need a 10mm socket to tighten that down, but if you go with this stud you're gonna need a 10mm socket for that, as well. We should be able to tilt that down just a little bit and close that cover right over the top.Now, for the excess that we have, I'm gonna bring that up there's a wire loom right down here just zip tie it off right to that after we place our fuse in the fuse holder. Put the cap over there. And you can see, there's a small hole in the bottom of the fuse holder. If you run your zip tie right through that, you can gather up all your excess and get everything secured. Once that's taken care of we'll put our duct back in place. Just gonna snap down in position.Now, to test out our wiring here, we just want to pull that off the hitch. We're gonna use part number I26 here, just a standard 4-pole tester. As we go through the lights in the vehicle, we should see these come on accordingly. We'll start by turning on our running lights, our left blinker, our right blinker, and our brakes.With everything working properly, that's gonna complete our installation of Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector, part number: 118712, on our 2017 Chrysler Pacifica.

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