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Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2017 Dodge Journey

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How to Install the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2017 Dodge Journey


Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Dodge Journey we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt T Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4 Pole Flat Trailer Connector, part number C56330.Here's what our wiring looks like once it's fully installed. It is going to stay on the outside of the vehicle at all times, which is nice because it's going to be right by our hitch whenever we're ready to tow. It's going to give us a 4 pole flat trailer connector, which is going to have our ground, taillights, turn signals and brake lights, so we can get down the road safely and within the law. Now that we've seen the end result, let's go ahead and show you how we got it installed.To begin our installation, we're going to need to open up our rear hatch to gain access to our taillights. We're going to have a few fasteners holding our taillight in, and they're just going to be plastic push pins, so I'm going to take a flat head screwdriver and come to the notch, and pop out the center section of the push pin first, which is going to take some tension off. Once you have that center section popped out, you should be able to work the clip out, and then we can pop the rest of the clip out.

We're going to go ahead and remove all the push pins that are holding both of our taillights in place.Now, to remove the taillight you're going to want to grab the inner section and try to get your hand around the outer edge here, and you're going to want to pull straight back. You don't want to have too much side movement, because there are some pins in there that are going to hold it in place, and you don't want to break those. On the gray connector down here there's going to be a little knob or tab. You're going to want to push in on it, and it'll release so we can pull it off. Now, the one up here, just want to slightly pull up and away, and that way you can pull the rest of it out.

We'll go ahead and do the same thing on the other side.Go ahead and grab your wiring harness, and we're going to start on the driver's side with the red and brown wires, and the yellow and white wires with our T connectors. Now, our T connectors are going to match up along with the harness that's on our vehicle, so we're just going to take the female end and find the male end on our harness, and we're going to plug them together. You're going to want to make sure that they lock into place. We'll do that with the other one as well. Now, the other ends are going to plug into our taillight once we put it back in place.Now, there's going to be a black wire coming off of our module box.

That's going to be going towards our battery. Our kit does come with a butt connector, but I'm going to be replacing it with a heat shrink butt connector for a little bit better protection against corrosion and moisture buildup. Now, if you need some of these, you can pick some up on our website using part number DW05745-5, and that would be for a pack of five of them. You're going to take our butt connector, slide it over our wire, and crimp it into place.On the other end of the wire, we're going to take the length of wire that they give us in our kit, strip back the end, and crimp it to the other end of our butt connector. We're using a heat gun to shrink down my connector.

Just want to mention, if you are using an open flame such as a torch or a lighter, you want to be extra careful not to burn or char the connector or the wire itself. Now, we're going to have another wire coming off of our converter box. It's going to be a white wire with a ring terminal and that's going to be for our ground. We're going to need to secure this to some sheet metal, and we're going to be taking the provided self tapping screw and securing it right here. That way it's out of the way, you still have clearance for our taillight.At this point, we're ready to start running our wires over to the passenger side, so we're going to take all of our wires; the green wire, our 4 pole flat, and the black wire that we extended, and we're going to put it down through the body and through the bumper here, and come out through the bottom. If it's easier, you can take one wire at a time and start feeding it through. It'll make it a little bit easier if you just reach up through the bottom, start pulling all the excess slack out. It never hurst to double check and make sure that it didn't get wadded up and caught on anything. Then we're going to repeat that for all the remaining wires that we have.In order to get our converter box mounted so it's not just banging around the inside of the body there, we've taken the provided double sided foam tape, take one side of the backing off, push on it firmly. We can actually take the other side off, and then we're going to be sticking it right to the inside of the bumper right here. That way, it won't get in the way of the taillights, and we'll still have plenty of room. Just want to make sure you push firm so it sticks and it's not going to fall off.You're going to want to route your green wire over, just going to go right behind the hitch here and just loosely put it in place. Go around the exhaust, and then we're going to need to get our green wire up to our passenger side. We'll go ahead and move back up top and I'll show you how we're going to get it up there.Got an old air line tube here that I had laying around. I'm going to actually feed this down through the body and the bumper here, until it reaches down below, and then I can attach my wire to it and pull it back up. Now, if you don't have an air line tube that's all right, you can use whatever you have available, even if it is just an old coat hanger. Just want something that's going to keep its shape when you start pushing and pulling on it. Just take my air line tube and a little bit of electrical tape and secure my wire to my air line tube. Once we have it up, we're going to pull the tape off and start making our connections.Now on this side, we're only going to have one T connector. We can go ahead and take our connector here, find the male end and the female end, match them up. Make sure they lock into place. We can go ahead and work on putting our taillights back in. You're going to take the last connector coming from our harness, and we're going to plug that into our taillight, then plug the other connector back in as well. Make sure they lock into place, and line our taillight back up, making sure that the pins are lined up as well. Then we can start replacing our fasteners.Now with these push pins, you're going to want to put this outer section in first, and then push the center to lock it down. We'll go ahead and repeat that for the other taillight as well. We'll go ahead and take my 4 pole, and I'm going to loosely route it over to the center of my hitch. I'm just going to take the dust cover, I'm going to use that to just loosely attach it for now. Then we can start focusing on our black wire.Now, our black wire is going to have to run up to the battery, so I'm going to go ahead and run this. Everybody's going to do it a little bit differently. I just want to mention you want to stay away from any heat sources like the exhaust or any moving parts like the steering or suspension components. I'm going to run this, and after I get it done I'll show you how I routed it.I ran my wire back around my muffler, went over the subframe, over the axle, and it came down right by my fuel tank. Went along the outside edge zip tying in to my emergency brake cable, going along the frame, putting a few more zip ties, and finally I came out right by the subframe brace in the front. Now we're going to move up top, and I'll show you how we're going to get our wire up to our battery.Underneath the hood here, our battery post is going to be located right by the driver's side. Since our battery's actually located in the wheel well just below all of this electronics right here, so we're going to have our positive post right here. Again, I'm going to take my fish wire, and I'm going to feed it down so I can meet up with my wire underneath. Again, you just want to be careful where you're routing it. You want to stay away from any heat sources, you want to stay away from any moving parts, because we're going to have our steering linkage as well as the rack and pinion up here, so you just don't want to be rubbing up against it or any other moving, hot parts.Here's where my air line tube came out. I'm going to take the end of my black charge wire, and going to push it into the end of my air line tube slightly, and then take some electrical tape and secure it, making sure it won't fall off. Now we can go back up top and start pulling it through. Once you get your wire up, you want to make sure you pull all the slack out. It's not even a bad idea to take an extra peek underneath to make sure it didn't get wadded up and get stuck, because you don't want to have anything hanging down, potentially getting ripped off when you're going down the road.Our kit's going to come with a fuse holder, so I'm going to go ahead and estimate about how much wire I need, maybe give myself a little bit of extra. I'm going to go ahead and cut our charge wire and strip back the end. Then take a butt connector, and since this one's under the hood and it's not exposed to as much of the elements, I can go ahead and use the one they do provide us in our kit and not be using a heat shrink connector, but if you like, you can go ahead and use that as well.In our kit, the end of our fuse holder has some pre-stripped ends on it, so you can just pull the wires off. Then we can crimp it into the other end of our butt connector. On the other end of our fuse holder, we're going to have a ring terminal that we're going to be crimping in place. Slide it over, crimp it down. Lift up the cover so we can expose the post. We're going to need to remove that nut so we can get our ring terminal in place. We'll be using a 15 millimeter socket to remove the nut. With that removed, we can take our ring terminal, slide it over the post, and then reinstall that nut.We can take our 10 amp fuse, slide it into the fuse holder, and now would be the time to go ahead and tidy up all your wires, zip tying everything and securing it, even at the back. You want to go ahead and zip tie all your loose wires and route everything, and making sure that they're not going to be burned, charred, or ripped out by any hot or moving parts. This is what my wiring looked like when I got done with it. I zip tied everything along the hitch, and then took some wire loom and some electrical tape and wrapped the section here, as well as each section by the exhaust to protect the wires, and then put a little bit of electrical tape around it to hold it. Now, if you need some wire loom, I used 1/2 inch diameter, and you can pick some up on our website using part number 459075-1, and that's going to be by the foot.Our final step is going to be testing our wiring and making sure that it works properly. I got my 4 pole tester here, and if you need one of these, you can pick one upon our website using part number I26. I'm going to grab an extra set of hands and have them run my lights so I can make sure that they're working back here. All right, can you turn on the headlights please Looks good. Left turn signal Good. Right turn signal Good, and the brakes, good. All right, with everything looking good, we're ready to hit the road. That'll finish up your look at the Curt T Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4 Pole Flat Trailer Connector, part number C56330 on our 2017 Dodge Journey.


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Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
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Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
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Dustin K
Employee Chris R
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Chris R
Employee Jonathan Y
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Jonathan Y
Employee Aidan B
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Aidan B
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Ryan G
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Ryan G

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