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T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2017 Ford Escape

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How to Install a T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2017 Ford Escape


Speaker 1: Today on 2017 Ford Escape we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with a 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. That's gonna be part number 118715. So, here's what our wiring is gonna look like once we have it installed. And it's gonna provide us with a 4-Pole flat trailer connector, giving us all the lights we need to safely get down the road, like our taillights, turn signals, and our brake lights.Typically this is designed to stay on the inside of the vehicle, but we wanted to have it down here by our receiver tube, that way it would be ready for us when we tow. There is a grommet on the inside that we can easily route the wire down, and then just route it over to the hitch here. And use the dust cover to attach it so it doesn't drag the ground.Our kit's not gonna require any kind of cutting or splicing into our factory wires.

We're gonna have a T-Connector that's gonna plug in line with our circuits, so that we'll get the appropriate signal at the back of our trailer. Our kit is also gonna be fuse protected so when we run our wire up to the battery for our power, we'll have a fuse there to make sure nothing happens. Now, there's also gonna be a module box that's gonna convert all the signals into a working signal for our trailer, and protect our vehicle, making sure if there is any problems on the end that it doesn't back feed into our Escape.If you do leave the wiring on the inside typically it'll store right under here by your spare tire. Then whenever you want to use it, you drop it out the back hatch, making sure you stay away from the latch area. The weather stripping here will give it enough cushion that it won't get damaged.

Then we can close our hatch and hook it up to our trailer.So, now that we've seen what our wiring looks like, and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed. To begin our installation, we're gonna want to open up the rear hatch. And on either side, just to the inside of where our taillight is, we're gonna have these two plastic plugs. We're gonna need to pull those out so we can get to the fasteners behind there. Just take a flat head screw driver, and you come behind it and pop it out.

Then behind those, we'll take an 8 mm socket and pull out the two bolts that are holding our taillight in. Now, when removing your taillight, you're gonna want to kind of work it loose a little bit. And if you can, come underneath this section, and we want to pull straight back.Once we have our taillight out, we'll come to the connector, and there's a little tab that's gonna be towards the outside. Just push on that, and we can disconnect it. And we'll set our taillight aside and do the same thing for the other side.So, with both taillights removed, we're gonna go ahead and remove the floor covering.

We can set this panel aside. And we're gonna need to pull up the styrofoam that's on either side. Now, on the inside of that styrofoam, there is gonna be two push pin fasteners. So you're gonna want to use a trim panel tool or a flat head screwdriver. Come underneath it. And pry it out. And sometimes, if you kind of lift up on the panel, and you can come underneath the entire push pin and lift up that way, that way you get a little bit more leverage and a little bit more surface area pulling on it. So we're going to remove the other side the same way. Again, you just want to be extra careful because these are known to break rather easy, because they are extremely long and rather hard to get out. But, once we have them both out, go ahead and pull both of those panels out and set them aside.Next we're gonna have to pull this threshold piece off the very back. If we look towards the outer edge, we're gonna have a push pin fastener, and then towards the very outside edge we're gonna have a screw that's holding it in. I'm gonna take a T-25 torch bit and we're gonna pull that screw out on each side. Then for our push pin fastener, I'm gonna take a trim panel tool, get behind the push pin and pop it out. And we'll do that for both sides. And with those removed, there's some clips that are holding it in place, but we're gonna want to reach underneath. Pull up, and it will release those clips, and then we can set it aside.Now we're gonna need to get access behind this panel so we can get to the wiring that goes to the outside. So, we'll just grab out panel. You may need to move the weatherstripping a little bit, and starting at the bottom, we're just gonna start working our way up. And again, there's some clips back there. You just want to pull and it should release those. And we'll be able to have enough room if we just kind of flex that panel. Just be careful not to cause any damage by flexing it too much. Now, we've moved to the outside where that rubber plug is with the wire for our taillight is. Just gonna pull that plug out. And that'll give us a clear shot to go from the inside and bring our wires through.So you want to grab your wiring harness at this point, and we're gonna find the T-connector with the brown and yellow wires on it. We're gonna pull that panel back, and we're gonna take the connectors, and we're gonna route 'em until we can get through that hole. So, if you just want to reach in, then on the outside, we can push a little bit of the connector through and help guide it through. And we just want enough of that wire to come out so we can connect to the taillight wire.Now, before we connect everything up it's always a good idea to put a little bit of dielectric grease inside the connector. Just gonna take some, fill up the connector a little bit. Then we can find the matching plug. Plug it in, and make sure it locks in place.Now, since we want our wire to pass through the grommet, what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna cut a slit in my grommet so that it'll be more towards the center. We can slide the wire in. Then we can push our grommet back in place. I always like to push it in more than I need to, then kinda pull it out to help it seat all the way. Then to help seal that up, I'm gonna take a little but of silicone and I'm just gonna cover up the spot that I put the cut in.So, now we're gonna take the T-connector with the green and red wire, and we're gonna run it along the threshold here, and over to the passenger side doing the same thing. Pulling that grommet out and sending the connector out. So we can take our panel, loosen everything up. And pull that plug out, then route our wire up.Now, back on the driver's side we're gonna have to find a spot to mount our converter box, as well as ground our unit. Now, if we look up right where the two panels meet each other and in a little bit, we're gonna have a factory ground right here. So, I'm gonna take an 8 mm socket. We can take our ground wire, pass the bolt through, and then we'll reinstall it. All right, you just want to make sure that that factory ground wire is still on there whenever you put the nut back in.Now to mount our converter box we have a few different options. We can use the eyelet on top to zip tie it around something, or we can use the double-sided foam tape. You just want to make sure that the area where you're going to be mounting and the box is clean before you put the tape on. So, I'm just gonna take a rag with some rubbing alcohol on it. Clean off the converter box, and then find a nice flat spot that we can mount the box. Let's go on this little ledge right here, it would be out of the way. So, then we can take our double-sided foam tape. Peel the backing off one side. Stick it right on the back of the box. We'll pull the other side off, and then we'll just stick it straight on to that flat surface.Now, the black wire is gonna be our power wire. So we're gonna need to attach the length of wire that they provide us in our kit and run it up to the battery. Now, in the kit it is gonna give you some butt connectors to get that connection made. However, I'm gonna be switching this out for a heat-shrink butt connector. That just gives it a little bit better protection. Now, we do have these available here at etrailer.com as well. So the wire coming off the converter box is already stripped. So, I'll take my heat-shrink butt connector, slide it over. And I'll crimp it down. Then we can take one end of the length of wire and we'll strip it back, and crimp it in to the other end of our butt connector. To shrink down my butt connector, I'm gonna be using a heat gun. But, if you're using a flame, like a torch or a lighter, you just want to be extra careful not to burn or char the wire or the connector itself.So now we're gonna have to run our black wire up to our battery. So we're gonna come to this plug right here. It's gonna be just to the left on the inside right by the wheel well on the bottom of the floor pan. Let's go ahead and pull that plug out, find the end of our wire, and we're gonna pass it down through the opening. We'll just feed all the wire down until we can either reach it at the bottom, or it's all fed through. Now, since we have this opening here we do have the option of routing our 4-pole down there as well. Or we can keep it inside. It's really up to you. It is designed to stay on the inside. But, if you're rather have it by your hitch, this would be a good spot to go down. So we'll go ahead and send our 4-pole down. Just want to make sure you get all the wire through the hole, and it doesn't get stuck.Then again, just like we did with the grommets up top by our taillights, we're gonna go ahead and cut a slit to about halfway in the center or so. We can pass our wires through, and we can put the plug back in place. And again, it's not a bad idea to seal it up with some silicone so we don't have to worry about any kind of leaks, or fumes getting in from the outside.So with all the wires in place we can go ahead and start working on putting the panels back in. You just want to make sure you line up the clips. Make sure they're fully seating back in place. You may have to pull that weatherstripping out a little bit. And we'll put the other panel back in as well. Then we can put our threshold back in place. Just want to make sure that you get that wire away from the clips so that the clips aren't gonna come in and smash them or cause any damage to that wire. So, I'll just pull it as close to the weather stripping as I can. We have our threshold in, and again, just make sure you get that weatherstripping on the right side of it. And with the panels lined back up, we can put the fasteners back in as well. Gonna put our foam trays back in, as well as the push pins that hold it in place. Then we can put the floor covering back in.We can grab our taillights, we can take the connector, and we're gonna plug it in. Now, there's very little room back here, so you just want to find a spot to where the connector will fit, and we can still get our taillight back into position. So, we'll line it up, making sure everything is in the correct spot. You may have to kinda work at it back and forth to get that connector in the right spot. But, once we have it in, and positioned correctly we can put our hardware back in.So, here's where our 4-pole and our power wire came out of the bottom here. Now, our 4-pole we're gonna want to route towards out hitch so we can secure it out there so it will be ready for us. And our black wire, we're gonna want to run up toward the front of the vehicle to where we can connect with the battery. Whenever we route this though, you want to stay away from any moving parts, or anything that may damage it, like heat as well. So, I'm gonna go ahead and run this, and then I'll show you how I routed it.So, my power wire, I ran towards the front. And once I got to the axle, and the cross-member here, I went over and came back down from behind this panel here. Then I went underneath this panel, and it makes it a lot easier if you remove these three nuts. There's gonna be three 10 mm nuts. If you remove those three you can pull the panel down, feed your wire in. Then I had it come out right here. Now, I went ahead and went up to the top of the engine bay, and real close to the firewall, I just sent an airline tube down so I could bring my wire up. And whenever you do that, whether you're using an airline tube or a coat hanger, you just want to stay away from your moving parts like the steering or the axles or any of that. But, I'm gonna take my wire, I'm gonna put it in my airline tube, and also just put electrical tape on it to secure it, so I can go up top and start pulling everything up.Pull my wire up until all the excess is up here. And it's not a bad idea to double check and make sure there's not wad of wire underneath, because we don't want to get it caught when we start driving down the road. Now, just to make sure it isn't gonna fall back down, just for right now, I'm just gonna wrap it around here so it'll hold itself. Then if we come to the panel right next to our brake reservoir, lift up, that's gonna be our battery cover, and we'll expose the positive side of the battery right here.So, now we have our wire up. I'm gonna bring it over towards the positive cable here. I'm just gonna take a zip tie and go around it. That way it'll keep it in the engine bay and I don't have to worry about it falling back down. Our kit is gonna come with a fuse holder, so our circuits are gonna be fuse protected. It's one big loop. So we just come to the middle section. We're gonna cut that in half, and we'll strip back both ends. On one end we'll take another one of our butt connectors and we'll crimp it in place. Then we can give ourselves a little bit of extra, because obviously we're gonna have plenty of wire to reach the battery. But, it never hurts to have a little bit of extra, and we can just tuck it away. So, we'll cut the excess black wire off. Strip back the end, and that'll get crimped in to that butt connector. On the other end of our fuse holder, we're gonna take the ring holder that's in our kit, slide it over the end of our stripped wire, and crimp it down.Now, on the positive post of our battery we're gonna have that nut on top. So, you're gonna wanna grab a 10 mm socket or wrench. We'll loosen it up. Now, this nut probably won't come all the way off, because the crimp the end of the bolt. So, what we're gonna do to make our terminal fit is we'll cut a section out to where it's more of a C shape, but big enough to where it'll go around the bolt still. Just go underneath that washer. Terminal will make full contact with that. Then we can tighten that nut back up. Now we can take our 15 amp fuse, put it in the fuse holder, and we can tuck all the excess wire and the fuse holder down out of the way. And we can replace the cover on the battery.Now all we have left to do is to test our wires. I'll go ahead and remove the dust cap. I'm gonna be plugging in my 4-pole tester. So, now I'll get an extra set of hands, and they'll run my lights and I can verify that they're all working properly. So, if I turn on my headlights we can see that my taillight function's working, as well as the left turn signal, the right turn signal, and my brakes. All we have left to do now is hook up to our trailer and hit the road.That'll finish up your look at the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector, part number 118715 on our 2017 Ford Escape.


Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Kathleen M
Video by:
Kathleen M
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C

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