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Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2017 Jeep Cherokee

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2017 Jeep Cherokee

Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Jeep Cherokee we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Tekonsha T1 Vehicle Wiring Harness with Four Pole Flat Trailer Connector, part number 118605.Here's what our wiring's going to look like once we have it fully installed. It is going to give us a four pole flat trailer connector, and it is going to stay on the outside of the vehicle at all times, which is going to be nice because it's going to be right here next to our hitch whenever we're ready to tow. Now, it's going to provide us with taillights, turn signals, and brake lights to make sure that everybody behind us knows that we're towing a trailer and we can stay within the law.Something you're going to like about this wiring is the fact that it's going to have a built in dust cover that's not going to come off, so we don't have to worry about losing it. We can actually use it to not only protect our connector, but also attach it to our hitch so our wiring's not just going to be hanging down dangling. Now that we've seen what it looks like and the final result, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin our installation, we're going to open up our rear hatch, and we're going to need to remove our taillights. Now, each one of our taillights is going to have two fasteners holding it in place, and we're going to need to grab a T30 torques bit to remove them.

Once you have those bolts removed, you're going to give your taillight a little bit of a wiggle side to side, but not too much because there's some alignment pins in there and you don't want them to break. You're going to want to wiggle it a little bit just enough to get your hand behind the taillight, and you're going to want to pull straight back. There's going to be a small tab on the top of our connector here. You're going to want to push in on that tab, which takes some of the tension off of the clip, and we'll be able to release it and pull it off. We're going to go ahead and do that for the other side as well.We're going to start on our driver's side, so you're going to want to grab the yellow and white T connector, and we're going to notice that our connectors are going to be the same as the one on our car, and a male end one.

Now we're going to plug the male into the one on our car, and then the other female is going to plug into our taillight. Before we plug it in though, I'm going to put a little bit of dielectric grease inside of our connector, and that's just going to help keep out the moisture buildup and hopefully keep corrosion from starting inside.Let's plug in our connector and make sure it locks into place. For the rest of our harness, we're going to need to start feeding the rest of the wires down between the bumper and the body here. I did find it easiest if you do one at a time, so we'll start with our green wire and feed it down until we can grab it below, underneath down at the bottom of our bumper. With that one through, we can go ahead and start passing our four pole flat wiring through as well.Now, we're going to have a white wire with a ring terminal and a black wire with the bare end on it.

Now the black wire is going to be for our charge line, which is going to have to go up to our battery. They do provide us with a length of wire to run it up there, and a butt connector to connect them together. Now, I'm going to be replacing this butt connector with a heat shrink butt connector to give it a little bit more protection and hopefully keep corrosion from building up inside.I'm just going to slide it over our bare wire and we're going to crimp it in place. Then we can take the other end of our charge line, the bare wire, slide it into the other end of the butt connector, and crimp it down. Now, since it is a heat shrink connector I'm going to be using a heat gun to shrink it down, but just want to mention if you are using an open flame such as a torch or a lighter, you want to be extra careful not to burn the wire or the connector itself.

With our wire connected, we're going to go ahead and drop down that black wire as well until we can reach it at the bottom and pull the rest of the slack out. You're going to want to pull all the slack out until you have all the cable down at the bottom.Now we're going to take our converter box and our ground wire and pass it down as far as we can into the bumper area, but making sure that we leave enough slack so we can still plug in our taillight. Before we connect our light, again I'm just going to put a little bit of dielectric grease in my connector, hopefully protecting it from corrosion buildup. We can just grab our light and plug it in. Just want to make sure it locks into place, then we can put our taillight back into position.My converter box and all my wires are over here on the driver's side. We're going to need to mount our converter box, and we got a couple different options with how we're going to do that. We have a tab with a hole in the top, and we can either zip tie it to something or we can take the provided double sided tape and stick it to a flat surface. I'm actually going to take the double sided tape, I'm going to take the backing off, press it firmly onto the converter box. I'm going to take the other side of the backing off, and I'm going to stick it right to this flat surface right here. You're going to want to push firmly to make sure it adheres, be out of the way and away from our exhaust far enough that it won't get too hot.Now for our white wire, that's going to be our ground. I'm actually going to take the provided self tapping screw, and I'm going to drill it right into the frame here, and I'm going to be using a 1/4 inch nut driver. Now, we're going to need to get our green wire with the T connector over to the passenger side, and our four pole flat trailer connector to the center by our hitch. Just want to be mindful of where the exhaust is, because you don't want our wires to get hot or burned, so I'm going to go ahead and run these, and I'll show you how I got them there.I got my green wire over to the passenger side, and I did have to use a pull wire to get everything behind the bumper structure here, and take out a few screws. Right behind our fascia here we have the bumper support structure, which I took these four screws out which allowed me just enough flexibility to pull this away enough so I can get my pull wire and my wires back behind it. I took my air line tube and I passed behind that panel, bringing it out on the other side. Then I taped my connector to my pull wire and I just pulled everything through. Then I did the same thing with my four pole flat wiring, except I had it come down right where my hitch was so I wouldn't have to worry about not having enough wire.Since my pull wire's still attached to my connector, I'm actually going to feed this up until it comes out the top of the taillight socket up there, and we can go up top and pull our pull wire through, pulling up the connector. We can come up top and start pulling our connector up. Just want to be careful, kind of help guide it up, because you don't want to have to refish the connector out in case you drop it.I'm going to go ahead and take the tape off and we can start making our connections. I'm going to pull all the excess wire up. I'm actually going to zip tie it to the factory wiring here, where I don't have to worry about any slack falling back down, touching the exhaust. I'd rather have the excess slack up high than have it down low. Put a little dielectric grease in our connector, and we can start plugging it up. Now we can put our taillight back in place.We're going to have to run this black wire up to our battery. Everybody's going to do it a little bit different, just want to be mindful of where your exhaust is, any heat sources, or any moving parts like the steering or suspension components. I'm going to go ahead and route this, and I'll show you how I did it. I ran my wire over my rear axle and over the subframe, came down and went into this cover here, followed it along, zip tying it along the way. Then finally, I had my wire come out at the end of the cover right here. We're going to go up to the top of the engine so we can use our pull wire to pull that wire up.Our wire's going to have to come up to our positive battery post, so you can take your pull wire, whatever you're using, and you're going to want to feed it down through the engine bay so it can meet up with that wire down below. Some air line tube came down right here. Just going to take my wire, I'm going to push it inside my air line tube, and then put a little bit of electrical tape so we don't have to worry about dropping it when I start pulling it up. We can move up to the engine bay, start pulling it through.Once we get it up here you're going to want to pull all the slack out. It's never a bad idea to go ahead and take a peek underneath to make sure it didn't get stuck or caught, and have a wad underneath that'll get caught when you start driving down the road. Then go ahead and put a zip tie around this factory harness here, not only to keep my wire there, but also to prevent it from falling back down, keeping the tension on it so it's not going to hit anything it doesn't need to.Our kit comes with a fuse holder with one continuous wire and a loop. I'm going to go ahead and cut it in half and strip back both ends. On one end, we're going to take another one of our butt connectors and crimp it into place. We're going to estimate about how much wire we're going to need, maybe giving yourself a little bit of extra, and we're going to cut our black wire, strip it back, and put it into the other end of our butt connector. On the other end of our fuse holder we'll grab our ring terminal, going to slide it over our bare wire and crimp it down. We'll want to grab a 10 millimeter socket so we can remove the nut that's on top of our positive battery post. When we remove the nut, place the ring terminal over the post, and then reinstall that nut.With all of our connections made, we can grab our 15 amp fuse, put it into our fuse holder, and put the dust cover in place. Now would be a good time to go ahead and clean up all your wires and take some time just to make it look nice, and put any bolts or nuts back that we took off earlier to run our wires. The final thing we need to do is go ahead and test our wiring. I'm going to go ahead and plug in my four pole tester. I'm going to grab an extra set of hands so I can verify that all the lights are working properly. Now, if you need a four pole tester, you can pick one up on our website using part number I26.All right, you turn on the headlights please. Looks good. Left turn signal, good. Right turn signal. Brakes, and finally the brakes and both turn signals if you would, please. All right, it looks like everything looks good and we're ready to hit the road. That'll finish up your look at the Tekonsha T1 Vehicle Wiring Harness with Four Pole Flat Trailer Connector, part number 118605 on our 2017 Jeep Cherokee.

Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Kathleen M
Video by:
Kathleen M
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C

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