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Hopkins Tail Light Wiring Kit Installation - 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

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How to Install the Hopkins Tail Light Wiring Kit on a 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited


Today on our 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, we'll be having a look at and installing the Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles, part number HM56200. Here's what our wiring looks like installed. A nice 4-pole flat here in the front of our vehicle. With this applied dust cover, this will treat our Jeep like a trailer when it's towed behind our RV, giving us our, as required by law, lighting that we need. We'll have our turn signals, our lights, and our brake lights that we need in order to safely tow our vehicle. Now, what I really like about this kit compared to other kits on the market is that it's direct plug and play. There is no cutting, no splicing of your factory wiring; no drilling of holes in your tail light assemblies in order to add a separate bulb and socket. This will utilize factory style connectors plugged in line with your tail lights to the vehicle's wiring harness, has diodes built into it so there is no voltage being back-fed into your vehicle's sensitive electrical systems, and it utilizes the factory bulbs so it looks just like stock while it's rolling down the road. Now that we've going over some features of our Hopkins plug and play wiring kit, we'll show you how to get it installed. First thing we need to do in order to begin our installation is remove our tail light assemblies.

To do that, we have two screws, the inside edge one on both tail light assemblies. They're Phillips. Then we'll just grab a tail light assembly, pull it out. Okay, on our driver's side, we find two connectors. We have one that has wires that go to our light bulbs right here. The other one here, you'll only have this if your vehicle has the factory tow package with the wiring.

We'll disconnect this one by pushing on the tab and disconnecting. We'll head on over to the passenger's side and we'll show you which connector to disconnect there now, too. We repeated the same process in order to remove our tail light assembly on the passenger's side. We'll only find one connector here, so push on the tab again, separate the wiring, and we'll set this tail light assembly aside. Now we'll put some dielectric grease, which we have available on our website. Our kit does come with some, but in case you need more, we have some available. Put it on a connector here on our tail light on our driver's side, plug in our harness, put some dielectric grease on our harness as well.

We'll plug in the connector. Okay, now we'll take our 4-pole flat and our T-connector over here for our passenger side and we'll reach down inside. Right next to our filler neck, there's a hole where you can feed all these wires on through and they'll come out the bottom. Okay, so those are the wires for our passenger's side going on down through, and here come our 4-pole flat. All right, here's our wires here. We'll just pull them on down and get the slack out. Okay, now we'll take our converter box here and our double sided tape, stick it on the back side, peel off the other end, and we'll place this on the inside here.

Perfect. With that securely mounted, we can now reinstall our tail light assembly on this side. Okay now, on our passenger's side tail light assembly area, you'll find a bunch of spray-in foam insulation that we need to remove, so you can just grab ahold of it and pull it on out. It'll come out piece by piece. Now that we have the foam insulation removed, we can see a black plastic triangle piece that was covered up by it. We can now reach down, pull it up, and remove it. All right, now our connector for our passenger's side, we routed over our frame here, over our heat shield for our exhaust. This'll protect the wires. Goes over a frame again and here's our hole for that panel that we removed. We'll take our wires and our connector and stick them inside that hole. With our wires stuck inside that hole now, we'll pull all the slack up inside that compartment. Put some dielectric grease in our connector here and connect it to the factory wiring. Now we'll take some cutters and we're going to cut a notch here in the corner, and this is on that panel that we removed earlier. We'll feed our wires right through this notch here in the corner and reinstall the panel. All right, here's what our panel looks like once we have it clipped back in place with our wires routed through. We went ahead and zip-tied up our excess wiring right here so it's not dangling and rattling around. Now we'll make our final connection to our passenger's side tail light. We'll just push the tail light back in place, make sure all of our wires go on the inside. We went ahead and routed our 4-pole flat wiring to the front of our vehicle, came down here. We have it secured to this wiring harness with the zip-tie right in this area. After we have our wires secured to that wiring harness, we brought it above our frame here, keeping away from our exhaust and any moving parts, secured to the wiring harness here. We secured it to a few brackets that hold our brake lines in place, went above our cross member, secured it along the way here, keeping as far away from the exhaust as possible, above another cross member. Now our brake lines are secured and wrapped with this insulation here which resists heat, so we wrapped our wire on the back side of that, secured it with zip-ties. We brought it up into our engine bay for a towed vehicle braking system later on. Comes back down here, kept it away from our suspension and steering and secured with a zip-tie here. It comes out through a hole in our rock shield here that we needed to put in place for the break away switch mounting port on our face plate. You see where our wire ends up dangling. Right here, you see our ground wire. We're going to attach this to our vehicle's frame here with the provided self-tapping screw. Since this is Hopkins wiring and we're installing it onto the front of a Roadmaster base plate, our adapter bracket here doesn't fit on our prongs, but what we did is we used a couple of zip-ties, secure it to the prongs and in the base plate, giving us a nice solid mount for our 4-pole flat. Now we're going to be using a Tow Doctor Trailer Tester in order to test our wiring that we just installed, make sure it works properly. We have these available on our website if you'd like to purchase one. You can also just hook up to your RV and test it that way, too. We'll start by running our right brake light. As we can see, it's working. We'll do our left brake light now. We can see it's working as well. Now we'll do our tail lights and those are working, too. That completes our look at and installation of the Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles, part number HM56200 on our 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.


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