Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2017 Mazda CX-5

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How to Install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2017 Mazda CX-5

Today, on our 2017 Mazda CX-5, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector, part number 118746.So, here's what our wiring's going to look like once we have it installed. It's going to provide us with a 4-pole flat trailer connector, so we all the required lights to get down the road safely. Like, our taillights, brake lights and our turn signals.Whenever we want to use it, we can just simply drop it out the rear hatch and plug it up to our trailer. Whenever we want to store it, we can open up our hatch and we can store it underneath the cargo area by our spare tire.Whenever we do want to use it, you just want to make sure you stay away from the latch mechanism itself, and the weather stripping is going to provide enough cushion to where it won't damage the wire.Our wiring kit is custom designed for our Mazda. We're not going to have to cut or splice any of our factory wires. We're just going to have a simple T-connector that's going to go in-line with our factory taillights.

Our wiring kit is going to have a powered convertor box, which is going to reduce the amount of strain put on our taillights, and protect our vehicle's wiring, in case there are any problems that may arise on the trailer end, and prevent any kind of back feed.The wiring is going to be fuse-protected, and the maximum amperage for our stop and turn signals is going to be 5 amps, and the maximum amperage for our taillights is going to be 7.5 amps.Our wiring is going to work with adapters if you need go from a 4 to a 5, 6, or 7-way, and all of those are going to be sold separately and available here at etrailer.com.Now that we've seen our wiring and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed. To begin our installation, we're going to start at the rear hatch and we're going to want to pull all of the floor coverings out. So, we're actually just going to lift this up, and if we can keep it out of the way, we don't have to pull it out all the way.Or, we can lift up and pull that panel out all the way. Then, we can pull out the foam inserts with our spare tire tools in them, as well. Then, on each side we're going to have these covers.

You can go ahead and pull each of those out as well. At the very back here, we're going to have our threshold. There is going to be a couple of push-pins, one on each end of it.Ours are missing, but you just want to make sure you pull those out before you pull the threshold out all the way. Right at the latch mechanism, we're going to pop that center piece out. You can just take a flathead screwdriver, and you want to come underneath it, so we can get it out.

We'll pull it out and set it aside.Then, we can start at one corner of our threshold and we're going to pull up, and that's going to release the clips going along, and we'll just work our way across, until we get to the other side. We'll set our threshold aside.Now, underneath the threshold on each side we're going to have a push-pin that's connected to our side panel here. So, we'll take a small flat-blade screwdriver, and you're going to want to pop up the center section first. That's going to take the tension off of the clip, and then we can pull the rest of it out.You want to pull both of these out, one on each side. Now, just on the inside of our cargo area on the edges, we're going to have a tie-down hook.

You want to take a flat-blade screwdriver, and we're going to pop open the cover, and that will expose a bolt that's holding it in place.We can grab a ten millimeter socket and pull that bolt out. Then, we'll pull out the hook. We'll do the same on the other side. Now, if we move toward the front of our Mazda, we're going to have another tie-down hook on each side. So, we'll flip it open and we'll find another bolt holding it in place.Take that ten millimeter socket, and we'll pull it out. We're going to want to start out at the bottom of our panel here, and we're going to start pulling away. You can use a flat trim panel tool, it may help. We're just going to work our way up, finding the clips that are holding it in place, until we can separate the panel from the side of the body here.We're going to want to pull it far enough away that we can get access to the wires behind our taillight. Since we're on the driver side, we're going to start with our T-connector that has the yellow wire attached to it. We're going to be looking for a connector behind there that looks like this.So, if we come up, we're going to have a connector right here that's going to be attaching our two wires. At the bottom, there's going to be a small tab. We're going to push in on that tab. It may be a little difficult, so you may want to use a screwdriver to push in on that tab. We'll come to the bottom. We're going to push in, and we'll be able to separate our two connectors.We're simply going to plug our T-connector in-line. Make sure it locks into place, and we'll plug the other one in to the other side. You want to make sure it locks into place.Now, we can grab our T-connector that has the green and red wire on it, and we're going to route it along the back of the threshold here, and go over to the passenger side and hook it up the same way.Now, my red and green wire, I just secure it along the edge here, along the threshold, to some existing wiring. That should leave us with two more wires coming out of our convertor box. We'll have a white wire with a ring terminal, and a black wire. Now, the black wire is going to need to have a connection to the battery.So, we're going to take one of the butt connectors in our kit and slide it over the stripped end, and we'll crimp it in place. So, now we're going to take the length of wire they provide in our kit, we'll strip back the end of it, and we'll put it into the other end of our butt connector.We can crimp it in place, and then we'll need to find a spot to mount our ground. Now, fortunately for us, if we look back here, we're going to have a factory ground right against the side here. So, we're not going to have to drill any new holes.We can grab a ten millimeter socket, and we can pull that bolt out. Slide the bolt through the ring terminal, and we can reinstall it. You just want to make sure that you put any other grounds back in place if they came off.Now, we're going to need to find a spot to mount of convertor box. We have a couple of different options of how we can use the eyelet at the top to zip tie it to something, or we can use the included double-sided foam tape. Let's take the back off it off. We'll stick it directly to the box. We can take the other side of the backing off, and we'll find a nice flat spot that's out of the way, and stick it directly to it.So, I'll just put my box right next to the ground here, against the side of the body. Now, the black wire that's going to have to run to the battery, we can either run it through the inside of our vehicle, or we can go to the outside and run it underneath. If we look right by where our convertor box is, we're going to have two grommets right next to each other. One that's already going to have some existing wiring going through, and then a small plug.So, I'm just going to pull this small plug out, and we'll hold onto it, and we can run our power wire directly to the bottom of the vehicle here. You just want to make sure you feed all of the slack down, and we get all of that excess wire down to the bottom.Now, once you have the wire going through, you can cut a slit in the grommet towards the center, so the wire can fit through it, and we can put the plug back in place. It's always a good idea to seal it up. So, I'm going to take some silicone to make sure we don't have kind of leaks coming back into our vehicle.With all of our connections made back here, we can start putting all of our panels back in place. Just want to make sure you take your 4-pole, and you bring it to the center for now.So, our wire underneath, we are going to have to run up to the battery. It came out right on the bottom side, and we're going to run this wire all the way up to the positive post on our battery. Just want to stay away from any extreme heat sources, like the exhaust, or any moving parts like our steering or suspension that may damage the wire.So, I'll go ahead and run this, and I'll show you how I routed it. So, my wire, I went over the rear axle here. Once I got over the rear axle, I came down right by the fuel tank. I actually ran it underneath this cover, so it'll be protected and it'll keep it secure, going all the way along up to the front, until I had it come out right here.Now, I went ahead and ran an airline tube from the top of the engine compartment down, so we could bring our wire up. If you don't have an airline tube, you can use a coat hanger or whatever you have available, just so that we can get from the top coming down.You want to make sure you use the same precaution, staying away from any heat sources or any sharp objects that might damage the wire. I'm going to attach my wire to my airline tube. Just use some electrical tape. We don't have to worry about dropping it once I go up top and start pulling everything through.Now, I'm just going to pull my airline tube up. You want to make sure you pull all of the excess wire up, and that it didn't get wadded up underneath. So that when we start driving down the road, we don't have to worry about it getting caught.So now that we have our wire up to our battery, we're going to have to fuse holder in place. Now, it's going to be one continuous wire, so we'll just take a pair of cutters and we're going to cut it in half and strip back both ends.On one end, take another butt connector, and we'll crimp it in place. On the other end, we're going to take the ring terminal that comes in our kit and crimp it on. Our ring terminal is going to go to the positive post on our battery. I'm just going to estimate about how much wire we're going to need, and we can cut our black wire and strip back the end of it, put it in the other end of our butt connector.You can lift up the cover on the positive post on our battery, and we're going to have a nut right there that we should be able to remove and put our ring terminal in place. So, we can take a twelve millimeter socket and loosen up the nut, and slide our ring terminal over.Then, we're going to replace the nut and tighten it down. Then, we can take our included fuse, put it in the fuse holder, close the lid, and we can test our wires to make sure everything is working properly.So, I went ahead and plugged in my 4-pole tester. If you need one of these, you can pick one up here at etrailer.com using part number I26. If I turn on my headlights, we can see that my taillight function is working, as well as the left turn signal, the right turn signal and my brakes.All we have left to do now is hook up to our trailer and hit the road. That'll finish up your look at the Tekonsha Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector, part number 118746 on our 2017 Mazda CX-5.

Questions and Comments about this Video

Charlie K.

you should use weather proof butt connectors and ring terminals to prevent problems in a few years,especially in areas that use salt in the winter 55689

Reply from Rachael H.

Thanks for your helpful recommendation. Our installers were using the components that are included in the wiring kit 48899

Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Chris R
Installed by:
Cole B
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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