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Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2013 Dodge Durango

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2013 Dodge Durango


Today on our 2013 Dodge Durango we will be installing the T-One Vehicle Wire Harness with a 4-pole flat trailer connector. Part number 118552. We'll start by gaining access to the rear of our vehicle. We'll need to remove these push fasteners. And then, tail light. With the push pins removed, we go ahead and push from the back of the tail light towards the rear of the vehicle to remove it.

Take special caution not to break off our guide pins. Go ahead and remove the wiring harness from the bulb socket, pull that red tab back. Pull the red tab back, press down on the top, and slide the socket out of place. We will do that for the other bulb and for the other tail light assembly. With the tail light removed, we're going to take this old air line tubing and fish it down through the bumper so we can pull our wiring harness up to make our connections with the factory wiring harness. Now, you don't necessarily have to use air line tubing, it could be a piece of stiff wire or an old wire coat hanger to use to feed the wire up through inaudible 00:01:28.

Now we tape our wire connector to the air line tubing we ran down through the bumper. In this way, we can just pull that wire back up and make our connections to our tail light. We go ahead and take the new end of the wiring harness and plug it in to the factory wiring harness for the tail light. Once it's snapped in place, we'll resecure with the red tab on top. With our wiring complete here on the driver side, resecure the connections for our light bulbs, make sure the access wiring is inaudible 00:02:22 back down on the bumper, and we'll slide our tail light back into place. With the tail light back in place on the driver side, we'll add the two push pin fasteners back in.

This is the general area that we're going to mount the box to. Once we find the location we want to use, we're going to take some rubbing alcohol, clean the area up. Really, any nice flat surface will work and this will just work for the situation. We have a sheet metal here we can ground to. And to mount the box, we're going to use this double-sided adhesive that came with the kit. It's pressure-sensitive, so once you set it up there, make sure it's pressed on there well.

You want your wires to be facing down. With the box mounted, we'll take the included self-tapping 00:03:34 screw and mount our ground. We'll now take the connectors for the passenger side tail light and run them across the vehicle. We want to go up and over the bumper structure back here in the back. It's going to keep it up off the hitch and it's going to help us clear the exhaust. We want to keep the wires as far away from the exhaust as possible. To clear the first structure, pull the excess wire out and then run across through the next. This is the other side of the bumper structure over on the passenger side. We want to make sure you get the wires up and over it so it keeps it off the exhaust. Now, I'm going to be running another piece of air line tubing like I did on the driver side. I'm going to tape the connector to this and pull it up through the bumper to the tail light to make our connections. With the wiring harness pulled up to the passenger side, we'll go ahead and make our connection. Remember to secure those red tabs. Now, I do want to pull a little bit of the slack up just to make sure it doesn't fall down on top of the exhaust. We'll clean that up. We'll zip tie it to the factory harness and tape that back down inside the fender. All the connections back in place, we can resecure our tail light. Now we take our 4-pole connector, run it back up over the bumper structure like we've done with the green wire and down to our hitch 00:06:06. To keep this in place, put the cap on the 4-pole connector and we'll resecure all the excess wire back up around that bumper structure. Now we take the black wire that was included with the kit and this will be our 12-volt power wire that we need to run up to the battery. We'll start by stripping the end of the wire taping 00:06:45 one of the included wire connectors and we'll crimp it in place. We will then go to the red wire off the box we mounted earlier and crimp that in place. I will tape the electrical tape and wrap the electrical connection and then we'll add it securely and to help keep the connection dry. Now with the connections made, we need to run this wire to the front of the vehicle up into the engine compartment. We say 00:07:20 to make sure when we run it, we stay away from any moving parts or anything that might get hot and damage the wire. For our connection point on the black box, we ran our wire following the factory wiring harness all the way up behind the heat shield and out on the other side of the frame right here. From here, we're going to pull up through the fender well to a grommet via brake 00:07:55 master cylinder and we'll feed the wire 00:07:59 into the engine compartment bay up the brake master cylinder. We'll spent all the slack out of the wire. We'll run it between the weather stripping here and over to our positive battery terminal. Now we are going to add a fuse holder in line with the wire we ran up here into the battery terminal. You can see the wire is molded on both sides, so we'll need to cut it here down here in the middle. We'll go ahead and strip back the edges out and we'll strip back the edge of the power wire inaudible 00:08:37. We're going to crimp one end of our fuse block into the other end of the power wire. After that connection has been made, say the ring 00:08:58 terminal. We place it on the other end and crimp it in place. With all the wire connectors in place, we'll go ahead and tape up the connections for a little added security. This is the power source we'll be going to. It is a link directly to the battery. We'll then place the terminal on the positive battery post and put the hardware back in place. With our connection made, pop the cover back on, grab the fuse, and we'll clean up the wires. Pull the excess tight 00:09:54, grab one of our wire ties, slide it through the bottom of the fuse holder around the access wire and the factory wiring harness. With the fuse block secure, all that's left is to place the fuse into the holder and close the cover. Now all we need to do is test the wiring on our connector and we'll start by taking our ground clamp and attaching it to our bare terminal here which is the ground. We'll start with the running 00:10:42 lights. Then the brake lights. The left side blinker and the right side blinker. I like that, all our wiring is working. That will conclude today's installation of the T-One vehicle wiring harness with the 4-pole flat trailer connector, part number 118552 on our 2013 Dodge Durango. .


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