Truck Bed Cargo Camera Installation - 2017 Ford F-250 Super Duty

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How to Install a Truck Bed Cargo Camera on a 2017 Ford F-250 Super Duty


Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Ford F250 Super Duty, we're going to be installing a truck bed cargo camera, part number 3460001. This camera's going to give you an alternate view when backing up behind you. So if you've got a trailer behind you, the one that's currently installed, it's pointed down at your hitch and will likely be blocked by your trailer. Well with the flick of a button, you can switch to your other view, which is going to give you a more wide birds eye type of view so you can see more around you and also more of your trailer.Now there is a switch that comes included with your kit, however, we decided to opt ours to install into one of the factory auxiliary switches. So on our Super Duty here, this is where your factory camera's going to be located. And our camera as you can see is underneath of our third brake lamp there.

The camera housing's an entire bezel that's going to mount behind your factory third brake lamp. And it provides you with a nice nuzzled and factory looking camera just below it.Now if you're comparing this to other types of factory mounted backup cameras. What's really stands out about this one, is the way that it taps into your factory wiring, so that way it's very clean and factory feel once you're done. And those other ones, even the wireless ones don't seem to operate as well. This one being hardwired in is going to be reliable every time.And one of the main features that this could be used for is hooking up to a fifth wheel or gooseneck.

You have to lower your tailgate typically when backing up to one of those. And when you do that, that camera that's back there in the tailgate's aiming straight at the ground. With the flick of a button, you can now see in your bed and make a nice quick easy connection with no worries of having any contact with your trailer.We'll begin by removing our center high mounted stop lamp. There's four screws that hold this in. You're going to remove those with a T15 Torx socket.

You can now pull your assembly off. We're going to unplug it from the back by releasing the small tabs. And then we'll use our trim panel remover tool to separate push pin from our third brake light assembly. Just stick it between there and gently pry the push pin out of your brake lamp out of your camera. We'll now set our light aside.Now in order to get our camera bezel to fit, our Ford factory third brake lamp assembly we are going to have to make some modifications to it.

We'll now have to cut some of the sections out here in order for it to clear our LED section. We've already marked the areas we're going to need to cut out. We're just going to use a pair of tin snips to do that. Now that you've notched it out, we can set it back on there and verify that it fits nice and flush. As you can see, it sits down all the way around now.Your wiring for your camera's going to poke up through that small notch there. So that's going to be in the center. We're then going to take our wiring and feed it down the center here and we'll just set this up on top of here for now. And we need to feed this to the inside. After you've got some of it fed inside, it's probably best off to go inside the vehicle and continue pulling it through.You'll now want to reach up above your headliner here, feel for your wiring. Once you find it, we're going to pull it down. We'll now feed it in. We'll now reinstall our lamp assembly. Now there is foam strips that come with the kit. However, it does recommend that you use butyl tape especially on Ford vehicle as Ford also recommends that when resealing your third brake lamp you should use butyl tape. So we got some butyl tape here. We're going to be placing that around the inner edge. Once you've got the outer perimeter covered in your butyl tape, you can reinstall your third brake lamp assembly. Make sure that you plug your connector back in. And you don't want to press too hard when doing this because you don't want the butyl tape to stick just yet.Now you will need to get some larger screws to reinstall your assembly here. You'll need roughly a two inch length screw in order for it to go through your factory light assembly and the new camera extension that goes behind it. You can pick these up at your local hardware store. Now you don't want to over tighten those as it can crack the plastic. You just want it to be snug, so that way it's squeezing out that butyl tape. We'll then go back and clean all this up with a little razor knife just to make it look nicer.Now we're going to take the wiring we have here and we're going to work it along the headliner, all the way up to the front of the vehicle. Now when you're out of wiring, you have an extension harness that comes with your kit. Just go ahead and plug those together. They'll only fit one way and then continue routing your wiring towards the front. And we're just going to continue running that wire all the way down til you got it in your kick panel here. Just following right along the same path we did going up. You may need to pull your weather stripping back in a few spots. This just pulls off and out. That way you can tuck that wire in a little bit more securely. Then when you're done, you just press it right back into place.Now we're going to need to access the connector for our screen. To do that, we're going to have to pop off the panel here. So just take a trim panel tool, stick it between the wedge there and just start working it down. You'll have to pop up a couple of spots here and there. Just work the wedge until it gets to a stiff spot. And once it gets too hard pushing it, that's when you're going to want to give it a little twist, it'll pop out.We'll now need to remove the two screws located here on each side of the speaker with a seven millimeter socket. Now we can pop up our compartment tray here. There are some more clips here, so you want to run that panel tool down along there. And we'll set this aside after we disconnect our speaker. Hold the release tab there and pull it out. Now remove the two screws that hold in your control panel here.The tray that we just removed will give us access to our screen. We'll disconnect the connector here on the back of our screen. Then you're going to take the gray arm here and this is going to fold towards the passenger side. Up on top if you feel between the gray cross shaft here and the open area here, there's going to be a little tab. You want to push in on that while pulling that then disconnect it.We're now going to need a fish wire to run some wiring from this compartment here down to our driver side kick panel over here, as we're going to need power and ground to go to our camera assembly. And we're also going to want some sort of ignition power for our switch for our camera. We're going to be running ours directly to the factory auxiliary switches. But you could also use the switch that comes with it, which looks a little something like this. We're going to be cutting ours off. But if you don't have this option, you could mount this wherever you'd like and there would be your on off switch. We've got our hose ran down.Next we're going to need to run some wire from our battery or wherever else you're going to be getting power from. This could be an accessory ignition fuse, whichever where you want to get it from up to there. So we're going to be getting ours from our auxiliary switches, those are on the outside. So we're going to be passing through a grommet right here in the lower left kick panel area out to get to our switches. You will need some additional wire to do this. You can pick some up here at etrailer.com with part number 16-1-1.We'll be going through the grommet right here. So you could push that grommet in and then push your wire through. We're using a pull wire just like we did up there just because it's easier to get wires to go through difficult to reach areas. And it's going to come out of the grommet located here next to your break booster. Just pull that up and just hope we can pull wires back and forth really easily by just taping it to that pull wire.We'll then tape our extra wire to our pull wire. And pull it and here's your wire. Go ahead and cut it off and make your connection to wherever your power source is. Ours is going to be to the factory auxiliary switch points, which are located right here. We're connecting ours to auxiliary switch one in there, which is going to be the brown and green wire here. So we're going to cut off the end here. Strip back the wire that we ran in, as well as our auxiliary wire here. Then we'll crimp them together using a yellow heat shrink butt connector. We're using a heat shrink since it does live outside the vehicle. This way it'll help prevent moisture and corrosion from entering it. You can pick up some of these butt connectors here at etrailer.com.We'll then use our heat gun to shrink down our butt connector. Now we'll need to route our wiring over towards the pull wire that we ran from our audio system down. So we're going to need both the power wire we disconnected and the camera wire that we previously ran along our headliner. So we just tucked our wires along the carpet there to get them over to the center here. We'll now take the same wires. We're going to use the pull wire here to get them up to where our radio system is. Go ahead and pull them up. Now if you get caught, you might have to kind of go back and forth here freeing up from things you caught on since it is a pretty fat hunk of stuff you're trying to move.And once we get it pulled up, we'll want to pull up kind of that slack because we'll store it up here underneath our tray. And we can go ahead and disconnect it from our pull wire. We'll now make our connections. So in your kit you're going to have a small jumper harness here. We're going to pull the male yellow connector into the female yellow that we ran up. We're going to plug the female power connector to the male power connector. The other ends here, we'll be hooking these to power and ground. But before we run our power and ground, we're going to hook up the rest of our harness. We've got another harness here that we'll plug the other end of the yellow connector into. And on this harness here, you will have a jumper harness. This is going to go in between our screen and this is that switch.Reach down in here and find the connector we disconnected from our screen and plug that into your harness. Then plug the other end of your harness back into your screen. We'll now need to connect our power and ground. So for our ground wire what we're going to do is we're going to use some of the extra wire that we've run up from our power wire here because we don't really need this much length. So we'll trim off some of that excess. We're going to use this excess by stripping back both ends. Connecting a ring terminal to one end.Then we'll use a self tapping screw to run it into the feel brace that runs across right here. We're then going to connect the black wire from our small jumper harness to the ground wire that we just ran and used that ring terminal. So if you we're using the switch that comes with it, you connect your positive power here. Since we're not going to be using the switch that comes with it, we're actually going to cut this off here. We don't need our switch since we're running ours to a factory switch. We're going to strip back the battery positive wire that we ran in. We're going to use a yellow butt connector to crimp that onto both of the positive wires that's going to go to our system. You can pick up some blue and yellow butt connectors here at etrailer.com.Then we're going to strip back the end of that wire that we just cut off from our switch. And connect that to the other end of our battery positive here. Then we'll put those wires in the connector there, crimp those down. And we're ready to test our system out.Now we've got our vehicle on. We've got our entertainment system pulled up here. If we pull it back into reverse, you can see our factory camera there. We'll flick the switch and there is our newly mounted camera where our third brake light is. And you can just switch back and forth. So you can choose the best view that works for you.Now we can take our excess wire and clean everything up. So we're just going to coil all these up and zip tie them together. Bundle all these together, zip tie it down. Then we can just tuck that back in there, that'll be fine. Plug our speaker in. This will just install in reverse order of how we took it apart. That'll snap back together. We'll install the two screws that we removed. Speaker cover just snaps back into place. Next you just want to reinstall your grommet. I took a razor knife and I just cut a slit in it for our wire to pass through and then sealed it up with some black silicone. If you need some black silicone, you can also pick that up here at etrailer.com. And that completes our installation of the truck bed cargo camera on our 2017 Ford F250 Super Duty.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Mickey S.

How do I hook the camera up to work when not in backup mode. A monitoring camera.

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Chris R.

For observation you'll want to hook the power wire up to a constant power source. A popular route is to use the running lights circuit (instead of the reverse light circuit).

Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Hayden R
Installed by:
Hayden R
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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