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Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly Installation

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How to Install the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly

Today we're gonna take a look at the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assemblies.Now, there are several reasons why someone would want to change the hubs on their trailer. Either age, they're getting very old, the trailer's been sitting for a long time, moisture got inside, caused corrosion that way. Maybe the brake assembly itself locked up on you, it overheated that drum and we've got hot spots or cracking in it. Or you can have these machines where it can turn the drums, and you've just had it done so much that it's expanded too far, so where it's beyond the specification.Now, these drums are going work for 12-inch by two-inch brake assemblies. They're going be from the 52-hundred- up to the 7,000-pound axle, each one, and bearing kits rated for 35 hundred pounds. So a total of 7,000.Now, Dexter provides us with just about everything we're going to need.

We've got new lug nuts for our half-inch wheel studs. You got the new dust cap here and the easy-lube plug. Also, going to have two new bearings, inner and outer. And you're going to have your seal. So all in all, this is a way to completely replace all of these components, get it right back to factory fresh, and you'll have no problems with it heading down the road.Something else that I like, it's going to come with the eight lug nuts that we need, so we're not going to have to worry about our old ones if those we're cross threaded, if we had any kind of issues.

Everything's going to be fresh.Now, these offer heavy-duty iron construction. As you're putting them on, you can feel the weight and the density of them. And they're going to be designed to work with both the electric or hydraulic braking systems. And, as we can see right here, these are made right here in the United States.Now, to begin our replacement process, we're going to need to gather a few simple tools. Basically, we'll want a dead-blow hammer, a pair of channel locks, and needle-nose pliers.

These are really all we're going to need to get this replacement done.The first thing we need to do is get rid of our grease cap here on the end. Generally, we're going to tap outward. You can see that gap staring to increase. It'll pop off.Once that's out of the way, we've got a Cotter pin located right here. Get our Cotter pin out of there.Now, with our channel locks, we need to get ahold of this large nut here and get it removed.Now, as we take this apart, we want to salvage this washer right here.

This is our, kind of our thrust bearing there. And that's the only thing that doesn't come with our new drum assembly. We got new lug nuts, we've got a new cap, new bearings, new seals. This is that one component we want to be sure to hang on to when we put it back together.Now, we're just going to start working our hub assembly off. You see that old bearing. We're going to get rid of that.The brakes are kind of hanging up a little bit. We're going to be replacing those too, so I'm not too worried about them. So I'm just kind of using a pry bar just to get them worked off of here. And we'll slide it off.Now, as you can see, we've got all the grease off that spindle, got rid of all the old stuff. And this is our time to inspect it.We need to ensure, basically, that three main areas are in good shape. You got this ara here. This is going to be where the inner bearing rides. Nice and smooth, no issues there. Same thing out here, where our outer bearing goes.And then right in here on this wider area, you can see where it's real shiny there, that's where our seal is going to ride as it goes around. So we're just going to kind of rub our finger around there and make sure there's no nicks or dents or scratches or anything like that. What happens if we have that here is we fill this with grease, it's going to expand into our brakes, and that's not what we want.This one looks really good. If you have any discolored areas where it looks like it got hot, if you have any cracks that are running down through here, or if it looks like it's kind of been turned where the bearings have come apart and they're going to cause some issues, might be a candidate for replacement rather than just putting on hubs and drums.Now, the first step in getting our hub installed is going to be to pack our bearings. Now, you can do this by hand by just putting a big wad of grease in your hand there and then capturing it, forcing it in through here until it comes out of this upper portion. Or you can use a bearing packer, like what we've got here.Now, this we're going to put our cone down in the middle, and then we're going to force it down until grease comes through. You can see those red driplets all the way around here indicate we've got the grease all the way through.This is going to be our outer bearing. It's going to be closest to the outside. The larger bearing is going to be our inner bearing. Just get both of those full.Now, the larger inner bearing, we want to drop this in the back of our hub assembly. Now, we'll grab our seal and a dead-blow hammer. Now, if you don't have a dead-blow hammer, you can use a four-by-four block and a regular hammer. We just don't want to hit this with a metal hammer. It will probably deform it on us.We want to get that centered really well. We need to knock it down in. We want it to sit flush all the way around, just like that.Now, we're ready to grab our hub, and that's going to get slid right onto our spindle there. Just like that.Now, what I like to do is take our grease gun now, and we're going to pump that inside full. You can see these are not easy-lube spindles. These are standard spindles, but we wanted that double-lip grease seal back there. So now we'll just fill this interior cavity full.Now, we just going to slowly fill that up all the way around. It's going to get rid of any air pockets in there, make sure we don't have moisture that builds up, causes us corrosion issues.Now, I'll take our packed outer bearing. Let me get that slid up on there.We've got our washer. Remember we saved that from our removal process. And that's a new nut that comes with our axle kit.Now, we're going to use our channel locks. We're going to tighten this all the way up.Now, we're going to tighten this down. We're trying to compress everything, get everything seated properly. And we want to tighten that down to about 50 foot pounds.Once we get it there, without rotating our hub, we're going to loosen it back up and then just run it in finger tight.At that point, we've got our keeper. That's going to slide over. Just like that. And that'll keep that nut from backing off.Now, we've got our dust cap. We want to align that on the end of the hub, and with the dead-blow again, we're going . And we'll drive it in until it seats right down against the hub face. Like that.Then we've got our plug. That's going to go right on the end there. All right.And that's the same thing we're going to do for all four positions, depending on how many hubs you're changing.Now, to get these on properly, we want to tighten this in a star pattern. So we'll go from this on to the one opposite of it, come down to this one, and go to the one opposite of it. And you'll want to use a 21-millimeter socket. Once you get them down to the ground, torque them to specification.And that's going to complete our look at the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assemblies.

Info for this part was:

Employee Patrick B
Installed by:
Patrick B
Employee Randy B
Installed by:
Randy B
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chad S
Video Edited:
Chad S
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D

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