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CE Smith Multi Sport Plus Boat Trailer with Bunks Review and Assembly

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Review and Assembly of the CE Smith Multi Sport Plus Boat Trailer with Bunks

Jake: Hey guys, it's Jake here with etrailer. Today we're going to be taking a look at, and we're going to show you how to assemble the CE Smith multi sport kayak and boat trailer. This is going to be able to haul your small boats, or two kayaks like we have here, to and from the lake. Now because this is a trailer, you're going to be able to get those elongated loads off the roof of your vehicle, or in the case of maybe a Jon boat that you might have that you don't have a trailer for. You're not going to be able to put a Jon boat on the roof of your vehicle.Now one thing that I really like about this trailer that I think stands out from other trailers, is that it's going to have multiple different types of configurations. Right now we have the two crossbars in the perpendicular configuration, because we have our two kayaks on it.

But if you we're to put any other type of small plastic boat, or a paddle boat, or a Jon boat, you can put the boards in a parallel configuration to be able to fit those other style boats. So you're going to be able to use this for whatever you have at your home.For some of those boats that might be a little too heavy to carry, such as a Jon boat, you're going to have this nice winch that you can clip onto the front of your boat, and winch it up tight to your bump stop here. This is going to make it a lot easier, so that you don't have to pull it up manually up onto the trailer. Along with the adjustability of the boards, you're going to be able to adjust the bow stop and your winch, wherever along this top support that suits your needs the best. So if you find yourself wanting to get a different boat, you can still change this to fit the needs of that new boat.Now what's really cool about this trailer is even as small as it is, they went the extra mile to putting all functioning lights and a license plate holder.

It's also going to have a suspension so that you have a smooth ride, to transport whatever kind of boat you have. With as small as this trailer is, they still included these side marker lights, so that people can see where the side of your trailer is when you're headed down the road. It's going to make it a lot easier for you to see when you're turning this trailer, because it does have a little bit longer tongue, where your fenders are at.Our lights are going to be submergible, so the light and the connections are going to be safe when backing this trailer into the water. With your bunks in this configuration, it's going to be 5' wide, so that gives you an idea of how wide the trailer is going to be when you're headed down the road. Now the wheels and tires are going to be a nice medium size so that when you're headed down the road, it's going to be a nice smooth ride.These brackets that the bunks are sitting are, you're going to get two sets of them, so it's going to have multiple different heights of adjustability with each set.

Here we have it set at the highest setting on our shorter brackets, because that's all we needed to be able to get our kayaks over our fenders. Surrounding our bunks is going to be a nice marine gray carpet to ensure that your boat is not going to get scratched or harmed when traveling down the road.Another point of adjustability is that you can loosen up these four bolts, and slide this whole assembly forward and backwards on the tongue itself, to adjust for those different length boats. Now you can only put up to a 14' boat on this trailer. The trailer is going to come with a 2" coupler, so you want to make sure you have a 2" ball to pair that with, and a lock on the top to make sure your trailer is secure. On the bottom, a nice feature I like is if your trailer we're to ever come unhooked, it has this nice bump stop so that if it came unhooked, your tongue is not going to dig into the ground.

It also makes for a second safety, for when you set the trailer on the ground. If you don't have a prop to set it up, you can just set it on this bump here.The entire trailer is going to be made out of a galvanized steel construction, so it's going to be great for those fresh water and salt water applications. With that being said, let's go ahead and pull it in the garage and show you how we got it put together. To start your assembly, you're going to want to lay it out like we have with our two side rails, our main support for your hitch, and the two crossbeams here.We're going to start by putting our spring supports on all four locations. When doing this first part of the assembly, you want to make sure that your whole trailer is upside down, so that when you flip it over it will be on the axle. inaudible 00:04:35 your front support tube upside down. The way you're going to known is you're going to have these two holes here, which are going to hold your bump stop, so that your trailer doesn't ever sit on the ground.Take your wiring harness with one male connector and three female, and run it through the end, towards your trailer. Now we're going to take our wire, run it through this hole in our support. Slide it onto the end of our main support up front. Take our long bolt, run it through the bottom, and put on a washer and nut. Now with this bolt still loose, you're going to want to line up your holes on the outside rails, with the end of your tongue. Run your carriage bolts through with the heads on the outside, so they can grab onto the squares, and thread on your nuts.Now the key to leaving all of this hardware loose here at the beginning is to ensure that you can get all the hardware properly assembled, and then go back and tighten everything down. If not, you may get something jammed up, and you won't be able to get maybe one of the crossbeams in place, or the rear crossbeam in place, so just leave it loose until you have everything assembled. I'll take two more of our longer bolts. Put a washer on first. Slide it through to the other side. Put a washer on the other side and thread on your nut.Now we can get our frame pieces. These are going to be our cross members. Get them set into place, pull your trailer together. Do the same for the middle one. Now we can go ahead and start inserting our hardware. Take our carriage bolts, pair them with a nut on each one. You do the same for all four ends. It's very important when you're tightening all our hardware down, it is still loose right now. You want to start with your two supports. Tighten those down first. Then you want to tighten down your tongue support. Then your tongue, and then this bolt that goes through our tongue. We'll go ahead and do all that right now.Then we can go ahead and get our axles mounted to our springs. I found this a little bit easier to do up on top of a table. Attach the plate underneath, run your U-bolt through, and thread on your nuts. Now we can go ahead and take our whole assembly and set it into place. Slide your rear side of your springs through those slots. Just set it down. Go ahead and lift up our spring. Slide our bolt through the outside, so that our nut is on the inside, right on our nut. Now we'll go ahead and tighten it down just until it makes contact. Now we can go ahead and tighten up our U-bolts so that our leaf springs are safely secured.Now we can go ahead and get our wheels and tires in place, thread on our nuts. Now we can go ahead and torque our nuts down with our 13/16th socket, to the specifications in your directions. Now we can go ahead and flip our trailer over. You can get a second set of hands, but it's not too heavy as long as you pivot it over and then set it down. We'll go ahead and take our brackets for our lights. Insert our carriage bolts and thread on our nuts. Now we can get our fenders installed. Go ahead and run our nut. You want to make sure the side of the bracket with the three holes is facing in towards the trailer. Then we'll do the same for the other side of the fender.Now we're going to take our regular hex head bolt, slide our washer on the end, lower our bracket until we can get it in this single hole here. Slide it through and put a nut and washer on the other side. Now we can go ahead and tighten all of our bolts we just installed on our fender assembly. With our fenders all installed and tightened down, we can now hook up our lights. Slide your light through and tighten down the nuts. Now we can take our wire for our taillights and run them through this hole right here. Once you get those wires run through, you can repeat this process for the other taillight.Now your license plate holder is going to slide up between your left rear taillight and your bracket, so make sure you get that slid up into place. Then you can insert your light. Now we can put our side marker lights in place. Slide our wires through there. Notice we chose that because it's down on the bottom right side. Slide our bolt through. Make sure your wires don't get kinked up, and insert our nut on the other side. Now we can take our plug from our wiring harness we ran through the tongue of the trailer earlier, and plug it into our new wiring harness that's going to stretch back to our lights.Now we can take our wires and run them back to the appropriate rear taillights. You'll notice that our right rear taillight has the yellow wire, along with the brown and the white. Our rear left taillight has the green wire, so you'll need to run it back to the appropriate lights. Now we can go ahead and make our connections, connecting our brown to our brown and our white to our white on our side marker. On our rear taillight, we'll do the same, just pairing up the wires to their appropriate matching color on our wiring harness. We'll do the same for the driver side. Now we can take the included clips and clip them onto our wire, and hook them onto the trailer.Now we can go ahead and get our coupler in place. Slide the appropriate bolts through and thread on our nuts. Now to get our tongue skid in place, we're going to take our bolt with a washer, slide two lengths on each end of our chain through. Slide that whole thing through our tongue skid. We can take our washer and our nut. Slide it up into place, and then reach through the end of the tongue. Throw your washer on and thread on your nut. Now when tightening down this bolt and nut, you want to make sure that your wire is not caught between the washer and the tongue in the trailer, because you'll smash it, potentially damaging the wire.Now you want to take your four long bolts, run them through your winch stand, so that your winch stand is angled towards the front of the trailer. Then tighten them down. Now we can go ahead and get our winch in place. Slide our bolt through. You want to place this wherever on your trailer it will work best for your boat application. We're going to put it a little bit higher up. Now to get our handle in place, remove this nut that's already in place on our winch. Slide our handle over, and replace the nut, and tighten it down.Before we get our bow stop in place, we'll get our bracket installed first, so it's so heavy to try to attach. You just take a bolt, slide it through this slot, and install your nut on the other side. Now you can install your bow bracket like we have it here, or you can actually slide it up behind to where these two slots here are lined up with the bolts on your actual winch itself. It's whichever is going to fit your bow the best. We'll take our bow stop now, with our long bolt and washer, slide it through. Install another washer and the nut.Now when installing the whole winch setup, you're going to want to know about where the front of your boat is going to be, so just take a measurement from the back of the trailer, and measure up. That's where you'll want to install this. You can loosen these four bolts and slide it up and down the tongue, wherever it works best for your boat. Now we can get our board supports in place. Slide our U-bolts over our brackets. Slide a washer on and thread on our nut. You want to decide whether to use the shorter brackets like we're using, or there's also included a longer bracket, if you need more clearance to go over top of your fenders.Now that we've got all four of ours in place, we can go ahead and get our brackets installed on the bottom of our boards. Now when putting the brackets on the underside of your boards, you're going to want to make sure whatever configuration you have it in. We're going to be having ours perpendicular to the trailer so that it can haul kayaks. If you're using it for a boat setup, you're going to want to install your brackets like this. If you're using it for the kayaks like we are, you're going to have it like this, and they'll be running perpendicular to the trailer.Now we marked out where each of our brackets are supposed to go, so we'll go ahead and get them in place. We did that by taking a measurement on where our brackets are on our trailer. We'll go ahead and get it in place. Now with our brackets still loosely installed, we can go ahead and install our boards. Go ahead and take our bolt, slide it through and install our nut on the other side. Now we'll take a 5/8" socket and tighten down our boards. Now with our boards all secured now, we can go ahead and lift up on our brackets, and tighten our brackets down.Now that we've got everything tightened down on the trailer, you want to make sure you check your lights, to make sure all the functions are working properly. You can hook it up to a tester like we have here, or just hook it up to your vehicle and test out the lights. First up is going to be our running lights. You'll have your left turn signal, your right turn signal, and your brake lights. You can see our side markers are also working properly. Well guys, with all that being said, that's going to do it for our look at the CE Smith multi sport kayak and boat trailer.

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Info for this part was:

Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video by:
Chris R
Employee Jacob H
Installed by:
Jacob H

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