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Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Electric Trailer Brake Kit Review

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Review of the Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Electric Trailer Brake Kit

Ryan: How's it going Ryan here at Today, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Dexter Axle trailer brakes in conjunction with the Dexter Axle trailer hubs and drums. Many times, trailer maintenance is often overlooked or even forgot about. That's because your trailer will sit for a while. Then you go to use it and realize something's not working just right.Well, just like a vehicle the trailer brakes over time are going to get some wear and tear and need a little bit of attention and the ones here that we replace today are a perfect example of that. The shoes, the brake shoes, are wearing really thin.

Sometimes they can even get cracks in them. The whole component itself is just showing some age, getting really rusty and they're just not going to perform like they should and the main advantage these have over your standard style brake assemblies is that these are going to require very little maintenance. Since they are the never adjust, you're not going to have to worry about coming in behind your backing plate and adjusting your brakes. That way you know your pads are going to wear down evenly and provide you with maximum stopping power.Since these are electric brakes, you are going to need a brake controller and your towing vehicle to activate them and if you don't have a brake controller or you're looking for a new one, there's plenty to choose from here at These are going to have a 7,000 pound axle rating.

They're also going to have a five bolt mounting flange and they're going to fit 14 and a half up to 16-inch wheels. Once you get your hands on these, you're going to be able to tell that they're really heavy duty and just really well made and since they are preassembled, they're going to be really easy to install and whenever you do replace your brake assembly, it's never a bad idea to also replace the hub and drum assembly.In this case here, we are using the Dexter. Now, right away, you're going to be able to tell it's really well built and heavy duty and one of the things that kind of separates this one from some of the other ones is the size of the studs. Now, these are actually 5/8 in diameter, so they're a little bit thicker and then in our customer's case he uses his trailer to the maximum capacity and he was actually having some issues with the smaller 9/16 style studs breaking and just giving them some trouble. So not only is he getting better braking performance, but he's also more or less getting an upgrade and in the size of his wheel studs and these are just going to be a little more heavy duty.Now what's cool too is that the hubs are actually going to come included with the correct size lug nuts.

So that's going to be one less thing you're going to have to worry about picking up. Now these are going to work with 12 inch electric and hydraulic brake assemblies. They're also going to have an eight by six and a half bolt pattern and that bolt pattern's good to know. That way, you can make sure it'll work with your wheels. Now, there are just a couple of things I would recommend picking up if you don't have already to make the installation little bit easier, one of them being grease because you are going to have to pack your wheel bearings, another one being a cotter pin if that's the type of securing device at your trailer uses.

These aren't going to come included with a cotter pin.You can always reuse the old one if you can. But to be on the safe side, if you want to pick one of those up, you can find it here at Another thing I would recommend is some brake clean. That way you can clean off the back of your drum and make sure everything is nice and clean. Now as far as the installation goes, everything is relatively straightforward. It shouldn't take you a whole lot of time, should I have no problem doing it at home. Speaking of which, let's go ahead and put it on together now. To begin our installation, we're going to be working back here at our wheels. Now something I want to point out, I'm using some lifts to get our trailer way up off the ground just for better inaudible 00:03:53 purposes. However, you don't need lifts to get this job done. Just your regular jack and jack stands will do the trick just fine. But with that being said, we can now go ahead and remove our wheel.Now with the wheel out of the way, what we can do is remove this little cap here and that'll give us access to a nut that's sitting behind it. So to get this cap off, sometimes if you kind of scrape around the corner, kind of get some of that dirt and debris out of the way, it makes it a little easier. So I went ahead and done that. Then you can take a pry bar like this or a flathead screwdriver and we're going to drive that or wedge it in between the hub itself and this cap to separate the two. We'll just pop it off just like that. You can now take this nut off. But before we do that, there's going to be a cotter pin in here. So if we bend the cotter pin straight, we're able to work that out and set that to the side. We can just unscrew the nut. We'll grab that and set it to the side and we can carefully pull on our hub and start to work it out.If you kind of pull it out and push it back on, you should be able to grab this washer and the old bearing and then we'll just slide that hub off. We'll put it to the side. So to get our actual brake assembly off, what we're going to need to do is first cut the wires that's coming out of the back of it. That way when we unbolt it and slide it off, we're not going to have to deal with them then. Now what we can do around the center here, there's going to be five nuts. So go ahead and take those off. Grab it. If it's a little seized, you might have to kind of work it from side to side to break it free. We'll just slide this off and out of the way. At this point we can grab our brake assembly. Slide that with the spindle there and make sure all of our studs come out through it. Then we can take the new included hardware. Get those started. Once we have them all on hand tight, we can come back and tighten down.Now what we can do is reconnect our wires. So in our case we happen to have another set of wires. So I just twisted the new ones coming from our brake assembly, put them together with those and on one end I'm going to take a butt connector. Not the butt connector is not included. But if you need some you can find them here at etrailer and I personally like to use the heat shrink ones just because they give us a little more protection and on the other end we can just connect them to our trailer wiring here. They crimp down. What I like to do is kind of just lightly pull on the two to make sure that the connection is solid. So you know our connections are good. Then I will come back in with a heat gun to seal up that heat shrink. So with our brake assembly on the trailer, we can now grab our hub and drum and prepare this to put on the trailer as well.So what we're first got to do is grab some wheel bearing grease and just kind of pack that on the inside and just coat everything. You don't have to get too crazy with it right now because we will come back and completely fill it with grease. I just like to kind of get a start on it and then we're going to grab our larger bearing. This is going to set down in there. However, we need to pack it full of grease first. So to do that, you take a handful of grease, kind of put it in the palm of your hand. What we're going to do is this opening here that's a little bit larger, we're just going to push it down into the grease to pack it in there and you're going to work it all the way around and you're going to know it's packed whenever the grease starts to come out of the smaller opening here. So we can take a good look around the smaller edge. We'll see that grease is completely surrounding it. So we know it is properly packed.I'll just kind of smear the rest of it all over the bearing. Now that our bearing is packed, what we can do is set that down into the hub, make sure it's seated. We can go ahead and kind of clean our hands up a little bit and we can take our seal and get that put in place. So to get our seal in, what I did is kind of just took a paper towel and wiped around this edge here just to get rid of some of that extra grease and how this is going to work, it's going to sit right inside of it and we are going to have to drive it down to make sure that it's sealed.That way, when we're pushing this down, we're going to make sure to get it as level as possible. So what I mean by that, you want to try to drive it down evenly. So what I'm going to do is take a flat two by four, set it over the seal and a dead blow hammer. We're just going to kind of do some light taps and after every few taps, kind of check it out, make sure it's going down evenly, which if it isn't, like this side is going down a little bit further, kind of adjust that two by four accordingly to get that seal to drive down evenly and once it's all the way down, this is what it's going to look like.So now what you would do, it's never a bad idea to kind of clean the surface of our drum here. So I just use some brake clean and a paper towel and made sure there wasn't no grease on it and a lot of times too, these will have almost a light coating of oil on them to help prevent rust during storage and shipping. So that brake clean will get the surfaces nice and fresh and then you can flip it over. You're going to take the front bearing, which is the smaller one and pack it, just like we did that back bearing. Then kind of just set that right in there. So now we can take our hub and drum assembly and slide that over the spindle.Now it's not a bad idea either to just kind of take some grease and just lightly coat your spindle. Then we'll line that up and a lot of times this front bearing will get pushed a little bit if you don't get it perfectly center. Just keep that in mind when you're pushing this on. You can see it kind of popped out a little bit. So make sure you get that pushed all the way back in there. Now we can grab our washer. Get that put on. We need our castle nut. Then we can start to tighten this up. Now whenever you tighten the castle nut down, what's you're looking for is for the nut to be relatively tight. But you still want to be able to more or less freely spin your hub assembly and once you have achieved that, what you can then do is take your cotter pin and put that back into the spindle. That way, we don't have to worry about that nut backing off. Now we can grab our new cap and get that installed.So this will just line up over our hole and sometimes it helps to even grab a block of wood and give it a shot that way too if it's fighting you a little bit. You can kind of just check around the whole edge of it and make sure it's completely seated. After the spindle has a grease fitting or grease inaudible 00:14:27, it's never a bad idea to get a grease gun. You can just pack it with a little more grease. Once you have it packed, you can take the rubber plug, you can just install that onto the cap to help keep everything sealed and then to wrap everything up, you just put your tire back on, get all your lug nuts started. Then we can tighten them down. Now once we have all the lug nuts tightened down, we'll lower the trailer down back onto the ground and use a torque wrench to torque our hardware down to the amount recommended and that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the Dexter Axle trailer brake assembly in conjunction with the Dexter Axle trailer hub and drum.

Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Ryan G
Installed by:
Ryan G
Employee Joshua S
Video by:
Joshua S
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K

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