Dometic Full-Timer RV Toilet with Hand Sprayer Review

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Review of the Dometic Full-Timer RV Toilet with Hand Sprayer


Hi there, RVers. Today, we're going to be taking a look at Dometic's line of Full-Timer RV toilets. These are available in either white or tan, either low-profile or standard height. We're going to be showing off the standard. Then with or without a cleaning sprayer. And we're also going to be showing off the sprayer.

Dometic calls this the Full-Timer, because it's designed to be just like your toilet at home. When you're sitting on it, you almost can't even tell the difference. Its elongated design is very comfortable to sit on, just like your one at home. And if you have the standard height, it's going to be the same height as one you would have at home. If you do opt for the low-profile toilet, it's going to have a height of 16 inches.

Your standard's 19 1/4 inch.The other real difference is that you're not going to have a tank on the back of this, because that takes up a lot of real estate and we don't need it in the RV. And this is going to be significantly easier to install than a home toilet would be. To give you that feel like you're sitting on a toilet at home, they've got similar dimensions. It is 12 inches on the inside from front to back, and 8 inches from side to side on the inside, cut out. From the seat to the bottom of the bowl, it's 8 3/4 inches.

Since there's no tank, it features a foot lever flush. You can push it down halfway to add more water to the bowl, if you desire. And if we go all the way down, it'll open it up to empty out whatever's inside.When you finish flushing, it's going to fill up with about a pint of water to help you conserve for the next time. If you've opted for the model with the sprayer, we can take it off of its mount, and it'll help you clean up any extra messes. Now, the sprayer doesn't work when you're not pressing on the flush mechanism, so you don't have to worry about any accidents, but when you are ready to use it, you can go ahead and press down on the flush lever, and take care of whatever you need to.

Once you're all done, we can just store it right back into its mounting position.Since this is a gravity flush design, unlike the toilets at home, it doesn't need all that extra water to get everything down. See, it opens up and everything's just going to drop right down into the tank. It's designed to be a direct replacement for your existing toilet, but it's going to be much nicer than your existing one, because most of the ones that come with your RVs and your campers are going to be a cheaper, smaller model. It's not going to be quite as comfortable to sit on. A lot of times they're made out of mostly plastic material.With our Dometic here, it does have a plastic base down here at the bottom, but it has a nice porcelain bowl, which is going to look nicer. It's going to be easier to clean up. And our seat here is made of wood, so on those cold winter mornings, we don't have to worry about any surprises. Since it has a porcelain bowl, it's also going to be resistant against stains. If you opt for the model with a sprayer, you can keep it shiny, just like this, all year round. So if you call your RV home, this is the toilet you'll need when nature calls.We'll begin our installation by removing our old toilet. The removal procedure may be slightly different if you have a different toilet, but they're all fairly similar. Before we start disconnecting anything, you do want to make sure that you've got your water supply turned off. The location of your valves is going to vary. Just make sure you've got that all turned off. Then what I like to do afterwards is just flush and confirm that we've got nothing coming out. We're nice and dry right now. There's going to be a hose on the back that we're going to disconnect. This is our hose right here that we're going to be disconnecting. It just unthreads. You could put a rag down if you want to catch any little bit of dribbles, but as long as you've got it drained, there's not really going to be any bulk water coming out of here.That just disconnects right there. Now we can start removing the toilet from its base. There's little caps over the screws. You can just take your screwdriver, a pair of pliers, your fingernails, whatever you need to just pop this little cap up. It'd be a little bit easier depending on how much room you've got inside. Just want to remove that, and then we can remove the nut. We're going to do the same thing on the other side. Now that we've got both the nuts off of there, we can just lift the toilet out of here.Now we'll just set this outside. We can go ahead and replace the studs with the ones that it comes with. Sometimes you can just slide them right out of there, sometimes it's a little tight and you may need to loosen up some hardware to slide it out. Slide our new ones in, and you can snug it back down. We'll do the same thing over here on the other side. We don't want to cause any damage to our seals, so we're not going to take any of these screws or our seal completely off. We're just loosening the hardware up just enough to be able to slide those out.Before we install our new toilet, we want to make sure we've got the seal on it. It should come shipped with the seal on it, but you know how shipping can go. The seal might've fallen off. If it did, you want to make sure you put it back on. It does say on the seal which side is which, so just want to read that to make sure you've got it on correctly. We're going to now set the toilet in place onto our studs.Now that we've got it sat on there, we can start tightening it down with our hardware. One of the things you're going to notice is that the toilet's not quite all the way flush with the floor, and that's because of that seal. As we tighten these down, we're going to compress that seal, bringing it flush to the floor. When you're doing this, you want to make sure you tighten down your hardware evenly, going back and forth to ensure you don't over-tighten it on one side, and that we've got a nice, good, even seal.So normally what I like to do, I put a washer on first followed by our nut. Those come included with your kit. I like to get them as tight as I can by hand first, because I'm not going to be strong enough with just my little fingers here to damage the toilet. So now I'm just going to tighten these down with my 7/16ths wrench. Again, making sure to go back and forth and tighten them down evenly. I like to use the stud as a gauge, you can count the number of threads to try to make it even on each side.Another way you can check yourself, is to just check by the tightness. So we're just going to gently push on the front of the toilet here, and you can see that we've got a rock and we're not even all the way on the ground here. We've got a gap. So we're going to just snug it down just a little bit more to ensure that we're setting nice and even on the ground.Now that we've got the toilet down nice and even, and we give a little push on it, it doesn't rock back and forth anymore. So we can install our caps on top that come included with our toilet. Let's just push on. We can now reach around back, and we're going to re-install our water line. You just want to line that up and then tighten it down. At this point now, depending on the toilet you've got, your installation could be complete.If you've got the models that have the sprayer, follow along with us here, and we're going to get the sprayer mounted up on the wall. If you don't have a model with a sprayer, your installation's complete, you're ready to hook up back to your water and test everything out. Ours does have a sprayer. It sits in the mount just like this. The hole on the top is going to be larger than the hole in the bottom for it to set down in. It does come with hardware to get the bracket mounted to the wall. We're going to be putting ours back here behind the toilet, where it's out of the way. This spot in the bathroom is a little close to the wall. So you don't want it in a spot where you're actually going to knock it and bump it off the wall.So we first want to find our position. We're going to be putting ours right here. We're then going to go ahead and drill out for the upper hole. We know where we want it, so we're just inaudible 00:07:32 idea. We're just going to get that upper hole going. I'm using a size that's very similar to our hardware that comes with it. Just want to match that up. This is a 15/64ths.So we can just poke this in place. We want it to be close to flush with the wall, but we don't want to push it in the wall. If it's a little bit sticking out, that's okay, we can adjust that later. Now that inaudible 00:08:02 I'm going to hold this one up to where it's lined up and I want to get it nice and level. And then I'm just going to use the screw that it comes with to just push it through the hole, just to dimple the wall a little spot right there so I know where to drill for the second hole.Once again, we're going to push our piece in there and we're now ready to install the mount. Then we can just put our screws in and tighten them down. Then we'll get the other one snugged down. We don't want to overtighten these. Just until it's snug. Now we've got it mounted up. Our hose will just sit right in there and it's ready when we need it. And we can have it in a spot where we can easily open the lid and it's not going to contact it. It'll be out of our way whenever we're doing our business in here. Whenever we need to clean up a mess, we can easily do so. Now we've got it fully mounted up, all we need to do now is hook up to a water supply, and we're going to test everything out. That completes our look at Dometic's line of Full-Timer RV toilets..


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Info for these parts were:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Installed by:
Kathleen M
Employee David F
Installed by:
David F
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K

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