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etrailer Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly Review and Installation

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Review and How to Install the etrailer Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly

Randy: Hey guys. Randy here at Today we're going to be taking a look at the trailer hub and drum assembly. This is the 3,500 pound easy lube type axle, 10 inches in diameter with a five on four and a half inch bolt pattern. Here's what our hub is going to look like installed. You see this is going to be the exact perfect replacement for what we're looking for.

It's going to eliminate a lot of the issues with this galvanized finish that we typically get in coastal areas, really humid areas. We're in the rust belt. When they're using a lot of salt on the roads and there's a lot of salt in the area, corrosion becomes an issue. This customer uses this trailer as his work trailer. He uses it every day when he needs it and he just doesn't want to have to worry about it.

That's why we put a brand new brake assembly on, put a brand new hub on with that galvanized finish, so we really shouldn't have any issues.Now this is an easy lube type of hub. It's designed to fit 10 inch diameter brakes and it offers the five on four and a half bolt pattern. Now, that size is going to be very common. It's going to help to ensure that it works with your AL-KO, Lipper, Dexter and Axle Tek as a direct replacement., Now taking a minute to compare this to other products that we have available, there's really no big difference in them. This is especially going to be better than buying your parts individually and having them fail one by one and having to take everything apart and put them back together.

Even comparing them to more expensive type brands, they're right in line and offer the same quality.Now, in getting to the assemblies, we need to remove our drum here. Or if you're going to be doing the drum as well, kind of like we are, we need to get this off. In order to do that, this cap is going to have to come off. We're just going to use a dead blow hammer and if we kind of tap out on it as we rotate, we see it's going to come off. That one came off pretty quick.

They take sometimes a little bit longer than that, but once you get that off, we're going to clean this grease off. That's going to allow us to get to the keeper. Let me see with that grease off. See, this one has a cotter pin. It's going to be right here. Some of them are going to have different styles. Some of them will have a keeper that slides over. It doesn't really matter which one you've got. Just hang onto it, because we will be reusing it.So here is the cotter pin. We need to straighten that guy out. Then begin to push it down and get ahold of its bottom side. Now, we just want to back off this large nut. We're going to hang onto this. We'll be reusing it just like our keeper there. These aren't very tight. Generally just a pair of pliers, those will come off and then we're going to wiggle our drum just a little bit here. And then here on the end we're going to have this thrust washer. We're going to get that off. Now, if you're getting a new hub like what we're going to be doing, we're going with the galvanized hub just to eliminate a lot of this rusting issue, then you won't need to keep your bearings. You won't need to keep your hub or the seal. If you're not replacing this, if you're just going to be replacing the brake assembly, hang onto these things so you can put them back together.Once that's off, we're going to clean everything up really well. We need to inspect our spindle here. We're going to be looking for any type of damage to it. Going to be looking for any signs of like major heat, you see any discoloration on it. Our seal rides right on this lip, so we want to make sure that's nice and clean and free of defect. We've got our inner bearing that's going to go here. Outer bearing is going to go here, so we just want to make sure everything's nice and smooth. You don't see any cracking, no discoloration. This one looks really good.Now it's time for us to get our bearings packed. These are going to go on our new hub. This is going to be the inner bearing. It's going to fit right up there. Our seal is going to be behind it, protecting it. Our outer bearing, that's going to go here. That's going to go on after we get the hub installed. I like that. That's what our actual hub is going to ride on. We need to get these packed with grease first and take you through that process. We're going to be using UltraLube. We have this available on our website. If you don't have grease at home, you'll want to go this route. I guess, except if you're going to be doing it in a marine application. If you're going to be doing it in a marine application, you might want to use a marine grade grease. Our customer here is just going to be utility. What I like to do is just force it in through this larger gap here and I'm going to force it in enough to where I see it come out to the other side. I just work one section at a time. Now, you can see it right up there, starting to come out of that top area, so we want to work that all the way around.With our bearings packed, we're going to take our inner bearing. That's the larger the two. We're going to put it with that taper facing in, so the narrower part, and it's going to sit down and in for us. We've got our seal. Now, we offer a seal driver. I use that quite a bit. I like using the seal driver. You could also use a block of wood, dead blow hammer, like what we're using here. The biggest thing is just not to use something that's going to damage our seal. We just want to get it gently worked in there. Then kind of go around it, slowly drive it in. This should go down and sit just about flush with the back side of the hub. Just like that.Something else I really appreciate it, since we are replacing the hub, it's got the galvanized finish inside and out with the exception of our working surfaces. So the area here, that's going to be our braking surface. You can see really good new machine material there and that'll be where our magnet rides. It's very important, especially when we switch these out, that we have these nice clean surfaces so everything can work really well. It really gives us optimized braking as opposed to just putting our old drums back on.Now, we'll slide that over it and have to wiggle it a little bit to get it in place, but you'll feel it come to a pretty good stop there. At that point we've got our outer bearing that's going to slide in. Should center everything up and then we'll take the washer we took off before, wipe off any old grease there. That's going to slide on. We'll take our nut and clean the old grease off that, then we can gently thread that on. All right. See, we've run that down and at that point see that binding It's a little bit tight. I always like to run it all the way down, though, so I know everything is seated properly. We're going to back it off just a little bit there. Just want to make sure when we push in and out, we don't have any play.Now, we need one of the gaps. In our setup anyway, we need one of our gaps here to line up with the hole that's going to allow us to get that cotter pin through. Might have to tap it a little bit. Then once that's through, you grab each side there and get it tilted. I'm going to twist it. Now we get our end cap and that black rubber cap there is for your easy lube spindle. That way we can get into that grease there. Just want to take that down so that inaudible 00:07:55. Now, let's take our cap off there and that'll allow us to get to our grease there. I want to just slowly add grease in there until we started seeing it come out forward. Once we see that, we'll be in good shape. You just cap it back off. Then we get our wheel and tire put back on.Now, we get the hub, we get the new grease cap, all the new bearings and seals, but we're also going to get new lug nuts. So basically, with the exception of the tire and rim itself, we're going to be brand new from the brakes out. Now, to test everything out, of course, we want to make sure our connections are right, so we'll hook up our truck, or you can hook up a trailer tester, get the wheels spinning, have them apply the brakes and make sure it stops. It's ideal because you can see nice and solid there. Go ahead and release. Should release cleanly and we'll be ready to head down the road again.

Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Randy B
Installed by:
Randy B
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D

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