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etrailer Hub And Drum Assembly Installation

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How to Install the etrailer Hub And Drum Assembly

Hi there, trailer owners. Today, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install etrailer's 10-inch by five on 4 1/2 galvanized drum assemblies. You can get these in either the galvanized like we're showing off here or with just a black powder coat finish. The galvanized ones here are for the higher rust areas that you might be in or for applications that see a lot more moisture such as your boat trailers, Jet Ski trailers, and things like that, that are gonna just be exposed to the elements a lot more. I live in an area where it's muddy frequently, and where my trailer sits, I try to keep it up out of the mud. I've got some rocks there, but it's just kind of a mess sometimes.

So to protect my assemblies when it's sitting over the winter, I went ahead and put the galvanized on as well. And this is what our drum assembly looks like when it's installed. We've got our 10-inch drum here that we just used to replace our old drum that had some scoring and some corrosion on the inside of the inner surface that was preventing our brakes from operating as optimally as they could. We also had replaced it because the bearings inside we're worn out, and regardless of adjustment and packing, the bearings' play was still present, and there was a little pitting involved on the bearings. This is an easy way to get all this whole assembly kind of revamped and renewed because with this drum assembly here, you're gonna get your inner and outer bearing.

The raises for those bearings are already pre-installed in the drum, reducing the time that it's gonna take for you to install the components. You'll get your grease seal as well included in the kit and a new grease cap here on the outside. In addition to that, you're gonna get a set of five lug nuts as well. So make sure that when you take your wheels off, that you're gonna have appropriate lug nuts that will match with the studs. 'Cause sometimes, it really sucks when you go to change your drum out, you get it all done, and then last step's put the wheel back on and you find out that your drum here has a different thread pattern or size than your old nuts and they don't work.

The studs that are on here are half-inch studs, and it's a five on 4 1/2 pattern. And you'll wanna make sure that your wheel accepts that as well. So that way, it'll slide back on. This drum assembly here is designed for 3,500-pound axles with a number 84 spindle. You can see it's got a galvanized finish on it to help protect against rust and corrosion, and it just gives it a nice look on the outside.

It's designed for 10-inch brake assemblies, and the drum is a 10 by 2 1/4. And that's the depth, so you just wanna make sure that, that is the appropriate depth for yours when you are getting yours. The drum has an iron construction, again, with that galvanized finish on it to protect it, so it's very heavy, it's very beefy, and it should last for many years to come as long as you keep up on greasing your bearings and making sure everything's operating smoothly in here. These do come as a single drum assembly, so you're only gonna get enough to do one side in this kit. So make sure if you're gonna be doing both one full axle here, then you wanna make sure you get two, so you can do each side of the axle. You can also get the backing plate shoe assemblies here at etrailer. So that way, your entire brake assembly will be new. The backing plates come fully loaded with the shoes already installed and all the hardware installed. So it's as simple as just disconnecting our wiring and a couple of nuts, sliding that assembly off, and putting the new one on. The brake assemblies with the backing plates and shoes do come as a paired set, so you'll get enough for the entire axle. It is important to make sure you put those on the appropriate side, so just double-check your sticker if you're doing that at home. We'll begin our installation with our trailer here. Park it on some level ground just to make things easier, and then we'll need to jack it up so we can get the wheel off. So I've got it supported by the frame underneath here. And I also put a jack stand underneath the front. We do have our tongue jack up there for jacking it up, but I didn't wanna trust just the tongue jack lifting this thing up, so I put some stands underneath the A frame up there as well. We then went ahead and zipped off our tire, and we can start getting our brakes apart here. So we'll start right here at the end on the cap here. A rubber mount like this usually works pretty well. Kinda just tap it downward and out, and you can see it already kinda popped it out of there. Now, at this point, you can take a flat-bladed screwdriver if you want to get in there to kinda pry it out of there. Or a lot of times, you just spin it around to the other side. You can just continue hitting it on it there, it'll pop out. From there, we're gonna take out the cotter pin that's located behind it. I'm just gonna grab that with our pliers here, straighten the pin out, and then we can push the pin through. Pull it out the other side. I have a little napkin I sat down here as well to help minimize the mess. You're gonna get some grease on things here when you go to pull this apart. So if you can keep your area clean, it helps prevent you from spreading it inside your house and inside your trailer at home. Next, we're gonna remove the nut. And I figured I'd let you know why we're doing this here. This is my personal trailer. The reason we're replacing these is because of play in the wheel bearings. I've had some pretty excessive play over the years. I've greased them and I've tightened 'em up, and they've gotten to a point now where even tightening 'em up, I still have a little bit of play in there, more than I would like. So we're just gonna get the bearings replaced. And this is the original drum and brake assembly. So we're just gonna take care of everything while we're here. This trailer's pretty close to 20 years old, so it's in need of a little bit of TLC here. So now that we've got that nut out of the way, the assembly here is just gonna slide off. This right here's a washer, and right behind it's our outer bearing. So I'm gonna put a little screwdriver here in the middle to catch those 'cause it's covered in grease, and we're trying to keep the mess down. So we're just kinda rolling it out a little bit. See if we can't get that bearing to drop out of there under our screwdriver. There we go. And then, we can set that down. And then, this'll just slide straight out. And here's our whole assembly here. So this is everything that you're gonna want to see. Things that we're wanting to look at here to see whether or not we're gonna be replacing our components or if we're gonna be able to reuse 'em is on the inside of the drum here, we wanna look for cracking and stuff. You can see here, this drum's got pretty heavily rusted. It's got some gouge marks in it. So we are definitely gonna be getting this thing replaced. Surprisingly enough, the seal hasn't been damaged. That's one thing to look at though. If the seal here is damaged and it leaks grease out, you'll see the grease flung all on the inside of here and as well as on your brake assembly. If you see that grease contamination, you're gonna wanna replace the pads, the shoes, I mean, on your brakes over there. Because once that grease gets into the shoe material, it loses its stopping properties. It will still stop some, but you're gonna have significantly reduced stopping performance. So we're gonna go ahead and replace those as well. 'Cause I had really expected to see this seal to be bad with as many times as I've repacked it and things like that. But it's held up pretty well. So we're still gonna get that replaced. We're gonna get our drums replaced. This whole assembly here, we're replacing. 'Cause you can see it's pretty worn down in there. There is here on the drum, written on there, you'll have your drum diameter there, 10.09. And that's the maximum that you'll see here, 10.09. So if you we're planning on reusing these, if you don't see any damage inside of it, you'll measure the diameter across. And I usually check it in multiple areas, do it in a plus and then an X from there. And that'll give you an idea if your drum is out of round, 'cause all your numbers should be relatively the same. And if they're not, then that can indicate out of roundness. And if those numbers exceed that maximum diameter, you're gonna wanna replace this. Another thing you wanna check on your drum is the depth. This is a 2 1/2-inch like deep drum, or they might call it a width. You just wanna check that to make sure when you're ordering your new assembly that you're getting the exact same size. So 10-inch diameter, same depth as well. And you also wanna check your bearings that you remove when you're taking your assembly out to make sure that when you're getting this, you're getting the exact same bearings that are gonna slide onto your axle. The one we're replacing today is for 3,500-pound axles, and the bearings that we have, we'll be showing you the numbers when we go to put it together. So we're gonna set this aside. We're not gonna be reusing anything with this. We've got our whole new assembly here. The new assembly we're putting on, it comes with our bearings and everything for us, and the raises are already installed, so that makes our life a whole lot easier. So the next thing we're gonna do here before we put our drums on, I'm just gonna get the grease cleaned off of this here. And since we're replacing our brakes, we're gonna go ahead and get this removed and get our new ones put on as well. So we went ahead and got our brakes replaced here. To replace your assemblies, it's pretty easy. You can see these are the studs. You'll just remove the nuts, slide your assembly off, cut your two wires here, and then your new assembly simply just slides on. You'll reinstall the four nuts on there, and then reconnect your two wires that's on your new assembly to the two you cut 'em off. There's no polarity there, So it doesn't matter which of these two. That's why they're the same colored green 'cause it doesn't matter. As long as you're two goes to there. When ordering your assembly, you just wanna make sure you get the exact same size and weight rating that your axle and all your components you're gonna be using are. So that way, everything matches. And this is a 10-inch brake assembly here, and it's got a 2 1/2-inch depth as well. Or sorry, 2 1/4-inch depth as well to match our drum. This comes as a set of two, so you get one for each side. Make sure you're paying attention to the sticker that's located on there. That indicates if this is for the right or left side. Because these assemblies here are gonna be dependent on the certain side, on which side they go on. Now, our drums here, these can go on either side. These don't matter. All right. And here, we've got our drums. So one of the things that I like about the drum here is if you look down inside, that's the raises. You get this set from etrailer. You get your bearings and your seals with it. And the raises come pre-installed. That's one of the biggest difficulties in replacing the bearings in your drum is getting that raise out of there. You have to drive it out from the backside. You have to drive it back in, and it's got a very thin edge, and it can be difficult to drive it in and out without damaging the raise. So getting an assembly like this not only speeds up your time of installation significantly, 'cause you don't have to deal with the raises, but it also ensures that you're able to kinda put it together without running into any of the areas that are difficult that could potentially cause you to have to start all over and get new parts. So we've got our assembly already prepped for us with the raises in it, so we can go ahead and get our bearings packed. Here's the two bearings. These are the exact same numbers from the ones that I removed. And what I did was before I even ordered the parts, I just popped that cap off of there, and I looked at the numbers on the bearing. The outer one slid out, you saw right away. The other one, after we slid the assembly off, we did have to kinda stick a screwdriver with a rag on the backside to clean it up a little bit to read the numbers. The outer bearing we're using today is an L44649, and it's written on your bearing, and it is written on the old ones as well. It's a little harder to see 'cause they're a little worn, but you can still read those numbers. They don't typically wear all the way off. For our inner bearing, it's gonna be an L68149. And that's exactly the same one that I checked on my old assembly, so I know these are gonna slide onto my axle. I know my drum here is the exact same size, so I know that's all gonna work. Same with the brakes that I just put on there, I know those are the same size as well. We're gonna start by packing the inner bearing, which is the larger of the two. So we'll set this one aside for now. I got a box over here that I'm putting those parts in 'cause I'm trying to keep those parts nice and clean. We don't want 'em on the dirty shop floor and stuff like that, try to keep the contaminants out. This is a bearing packer. You can get one here at etrailer if you need to. I highly recommend using a packer because it saves you a lot of time, and it also saves you a lot of mess. If you don't have something like this, the way you pack your bearings, you'd put a glob of grease on your hand. You'd see the back opening here on the bearing, and you just kinda smash the grease in there like that and just move it around, continually smashing until you get grease that is smashed from the one side that starts to actually come out the opposite side 'cause you smashed it. That's a pretty long process if you're doing it in your hand. Probably gonna take you like five minutes per bearing to get that packed properly. With our assembly here, this is gonna go significantly faster. We drop our bearing with the smaller side of the taper angled down, so it's like that. Take the center cone of your packer, make sure of course that you've got it full of grease, and then you simply just press down. I do a little bit of a rocking, twisting motion on it, just 'cause it seems to help it go through the bearing a little bit faster. And we can see, we already got some coming through there. I'm gonna do a little bit more. All right. And that's what we wanna see right there. If you look down in there, you can see the grease has squeezed through the one side, all the way out the other side. So we know that the inside cage assembly there is fully packed all the way through. I'm just gonna smear a little bit of grease now on the outside of the bearings here, just so that way there's no, minimize our chance of having any metal-to-metal contact. So we're just gonna lube those up there, and we're gonna drop this down inside of our assembly. The next thing we're gonna do, and we're doing this mainly because if we look real quick here at our axle, I don't have EZ Lube axles. If you did, you'd have a grease fitting right there that would allow you to use a grease gun and squirt grease into the axle to fill up any of the empty cavities. So I don't have that. If you do, it's awesome. It definitely saves you some time. But if you don't have it, you gotta do what you gotta do. So since we don't have it, we've packed our bearing here. But there's gonna be some open cavities between the spindle here and the inside of our drum. So I've got some excess grease here. We're just gonna put some of this and just kinda smear it up inside here a little bit. We're just trying to ensure that nothing's gonna go together or the grease isn't gonna be able to kinda work its way out into those cavities and get away from where we want it on the bearing. So we're just kinda smearing some in there, kinda making it to where it feels flush. And that feels pretty decent there. You can also smear a little bit around the backside if you wanted to as well. You don't wanna go too crazy 'cause we're gonna be putting a seal in here in just a minute. But it doesn't hurt to put a little bit back in there. And again, this is only because I don't have the EZ Lube axles, why I'm putting these in there. Scrape this off down inside of there. If you do have the EZ Lube, then I would just skip this step and just use your grease gun to fill 'em up. But you still wanna make sure you pack your bearing just like we did there. All right, so now that we've got that kinda greased up, I'm just gonna clean a little bit of this off here. All right. And then, we're gonna grab our grease seal now. You do also wanna check the measurements on your grease seal. We just talked about the bearing numbers that you can grab off of there. The grease seal here, you wanna see your outer diameter, so you can measure that when you pull your assembly off. And you also wanna measure the inner diameter there, and you can do that if you wanted to over here on the spindle. That's this raised portion here. So not this section. This is where our bearings are gonna slide onto. This is where the seal rides, so you can check it there as well. 'Cause there are a couple of seals that are very close in size to this one, and they are around this 3,000-pound axle range. So you just wanna double-check that to make sure you're getting the appropriate grease seal that's gonna fit in both your assemblies here. So we're gonna drop it down. This is the outside. The spring side here is gonna face towards the inside. Drop it down in there, and then we need to drive it into place. You can get seal drivers here at etrailer. Or if you don't have any at home, what works pretty well is a block of wood. A two-by-four works better than a thinner piece, but this is kinda what we've got on hand right here. This will work fine for us too. The main thing is that the wood expands all the way across your seal here, so we can drive it straight down. So we're gonna go ahead and get it started here. And we're gonna pay attention as we're driving it in. If one side goes a little further than the other, we can adjust our wood here kind of as necessary to keep us on that straight path going down. We're gonna drive it in until it is flush with the bottom of our assembly. So I'm just gonna change directions here real quick, just to make sure that it's flush all the way across. And then, just give it a little feel there. Make sure it feels good. We are nice and flush. We're down in there. It's exactly what we're looking for. All right. So now, if we flip it over, you can see we've kinda filled up some of those cavities there. We're gonna continue filling up that inner cavity now from the other side here before we go to slide it in place. So just like we we're doing before, we're just doing it from this side now. And again, this is only because I do not have the EZ Lube axles. This exact same kit that you see here that we're installing today does come as an EZ Lube axle kit. The only difference between these two is going to be the cap on the end. One's gonna give you access to be able to pop a rubber piece out to grease your bearings. The non-EZ Lube one just has a solid cap that doesn't give you that access. And that's what I'm gonna be using 'cause I don't have EZ Lubes, so I don't need the rubber plug that gives me access if I don't need access ever. All right. So we filled that cavity up to where it feels like it's nice and kind of smooth all the way up flush with our raise there. We can put some of that back in the container. And we're about ready to lift our assembly into place here. So I recommend kinda cleaning yourself up. We don't wanna get grease on the inside of our drum anywhere. We don't wanna contaminate anything on our brakes over there. So I'm gonna go ahead and get my hands wiped up, and then we'll get that into position. We're gonna take our outer bearing now and drop it down in the packer. And we're just gonna get it packed for now and leave it in the packer. 'Cause when we slide our assembly on there, we wanna quickly move it from the packer into the assembly here. So we're just gonna get it prepared. And we're packing this just like we did the inner bearing. This is just a smaller one. Our outer bearing is here. Double-checking, maybe a little bit more. Okay. That looks nice and packed for us. So we're just gonna set that there, so it's ready for us when we're ready. We're also gonna prepare our parts over there that we need to reuse. And the only parts that we really need to reuse are the nut located here and the washer located here. And all we're doing for preparation on these is cleaning 'em up. Get that old grease off of there. We don't want any contaminants in there. And if you're unsure what type of grease that you we're using here, then you would wanna make sure that you replace all the grease. 'Cause different types of grease are sometimes not compatible with one another, depending on their chemical properties. And they can actually cause one another to break down if they are using incompatible greases. So it's best to just kinda clean it all out. And we're upgrading, so that's why I'm cleaning this out. I just had regular wheel bearing grease. I worked for Ford for a while, so I was using Ford grease. We're gonna put marine grease in it now to help keep out corrosion and stuff. It's a bit of an upgrade. I like the marine grease a lot. All right. Now that all the pieces are ready, we'll lift our assembly up here. We wanna make sure we don't nick the seal, so we're gonna go straight in over this shaft here and try to get it all the way in without touching that seal. So I'm keeping an eye on it here as I go in, going straight in there till it slides into place nice and smooth like that. Now, we're gonna keep a little pressure on it here, 'cause if you let it off, you see it wants to kinda fall down. And we don't want it to fall down. It could potentially damage that seal. So we're gonna grab that bearing here that we had packed. I'd smeared a bunch of grease around the inside of that raise when we we're doing that, so we don't need to put it on the outside here. We know it's already greased on the other surface, and it's packed on the inside. Slide that into place on there. Grab your washer, get that on there. And then, get your nut on here. And now, we're just going to snug it down. We're gonna use our channel locks that we had used to remove it to tighten it with. And we're gonna get it all the way snug down. We're not gonna leave it like this. This is just to ensure that everything is fully seated. Give it a couple of rotations just to make sure that it is fully seated. That's great right there. Now, we'll back it off. And what we're looking for here is for it to pretty much just be kinda finger-tight, just right up on it, just like that. I started to feel a little bit of pressure. That's where I wanna stop just ever so slightly. So we're basically just going up to it until it kinda kisses. And now, we can reinsert our cotter pin. Might have to bend the ends of it there a little bit, just to make sure it stays. And we can get that pushed through. We'll then grab the end, fold it back over on itself. And at this point now, we can install our cap on the end. If you did have the EZ Lube axles, this is where you would want to fill it up with grease at this point on your fitting there on the end. Now, we've already filled the cavities in ours manually 'cause we don't have that. We've got our bearings packed, so we're good to go. Here's our new cap that comes with our assembly. So we'll go ahead and get that installed as well. And these caps can be pretty tight getting 'em on there. So just kinda try to work it on there. We're using our rubber mallet here, trying to keep it straight, 'cause it really likes to cock sideways when you gotta put these on here. And what we're trying to do here is get this to start. And then, we can use a screwdriver around the outer lip to get it the rest of the way there. Let's see if we can't, we got it started enough there and we can try and drive it in with the screwdriver. So now, we've got our screwdriver here, you can use it on the lip. See, if you don't have it started though, then it likes to move around the outside. The other option you have is you can reuse your old cap. That oftentimes inserts a little bit easier than these newer ones. And I actually usually prefer the old cap just 'cause I like to check my bearings and keep up on my greasing when I go to use it each season. And if it's hard to put in, it's hard to take out. The other option you have is if you're struggling real hard with that, we can go back to our block of wood here, and we can utilize this to help prevent from damaging our cap. There we go. So that worked out pretty well. I would probably recommend, it looks like there the block of wood method's probably the best one with these caps. 'Cause they're just so tight inside of these assemblies. There's a good chance that I may end up next time probably saving my old cap and putting this one back on. Just 'cause I know when I take this out, I don't like to fight it. The old ones stay fine. I've never had one get lost, and I know I can knock these out with a hammer without needing extra tools. But we do have it on there. It does look nice in its place compared to our beat-up old one. So at this point now, we are ready to perform the same procedure over on the other side if you need to replace that side as well. This does just come as a single assembly for one side, so you will need to purchase another set with your bearings here if you wanna do the other side. That's unlike the brake assembly that we put on here with the shoes. Those came as a pair, but the drum assemblies do not. So just keep that in mind. Now that we've got our assemblies completely replaced, if you're doing the other side, you can go ahead and do that one. Make sure afterwards to install your wheel and torque them to the manufacturer's specifications. And that completes our installation of etrailer's 10-inch by five on 4 1/2 galvanized drum assemblies..

Info for these parts were:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Randy B
Installed by:
Randy B
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H

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