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etrailer Trailer Idler Hub Assembly Review

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Review of the etrailer Trailer Idler Hub Assembly

Randy: Hey guys, it's Randy here at Now, if you've ever changed bearings and seals on a hub, you know it's a pretty dirty and messy job. What we've got put together is a kit. Basically, it's going to come pre-greased. You're going to get your hub, going to get your cap, you're going to get your lug nuts. Whether you've got the easy lube or the standard lube style hub.

We've got a kit for that. And everything is going to come pre-greased. So you don't have to pack your bearings. You don't have to pack your hub. Basically, you'll just take your old hub assembly off.

You'll either have a castle nut on the end of it, or you'll have a regular nut with this spring keeper. You slide that off and clean up your spindle. Make sure it's in good quality shape. Make sure there's no Mars or anything.We'll explain that a little bit more in the install process. But after that you're sliding the new one on you're putting your parts back on.

You're putting your washer back on, your nut back on. And it really solves that problem of having to have grease on hand, having to have rubber gloves. You're not getting it all over your hands and basically making a huge mess. I like this assembly because everything is going to be brand new. We've got brand new wheel studs.

We're going to have brand new lug nuts that come with it and match. The Hub's going to be new, so if there's any damage inside, like a lot of times on our seal portion back here or where our bearings right here, if you've had a previous failure. Some of that metal gets in there and it can tear up those surfaces. So by getting rid of that and putting a new one on it's going to be something that lasts a lot longer.You're not going to have to worry about taking it out, re greasing it, putting new bearings in it. And then putting it back together. Essentially, from the spindle out, everything's going to be brand new, fresh, and ready to go. So as long as your axle is in good shape, it's going to be like a brand new assembly. Now, if you go with the easy lube style, your cap is going to be a little bit different than the one we've got on here. It's going to have the rubber plug in it. Essentially, you're able to pull that out and get to your greaser. To add a little bit more grease. With the standard style, this won't have the greaser on the end of the spindle. So just cap that off, just like that. Now, when we compare this hub to other hubs that are just like it. There's one that comes to mind, it's from Dexter.It's going to have basically the exact same components to it. Nothing changes with the exception of this one already has the grease in it. And it uses the blue grease, which is going to be a more corrosion resistant grease. It helps to keep moisture and things out. So that's my preferred grease to go to. And you won't have to worry about again, packing the bearings and then making that match. You won't have to buy a bearing packer if you don't want to pack them by hand. And you can rest assured knowing that everything's done the way it should be done. It's going to slide right on, just put your washer and your nut back on. And then you're ready to go.Now, they're going to be two ways to determine which spindle you have. In these 2000 pound axles, you'll either have a BTR spindle or a BT8 spindle. And we're going to list in the description specifically, which of these hubs fits which spindle. If you want to do the measurement before you take your hub assembly off. You need to measure your grease seal area right here. You can't measure the grease seal, but you have to measure that seal area where it rides. If it's 1.5 inches or an inch and a half, the BTR spindles is what you're looking for. If that measures an inch and a quarter the BT8 spindle is what you're looking for. Now, once we get this off here in the install process, I'll show you how to measure your spindle as well. And double confirm that just to make sure. But if you don't want to have your spindle off while you're waiting a few days for us to get you your parts. If you measure that seal surface, where that seal rides. It'll give you a great indication of which one you've got.Now, as far as installing a hub on your axle, it's really straightforward. You need some very basic tools. What I like to use is a dead blow hammer. This is for knocking our grease cap off. Then we got a pair of channel locks for the larger nut that we're going to remove. And then you're going to have a keeper. This one's a spring keeper. This one, I put a screwdriver in behind, and you can pop that off that way. You may also have a nut that has little, almost looks like a castle top that sticks up. It's called a castle nut. It'll have a Cotter pin that goes through it. I'll use needle-nose for that to straighten that Cotter pin out and eventually pull it out.Once you've got your old one removed, you need to inspect your spindle. Basically, what we're going to be looking for is any discoloration. Anything that looks like heat treat when it gets that purple or that green coloration to it. You want to make sure your bearing surfaces, so this would be one area our bearings going to sit. This is the other one you want to make sure that's free of defects. There's no scarring. There's no cracking. And you also want to make sure the seal surface, which is going to be right here. That it's nice and clean and there's no gaps in it. If there's any gaps, basically what'll happen. Your grease is just going to run out behind there.And also in this size spindle, you're going to have two options there. One's the BT8, one's the BTR. The only difference is a slight size increase on the areas our bearings run. So this one's a BTR. This is the larger we use a micrometer. This is going to come in at 1.06. It's going to be the same here and here. Now you will have some that are 0.99. And you can see there's a very minimal difference between 0.99, which is right there to the actual 0.06. So be sure you get a good measurement on this. I recommend picking up the cheap set of calipers to do it. Because using a tape measure, it's just not going to get you there. But once we've determined, which of those hubs we're going to need, that's when we'll get them ordered.And you'll see with the pre-greased hub, it's going to come in a box, of course, but it also comes in a bag. I liked that a lot. Keeps out any dirt, debris, moisture, things like that. We'll pull our caps off each side here. See, there's our seal already in place. Our pre-greased bearing. Now, when you take this one off, the bearing sits freely in underneath there. So just don't let that fall out. But that's why I liked this kit so much. It's a matter of pulling it out of the bag and sliding it on this spindal. All that dirty work of packing bearings and packing the hub. We just don't have to do.Let's get that lined up, slide it in. And our seal is going to go all the way up on that seal point. See, just like that, it'll come to a stop. You'll feel it stop right there. And we'll grab our washer. That's something you're going to save off your axle. And place that on. Also got our hub nut. And that's something you're going to save of your axle as well as the keeper. And now I'm going to use this to get everything pushed in there.And when I get that all the way in, I like to snug it up quite a bit. Gives you a little resistance here. And then we back it off, just a touch. It's going to free that up. We don't want this to move in and out at all. But we don't need this so tight that it causes it to drag. Once that's set where we want it, we're either going to align the hole in the spindle, put our Cotter pin through. We're put our spring keeper on. It's just going to depend on the axle you get. And that should go in and sit all the way down and flush. Now at that point. We're ready to get our grease cap put on.Now, depending on whether you go with the easy lube style or non easy loop style, that's going to change the way your grease cap is going to look. This one does not have a grease suck on the end. So this one's going to use a standard grease cap. If there was a greaser suck that stuck out to the end here. Where you can put your grease going on there and put new grease in. Then will you want to use this one. So we've got that plastic cap or that rubber cap. We can just pull off an access it. So go with whichever one you've got there.Then it's just going to be a matter of setting this inside. There's just a little bit of a bevel there on the hub, little bit of a bevel here. I'm going to get that set in there and then just start tapping it in. It may take you a couple times to get it squared up properly. And we'll just tap that all the way around. No gap around there. Your installation's going to be done. You're ready to move over to the other side, do the same thing there. I think you can see why I really like this setup with it coming pre-grease. You save yourself a lot of the hassle and a lot of the mess that comes with it. So if you've got bearings that are in need of replacement, you've got a damaged hub. I think this is going to be an excellent solution for you..

Info for these parts were:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Randy B
Installed by:
Randy B
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D

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