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Husky Center Line Weight Distribution System Review

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Review of the Husky Center Line Weight Distribution System


Today we're going to show the Husky Center Line Weight Distribution System with Sway Control, part number HT32218. The Center Line Weight Distribution System work for a variety of trucks and trailers. They work with tongue weight of 800 pounds up to 1,200 pounds. It also has a gross towing weight of 12,000 pounds. This is what the center Line system looks like in typical application. The parts that you will see starting off of by the hitch will the shank assembly right here.

The shank goes into the head assembly right here. From the head assembly, it does include 2-5/16 inch ball and also the spring bars that go out to our trailer. At the end of our spring bar we have our frame bracket here which is clamped on to the frame. This spring bar rest on and tension actually holds it in place to keep it from popping out. If anything unexpected happens we have the safety clip here to help keep things under control. We'll go ahead and take a look at our components a little more detail now starting once again up by the shank here.

This adjustable shank is designed to work for 2 inch by 2 inch opening. We'll use a 5/8 inch hitch pin or your favorite locking hitch pin as well. We have our shank in drop position where the adjustment holes are going down towards the bottom. We had a situation where the trailer is a little bit higher that we had here, we can easily flip this over as well. It'll work just fine. Also the total height adjustment on the shank will be about 4-1/2 inches.

The maximum rise will be about 5-1/2 inches and the maximum drop will be about 1-1/4 inches. Our next stop is our head assembly here with our hitch ball already installed from the factory and also the beginning of our trunnion for our bars. To attach 2 adjustable shank by using these 2 bolts here and lock that with some washers. No special washers or anything like that, they just have a tilt built in to the head assembly already. Now the tilt is controlled by these washers right up in here. This component here goes up against our adjustable shank and had 3 washers behind that, that controls the tilt of the head.

Again, this is a typical installation. The amount of washer shown here may not be used in your own typical application. Next stop, the area where our spring bars go into the head assembly right here. This is actually a 2-piece system. This is actually come apart after you take off this clip right here. It comes apart for easy storage when you're not using it. Now this whole assembly has a tight fit to it. It has to move back and forth. It has a lot of resistance to it. That's actually part of the anti sway system. We'll take a quick look at the construction of the bar itself. It starts off as a round bar up on the head assembly then tapers down towards the back. The spring bars is constructed from heat treated steel construction, it also allows it to be flexible as well. It looks like a stout piece of material right here but it does flex and gives you nice, smooth, even ride going down the road. We'll go ahead and take a look at the taper on our spring bar, especially where it interacts with our bracket here on the side of the frame. This does 2 things, 1, this suspense bar puts tension on it so it takes away of the tongue of the trailer up also provides another component of the anti sway system. As you're going down the road, going around corners and turns this bar will actually slide back and forth. This continuous contact will also provide anti sway to the truck and trailer. This entire bracket assembly actually clamps on to the trailer so there's no drilling necessary. The clamp has a bolt on top and a bolt on the bottom. Then this assembly right here is completely adjustable. Do you see the roller poles here going all the up to this part here It also allow to tuck. These 2 screws here adjust the height. You can actually find between the strengths of bars with this as well. You may need more tension and less tension depending on your set up, or if the load in your trailer actually changes. As you can see how our assembly just clamps to the frame. Now you also notice I made 2 yellow marks here and here. There is a set measurements for these bars to go onto the trailer. These 2 marks show how much adjustability we have on the system. We can move it back and forth to accommodate any other accessories on the tongue of the trailer such as the gas tanks, or maybe some other bracket or accessory on the frame rail. We could actually have the center of this bolt on this line or this line, whichever works out best. One last detail on the sway control bracket is the measurements we made on our trailer start from the center of the ball and then out towards the frame. In this case we have a minimum of 28-1/2 inches and a maximum of 30-1/2 inches. You can check your trailer to make sure that this system will work for you. Also with this part number you get a specialized tool to help you take the system on and off when you don't need to pull your trailer. Since we have the tool handy let's go ahead and show you how to take it apart when you don't need it and we'll also show how to put it together. Now as we take it apart we'll also show some more details in how it works. Anytime you take a weight distribution assembly apart, step number 1 is always take the weight off the spring bars makes everything safer. For us, we get an electric jack. Now don't be surprised when thing gets a little spooky when you're picking up everything because you didn't take the weight up and pick it up a lot. To make it easy, take the spring bars off. Step 2, now we can go ahead and release our spring bars. Once the weight is safe to be taken off, we can also take off our retainer here. Put it off and out of the way, put the clip back in with it then we can use our special tool to remove it. Do you see this edge right here on the bottom We need to put that right here. This will going to have a lot of tension on it, so just slowly pick up and bring it back towards you. It will rest on this part right here. Then work the tool out of the way and it's released. After you do this for the first time, it might be a good idea to get a roundabout measurement from the top down to the ground so you know how high to pick it up. To remove our spring bar, we can go ahead and pull up back out. Remember it's going to be under a bit of tension but you can move it. Then we need to remove the clip that holds the bar in place. Then you can pull out the bar. At the end of our bar here has a detent in it, so when you put it back together you're going to have the right spot every time once the system is in the detent. Once you have one side done, simply repeat the same process on the other side. At this point we can go ahead and lower everything back down with the jack. Once you have the weight back on the hitch ball without the spring bars now you can go ahead and disconnect. If we didn't have weight distribution let's go ahead and take a look. We'll do it by measuring from the wheel down to the ground. Our original measurement is 34-1/2 inches. With the trailer on there, we're down to just under 33. 32-3/4. We should also pay attention to the front end as well. Our original measurement was 33-3/4. Take a look, it actually went up. We went up about 3/4 of an inch. What that tells us, weight is actually taken off the front of the vehicle so that'll affect handling as well. We want to keep t6hat in the same place as close as possible when we're towing. Give me a few moments, we'll go ahead and put everything back together. Let's see how big of a difference it makes. Now we're ready to use it and go down the road, putting it back together is almost the same as taking it apart except we use the tool just a little bit differently. We'll push it back into place. You want to look the truck and trailer will be almost the same height as the bracket. You can set it lower a little bit, it'll be just fine. We take our tool, we take this end of our tool and put it in this square hole. You can do that underneath our spring bar, then we pick it up and put the spring bar in place. Then we remove our tool and then we put our retainer clip back in. That's all it takes. One more time on the side. Now will be a good time to go ahead and hook up your trailer with your electrical cord, your safety chains and your breakaway cable. At this point, we can go ahead and lower it down, we're ready to go. Let's get the new measurement. Just under 34 inches. We're only a half inch away from our original measurement which is good. We could actually get away with a little bit more or maybe at a maximum about an inch and a half. Let's go and check the front wheel. Our front wheel is back to its original height, 33-3/4. Actually maybe it smidges down a little bit. That's just what we want. Let's go ahead and take a second look at our truck and trailer with everything hooked up, we can see how nice and level it is. Our truck has been sitting in a straight line and also our RV behind it is nice and level and ready to go down the road. Without the spring bars, you can see how the back of the truck sags down a little bit and the nose of our trailer is actually pointing towards the ground. You can also notice the front of the truck points up a little bit as well. Not an ideal towing situation. Since we got everything hooked up we'll go ahead and take it for a short test drive. We'll see how the weight distribution interacts between the truck and trailer. First we'll show an overview shot of how everything works together as we go down the road. Next, we're going to take a closer look at how the spring bar works the bracket on the trailer. We could see as we take sharp turns we don't have to worry about the spring bar falling out the side. We'll make a series of S turns and we can see how it works back and forth. Even on a sharp turn, almost 90 degrees, everything works just fine. Now we'll go ahead and take a look how the truck and trailer handles overall going down the road. We'll make a couple of sharp left and right turns, and you can see how the trailer tracks right behind the truck. That's due to the fact of the sway control working, with its constant friction on the trailer and also once properly set up and make the truck and trailer handle almost like one. With that, that'll finish up our review of the Husky Center Line Weight Distribution with Sway Control, part number HT32218.