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Kodiak Disc Brake Kit Review

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Review of the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit


Hi there, trailer owners. Today, we're going to be taking a look at Kodiak's line of Dacromet Finish disc brake conversion kits. These kits will include your rotor, your caliper, and your caliper bracket. The kits are designed for different axle weight ratings. So you do wanna verify the axle weight rating that you have. To help you find out which axle size you have, you can actually look on your axle.

We're looking at the sticker located on our axle on this trailer right here, and you can see towards the bottom down here it says, that this is an 8,000 pound axle. And you also wanna verify the bolt pattern as well as your bearing sizes, because you need to know all those things. So that way, you can get the correct rotor assembly here that will slide right onto your existing axle. You also need to know all that because you will need to purchase a bearing kit. For determining the correct bearings, you wanna look at the backside of your existing bearings.

So we can see here after cleaning them off, these are 02475 for this particular trailers. This is the old one. So we wanna make sure we get a bearing kit that's going to match our rotors and our spindle that's on our trailer. So we know that this is the right size that's gonna match our trailer. Now, as far as your lug pattern goes, you just wanna make sure that's the same on the rotor kit here as your old existing drum.

Though it will likely have to measure those to determine the correct one. They are fairly common sized depending on the axle size, but I do recommend measuring again 'cause it can be some slight differences for various trailers out there. The way you measure does vary a little bit, depending if it's a five lug versus a four, or an eight, like you see here. But we have facts here at etrailer to help you with assistance on measuring your lug pattern. So let's take a closer look at our rotor and caliper assemblies here.

One of the biggest reasons you wanna upgrade from your old drum assembly to these is because of the increased stopping power that you're gonna get with this. This is gonna decrease the distance it takes for your vehicle to come to a stop. It's gonna have a smoother operation than your drum brakes will, and they're gonna last longer, and they're a lot easier to maintain in the long run. The decreased stopping distance and increased power comes from having an increased surface area of contact. We've got a large area here on both sides of our rotor, and a very large contact surface on our brake pad here. And there's one on each side. And then our clamping force that receives high hydraulic pressure gives us a very large amount of area here to grab onto, to slow our trailer down. With drums here, we've got shoes that's spread apart on a pivot point. So we can see our magnet here. When our brakes apply, this energizes, the magnet gets energized, and it actually grabs on the inside of the drum here on this space, and that'll push this and it will spread our shoes apart here, and then we're gonna get contact against the inside of the drum with each of those shoes. The problem is you see if they're kind of round, they only wear on kind of like this smaller section. They don't really get contact all the way around the shoe. So you don't have nearly as much surface area of contact, and the pressure is just not the same because this one here is getting pulled in one direction, and it forces the other one out to apply for both the shoes. But with the clamping force you from the hydraulic pressure, it's so much higher and we've got more surface area. It's gonna work just a whole lot better than what we've got with our drum here. Our rotor assembly here is gonna be less maintenance, and you can see there's a lot less going on. We've got just a rotor that rotates as you're driving down the road, that's similar to your drum. But with our actual moving mechanisms over here, you can just have a piston that moves with hydraulic pressure to squeeze the pads together. There are some slide pins on it that our caliper can rotate on, so you can see here, so that way it's free. And it needs to be free to be able to slide. So when we're just cruising down the road, we don't have any contact between our pad and our rotors. We're not dragging. If we look at our drum, look at the whole mess of parts that we've got going on here. So again, we talked about how this energizes, it'll move forward and that'll force our shoes into our drum to apply them. And then when they de-energize, you got all these springs here that pulls everything back. So that way we don't have them dragging when we're just going down the road. But when you adjust the drum brake, you do adjust it with a very subtle amount of drag, and that's required in order to get the proper pressure we need to apply. So you've got a little bit, just a little tiny bit of drag on a drum here versus a rotor that has none. So when you're not applying the brakes, it should increase your fuel economy just a little bit because of that drag. Another thing that's nice is our rotor suit don't require any adjustment. "Cause the hydraulic pressure will just squeeze those pads together. And then once you're not applying the brakes anymore, that hydraulic pressure will go back up into the system. It releases, and our pads just spread apart. With our drum assembly down here, it has to end that subtle bit of drag on it to begin with. And over time as the pads wear down, it needs to adjust itself, and that's what this little wheel does here. To ensure that you always have that slight bit of drag, because there's not nearly as much movement here to apply all these. These adjustments here, while they do work, they do tend to fail because if you got a lot of parts here, there's a lot of brake dust that can get inside this assembly since it's all housed inside the drum. A lot of dirt can get up in here, and then this just may not adjust. And then you've got power reduction because one of your drums here isn't applying. We don't really ever get that with a rotor assembly because there's none of those extra moving parts. It's just pressure comes back. It applies, and then it releases. So with that simpler design, comes less problems. Rotors also have reduced maintenance compared to a drum setup. Now drums do typically last a lot longer, but the only reason they last longer as far as their pad wear, is because they're not adjusting and they're not applying very much pressure. They're not doing nearly as much work. But if you want a system that does its work and does its job well, then this is a better option. Now when it comes down to replacing the pads, once it gets to that time, our pads here can be removed by simply taking off the two bolts here. There's one on the back of the caliper here, and there's one down here. Once both bolts are removed, the caliper slides off, and then you can simply just slide your pads out and slide your new ones on, and then put it back together. With a drum assembly, in order to change out your shoes here, and that's assuming that you've been diligent and made sure they're adjusted, and once they get to that point where they wear down, you have to remove your drum. Well, to remove the drum, you have to take out your bearings here and disassemble all this. And now you're at a point where you're gonna probably be repacking some bearings. And that only gets you to the point where you can get here to your shoe assembly. Now you have to disassemble all these springs and components here to get these shoes off. Remember where everything goes. Hopefully, you have all the correct tools to do so. This is an adjustment tool here for going in the backside and adjusting it once you're done, because you have to do all manual adjustments on this. At least for the first time set up, your automatic adjuster takes in after that. But you really do have a lot of special tools that's required for these components. There's spring tools that are available, that help you get these off and back into position. And there are a lot of times on them there's various springs you have to push in, and then twist to decompress to get your shoes off. So there's a lot of different parts here that you really don't wanna have to mess with. And I recommend taking a picture if you're gonna be doing it yourself. But this here, you don't even need to take a picture. It's so simple. Two bolt slides on. Everything just kind of makes sense when you look at it. Like this caliper, you're looking at it and go, it can only go on this one way. But this here is just a mess. So avoid all that extra work and poor performance from a drum system and switch over to a disc brake system here for that increased performance, that decreased stopping distance, and that overall lifetime of much easier maintenance. These disc brake conversion kits are available in a few different types of coating. You can get it in a raw finish, an e-coat finish, or a Dacromet finish like we're showing off here today. I like the Dacromet finish because it looks like it's a raw finish. You get kinda that metal look to it, but you get the corrosion protection properties of the e-coat. And the e-coat has more of a black kinda painted look to it. And over time, it can wear off certain areas, and to me, it just doesn't look as good. The Dacromet looks good for a really long time, and you get all that corrosion resistance properties from it. These kits come in a quantity of two, so you'll get enough to complete one axle's worth of installation. So if you've got multiple axles, you wanna make sure you pick up a kit for each axle, and then to complete your set up, you're also gonna need your hydraulic lines. We've got line kits available here in various lengths, and for various amount of axles. Whether you have a single tandem or triple, and you'll need your hydraulic actuator. I recommend this one here from Hydrastar, as well as a line kit from Hydrastar. And you wanna make sure you have an actuator that's rated with high enough pressure for a disc brake system, which this one here does. And it has a 1600 PSI output for disc brakes. Oftentimes, your drum brakes, if they we're a hydraulic setup, would have a 1200 PSI or less. So you wanna make sure you've got that 1600 psi for a caliper to properly activate. And that completes our look at Kodiak's line of Dacromet Finish disc brake conversion kits..


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F

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