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Malone MicroSport Trailer with Bike and J-Pro Carrier Review

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Review of the Malone MicroSport Trailer with Bike and J-Pro Carrier

Colin: Hey, everyone. It's Colin here at etrailer. Today we're going to take a look at one of our Malone MicroSport trailer kits. Now, in this kit, you're going to get the MicroSport trailer itself. You're going to get two J-Pro kayak carriers from Malone, two Pilot bike racks from Malone, and the spare tire kit.The unique thing about this trailer is that it's basically a roof rack on wheels. You can get two of your kayaks and two of your bikes loaded to be transported to and from your destination, and you're not going to have to worry about investing in a hitch-mounted bike rack as well as a couple of kayak carriers to put on your roof.

You're also not adding height to your roof.With the combination of two kayaks and two bikes that we have on our trailer, that's something that won't fit on a lot of roof rack applications. It might not fit due to the crossbar size on your roof or, honestly, with this combination, it probably would go over the weight limit on a lot of applications. We can get two kayaks and two bikes loaded and towed to and from our destination safely. We're going to have 78-inch-long crossbars on our trailer, and that's going to be plenty of space to get both of our bikes and kayaks loaded. You can see we still have good spacing between each of the carriers.Now, the Pilot bike racks from Malone are going to be one of the more versatile roof bike racks that they have.

You can see we have two different bikes loaded just to show you how they hold them. They can fit fat-tire bikes like we have right here with tires up to four and a half inches wide. Then, for our road bike tires, it's going to have a little slot in the middle of the cradle that the tire can sit into to be more secure, as well as there's going to be different notches for the straps so they can come inside the cradle and secure the tire rather than the other notches which will come around for the fat-tire bikes.On both bike racks, we are going to have a wheel hook, which has a nice foam padding around it. It's going to help protect your bike tires from any type of scratches or abrasions. That's going to put downward force on top of both of our bike tires, forcing it down into the cradles.

The great thing about these hooks is that you can't get them off of your tires without the key. It's going to lock automatically to your tire. It's going to be a lock cylinder down here. Then we'll just grab our included key, insert that into the cylinder. Once we turn it, it's going to release the hook from the track right here, and we can raise it up off of our tire when we need to unload.Now, when it comes to unloading all of our equipment, it's going to be a lot easier to get it off of our trailer rather than having to pick it up and get it off of our roof.

Now, with our J-style carriers, it's going to be more effective for creating space on our trailer. If we had any type of saddle carriers, we probably wouldn't be able to fit our bike racks on here as well. Like I said, it's just easier to load and unload these kayaks with it at your chest level rather than having to get it up on your roof.The carrier is going to come with all the straps you need to secure it, and we're also going to have nice foam padding on the bottom of our carrier right here. You can see it making contact with the kayak right there. That's just going to help protect our kayak from any type of damage. We're also going to have some foam pads with hook-and-loop sleeves on the backside right here which, again, is going to help protect our hull from any type of scratches or abrasions. It's also going to be much easier to secure our straps. I can access every point where we need to run that strap. I don't have to risk climbing up on my vehicle just to try to get my kayak secured.The trailer's going to be very easy to hook up and unhook from your vehicle. At the end of the day, you might have been on the water a lot, you might have been on the trails right after. The last thing you want to do is have to unload your kayaks and your bikes, whether you've got a bike rack or a roof rack, from your vehicle. Nice thing about this is, with how easy it is to unload, we'll just flip up the lock on our coupler, take off our safety chains, and then unhook our wiring.From there, we have a handle integrated onto our coupler. It's got a nice rubber handle to it. We can just pick it up and then we can just push it into our garage, and it's going to be ready to go for next time. We don't have to worry about taking up all our straps and getting our bikes unloaded either. Like I said, it will have that 800-pound weight capacity. With our current load, we're not even close to that. However, I would recommend getting an extra set of hands if you are close to that if you're attempting to move your trailer like this.Now we've got our trailer inside our garage and unloaded so we can have a closer look at it. This trailer is going to have an all-galvanized-steel construction to it, just going to be very durable. It's going to resist rust and corrosion. It's going to be a lot better than some of those other trailers that might have plastic components to them. Those components might wear out a lot quicker or even break sooner, which means you're going to have to replace them. Not going to be the case with this trailer. It's going to last a long time.I also really like how easy the wiring was to assemble with this trailer. There was no really splicing involved. We didn't have to run it through some tubing on the frame. It's open on the inside. We just had to run it all the way through. We have the provided clips to get the wiring nice and neat. Then when it comes to getting it connected to our lights, we can just use the easy bullet connectors that come with the trailer. All it is, plug it in, and it's going to be ready to go.Both the tires that come with the trailer, as well as the spare tire, are going to rated for speeds up to 75 miles per hour, so we're going to do just fine on the highway. We're also going to have the steel fenders covering our tires. That's going to help prevent them from throwing a lot of dirt and debris up onto our kayaks or bikes. We're going to have two leaf springs connected to our axle with some U-bolts. That's going to help absorb a lot of the impacts that we may encounter on the road. It's also going to do a great job of absorbing all that road vibration when traveling at highway speeds.We mounted our spare tire at the part of the frame where the tongue meets the rest of the frame. That's going to be the most surface contact for our tire to sit on. We're going to have a U-bolt coming up from the bottom of the frame of our trailer, makes contact right below, and then we're going to have two bolts come out from both lug nut holes. We have some threaded brackets that are tightened down, making sure that our tire stays secure on our trailer. We're also going to have an optional theft-deterrent system. You can just get a simple padlock and run it through both of those brackets. That's going to make sure no one can take those off and steal your spare tire.Now, both of our bike racks and kayak carriers are going to install the exact same way. It's going to use the same bracket and bolt assembly. What we're going to do is drop the head of our bolt through there. You would do the same with the kayak. Then we just bring our rubber-coated bracket up and over the bolt. We'll take our washer, put it over the bolt, hold it there, and then thread on our wing nut. We'll get that all the way up to where it's making contact. Do the same on both sides, and then we can tighten it down.Our LED lighting system is going to be very bright. It's going to make sure that it's visible even during the day when the sun is out. Under our driver side tail light, we also will have another light which is illuminating our license plate, making sure that that's visible at night as well. There's also going to be two amber side marker LED lights that are going to make for great auxiliary safety lights while we're on the road.Now, as far as the frame of the trailer goes, it may take you a little while. You might want to set aside an hour and a half to two hours to get it put together, but don't get overwhelmed. There is going to be a lot of different parts and a lot of different hardware. Just keep that all separate and use it when the instructions call for it. It's not going to be too difficult. Now that we've gone over all of that, let's show you guys how to put this trailer together.Now, the first thing we did was we set up the frame how it's going to be put together. You might notice that we do have it upside-down. We're going to put it together that way so that it's a little bit easier to get the spring and axle assembly installed.Now, the first thing we want to do is get the brackets for our spring and axle assembly installed. The C-shaped ones are going to go on the back of our trailer, while the U-shaped ones go on the front. They're all going to bolt together the same way. You can see, right here, just the two holes on the frame of the trailer. The bracket sits right on top. Then we just drop a couple of bolts through the bracket and the frame of the trailer. Take a couple of lock nuts and thread them on. You want to make sure you're installing the nut lock nuts on the inside of the frame of the trailer. Now we'll just grab our wrench and socket and tighten it down.Now, at the front end of the tongue of our trailer, we're going to feed our wiring. That's going to go all the way through the tongue and towards the frame of the trailer. How we know that we have the front end is, one, there's a sticker right here. The warning sticker is going to go towards the front of the tongue. They also have that triangle set of holes right there. That also lets us know it's the front. We're just going to let gravity do the work and just feed the wire all the way through.Now we have it out the other end. Just going to feed it through the connecting bracket right here. Just leave it right there. Now we're going to take the bolts included in our kit. This is going to be the longest bolt of your assembly. We're just going to pull the frame, line it up inside that bracket. Because our trailer is upside-down right now, we're going to pick it up and then feed it through the bottom like just like that. Now we'll get a flat washer and a lock nut. All we're going to do is hand-tighten it for now.Now we have the bracket slid in. We're just going to get the carriage bolts installed on the bracket. On the inside, go flat washer and lock nut. Just like the bracket bolt, we're just going to hand-tighten it for now. Then repeat this for the other side. Now we'll just apply a flat washer to our bolts and feed them through the two slots connecting the tongue of our trailer to the frame. Go flat washer on both sides again, and then hand-tighten our lock nuts. With our carriage bolts, we're now going to get the center beams installed on the frame with the lock nuts on the inside, just hand-tightened. Make sure you go around and get the other six hand-tightened as well.Now we're going to go around and get all of the bolts tightened down. We're going to start here at the back with the carriage bolts on the center beams in our frame and then make our way up towards the tongue of the trailer.Now we can go ahead and assemble our spring and axle assembly. There's going to be a bolt right here goes into the hole on our axle. Then we'll put the U-bolt plate on that knob. We'll bring our U-bolts up through the bottom and then put two lock nuts on. Do our second U-bolt. Now we'll just tighten everything down. Now we'll repeat this process for the other side, making sure we set the spring in the exact same formation.Now we'll set our assembly in place, making sure to get the flat part of the springs into the C-brackets and then the eye holes of our springs into the U-brackets. Now we'll feed the bolts through the eyes of our springs. Put the lock nut on. Hand-tighten on both sides.Now we're ready to get our wheels installed while the frame is still upside down. I'm going to take our hubcap first and slide it through the back of the wheel like so. It'll catch on the sides. We'll put it on the axle of our trailer. Now we can get our lug nuts hand-tightened. Now, in a star pattern, we'll go around and tighten down all of our lug nuts. Then repeat this process for the other side.Now we're going to get the lights and brackets assembled. The brackets right here are going to go on the side of our trailer. Then you see the big hole right there is where our light is going to go, so just put it on the side, stick a couple bolts in there. We'll also puts some lock nuts on and tighten them down. On the driver side of your trailer, don't forget, once you get the bolts through the slots, to put your license plate holder on there as well.I will plug in the wiring from the tongue of our trailer to the wiring that's going to go back to our lights. From there, just make sure you run the appropriate wires to the appropriate lights. Then don't forget to clip your wiring to the sides to make sure it stays out of the way. Now you will have a little bit left over right by the bracket which is connecting both the sides. However, make sure you don't get the two heads right here inside the tongue of the trailer. That bow right there is to prevent them from being pulled by the other side and disconnecting your wires. If you want, you could just grab a zip tie, put it right there, and then zip tie it up to clean it up a little bit.Now, when installing the brackets on your fenders, we're just going to set it from the bottom. Apply our bolts through the top, hold them there, and then apply our lock nuts. Then repeat this for the other side.Now, with a flat head screwdriver, we're going to hold the other side of the bolt in place and then tighten down all four bolts. Now with a flat washer and a bolt, we're just going to feed it through that center hole right there and then apply another flat washer and a lock nut. Do that for both sides. Now we'll just tighten up all the bolts.Now on to our coupler and the safety chains. We'll get the safety chains installed first. We have a flat washer and the the ends of our two chains on there. We'll push it up through that bracket and hold it there. Then we'll just apply a flat washer and a lock nut. Just get that threaded on there and tightened down. Now we'll tighten it down all the way.Now, with our coupler, we'll just set that down and line it up with the holes. Before we install the bolts, you want to pick which side the handle goes on. Doesn't necessarily matter too much, just whatever you feel more comfortable with. We'll apply the bolt through the handle and then through the coupler. Get it all the way through and then the other bolts. Then apply lock nuts to the other side. Now we'll tighten everything down.Now we're going to start assembling our upper deck with the crossbars. The support bar is going to go one on the back end of the trailer. The other one's going to go about 48 inches up towards the front. We'll just drop our U-bolts on top, bring the plate, and then we'll put two lock nuts on. Once you have it set where you want it, we'll tighten everything down.Now we have one of our crossbars just sitting on top of the support bar right here. We're going to take these brackets. It's going to go over top like so. Make sure you line up the bottom holes. We'll feed a bolt all the way through. Then we'll put a lock nut on there. Now, with the cross bar, what we're going to do is that's going to come straight up, and the second bolt's going to sit right under it. Do this for both sides. Then we'll go around and tighten all four bolts. Now, on both your crossbars, be sure that the one hole on the outside of each side of the bar is facing towards the inside of the trailer.Now, our final step is going to be to get our D-rings installed in those holes. I'm just going to apply a flat washer and then put the bolt through there. Now I'm going to slide my finger in and line it up with that hole and then start to thread it on there. Once you've gone as far as you can with your hands, what I'm going to do is a nice little trick. Take a pair of needle-nose pliers. We're going to feed the pliers in and clamp down on that lock nut. Get a good grip. Now we'll tighten it down. Doesn't have to be super tight. You can see it's pretty snug. Now just repeat this step for all the other sides and then put your end caps on.Well, thank you all for watching. That's going to do it for our look at the Malone MicroSport sport trailer.

Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for this part was:

Employee Andrew K
Video by:
Andrew K
Employee Colin H
Installed by:
Colin H
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K

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