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MaxxAir MaxxFan Roof Vent with 12V Fan Installation

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How to Install the MaxxAir MaxxFan Roof Vent with 12V Fan


Ron: How's it going, everybody Ron here, at etrailer.com. Today, we're going to be taking a look at the MaxxFan Roof Vent with 12-volt Fan. Now, this vent is going to be available with a smoked lid and a white lid. Here, we have the smoked lid and you can see, even with it closed, it is going to allow a little bit of natural light to come through.Now, our MaxxFan is going to have a manual lift and it's going to be an exhaust-only fan, so it's only going to have one direction. It's going to be really great for bathrooms, like we have it in here, or even anywhere, really just where you want to get more air circulation and get that stale air out. So, it'd be great for RVs, campers, motor homes, or even just some utility trailers that you want to get that extra air out.To open up the lid, we'll simply just pull down on the knob to unlock it.

To open it, we're just going to turn it counterclockwise. As you can see, a lot more light's starting to come in and it'll allow all that stale air to come out. Now, it's going to have four speeds on the fan and we'll have a nice flush-mounted button here, so that way we don't have anything extra sticking out. It'll just have a nice clean look to it.If we turn the fan on, it's going to go right back to the original speed that we had it on. But we'll be able to switch between four different speeds.

We'll have low, one, two, three, and four. So right now, it's on low and you can hear, it's pretty quiet. Even as we turn it up, the fan itself is pretty quiet. You can hear the air moving, but the fan is not making a whole lot of noise. Now, the nice thing that I really like about this is, is sometimes we don't really want the air to come out, but we just want to circulate some of that air.

Well, if we close the lid and turn the fan back on, it's going to act more like a ceiling fan and circulate the air, since it can't go anywhere. So we turn the fan back on. Even on high, I can start to feel the air kind of circulating around in here. Even on low, I can still feel a good amount of air moving.Now, one thing I do want to mention about our fan, although it is going to be great for bathrooms, you don't want to mount it directly above a shower, a tub, or if you're putting it in the living quarters, you don't want to put it directly above a range, because we don't want too much moisture getting into the fan. And again, it's in the bathroom, there is going to be moisture in the air, but we don't want direct water getting on there.Now obviously, the roof vent is on the roof.

And typically if we're in a campground, there may be trees around with a lot of leaves, plus all the bugs flying around. Well, this screen here is going to protect the inside of our camper, keep all that stuff out. And there is going to be a time where things may start to fall inside, but these little tabs here are going allow us to take the screen out pretty easily, and just turn it, going around to each corner, turn those tabs. And then we can pull the screen down and easily clean it, so we don't have to worry about any of those leaves or bugs getting inside.And now that the screen's off, you can actually take a closer look at the fan itself. It's going to be a 12-inch diameter fan, and it's going to have 10 blades. Now, this is going to produce up to 900 CFMs, which is going to be really great again, for our bathroom, really to get all that air out. It's actually quite a bit of air movement for such a small space. Now, the fan obviously has to get power from somewhere and it's a 12-volt fan. So we're only going to have to worry about hooking up two wires, one power wire and one ground wire. Because it is a pretty basic fan, we're not going to have all those extra features like a rain sensor, or a thermostat to deal with, but just keep that in mind that you will want to close the lid whenever it is raining because we don't want any water to get inside.The motor inside the fan is a sealed ball bearing motor, so it's going to give us a nice, quiet, smooth operation. And it's only going to draw five amps. Now, our vent with fan is mounted on the roof, so obviously we're going to need a hole inside the roof. The vent is going to mount in a 14-inch square hole, which is a really common size for most vents and fans. So it will make a great replacement or upgrade for your existing fan. And here up top, we can see that our vent has a really clean, low profile look. It's only going to stick up four and a quarter inches with the lid closed. And when the lid is open, it's going to be 12 and one-quarter inches tall.Now, since the lid is open, we can really take a look. One thing I really like about this fan is that it has dual arms to hold the lid open. So whenever we're driving down the road, it's going to have a lot more stability than a single-arm system, so we don't have to worry about the lid flapping around in the wind, or when we're just driving down the highway. And one thing I do want to mention is our fan vent is made to fit roofs that are between two and six and a half inches thick. Now, that's a pretty common size and kind of a wide range for most campers trailers and RVs. The lid itself is going to be made out of a high-density polypropylene, so it's going to be resistant to most impacts, whether it's just pine cones falling from a tree or slight things like that. It also has a nice rubber seal around the edge here, so when the lid's closed, it's going to help prevent any kind of leaks from water getting inside.One thing I can really appreciate about the fan is the flange here. They made it out of a UV resistant ABS plastic, which is a lot better than metal, not because of the strength, but because when you go to install it, you don't have to worry about cutting yourself or potentially scratching anything. And here's the old vent that we replaced. It's really typical of a lot of older vents, having that metal flange. And I can tell you from personal experience, you do want to be extremely careful with these because these edges can be very sharp and cut you very easily. So it's just a really big benefit to have that plastic and just have to worry less about cutting yourself.And you'll probably notice these tabs on the end here of the flange and these are specifically made so that we can put the fan-mate vent cover over it, so we can leave the cover open even in rainy situations. And these tabs may get to where we're not going to have to worry about drilling anything or even using any tools to install it. And just keep in mind, the fan-mate vent cover is going to be sold separately, but you can find it here at etrailer.com.Now, our vent with fan is going to come with most of the necessary components to get it installed. It will include all the screws to mount it up and a few butt connectors to get your electrical connections made. However, you will want to pick up some butyl tape and some sealant so we can seal everything up on the roof side. Now, we do have a vet installation kit available here at etrailer.com. And that's what we used. Came with the screws, sealant and the butyl tape for underneath the flange.Now obviously, this is a roof vent, so we have to be on the roof of our camper. I do want to remind you that safety is a personal responsibility and you need to take any precautions you need to feel safe while installing this. But let's go in and go through the installation process together, so you can feel comfortable doing it at home.To begin our installation, you want to make sure you turn the power off to your motor home, camper, or whatever you're putting the vent in. You want to make sure the power is off. We already did that. You can see the fan's not coming on. But since we're in here, we're going to go ahead and remove the trim ring that's on the inside. Typically, there's going to be four screws, one in each corner, holding it in place. So, I'll just grab a Phillips screwdriver bit, and pull those four screws out. Now, if the trim ring's in good shape, you're going to want to hold on to it. The new kit does come with one, but again, if this is in good shape, there's no reason that we shouldn't be able to reuse it, and it'll prevent us from having to trim or cut the new one.I'm going pull that trim ring down. Now, we can move up to on top of the roof, and we're going to remove the old vet. So now that we're on top of our roof, we want to make sure that it's the appropriate vent. If you have more than one, double-check that it's the one you are replacing. But if you look down at the edge or the seam where the vent meets the roof, there's going to be some sealant around it. We need to pull all this up so we can get access to the fasteners underneath. Typically, you can just grab a putty knife, kind of just go in towards the vent, start peeling it up. Again, until we can get underneath and get access to all the screws, and then we can worry about taking the rest it off. The easiest way is just to get real close to the vent so you can get all those screws out.We'll pull the vent out and then we can clean all this up. But it is going to take a little bit of time because this sealant's pretty thick. So we're just going to work our way around, scraping all this excess sealant off. Now, you can see we got most of that sealant pulled away. I didn't really pull too much away around the very edge because I don't want to damage the membrane on the roof here. So I just want to take off that sealant that's around the fasteners. And then I'm going to take a number two square bit and pull out all these screws.Once you have all the screws out of your vent, you're going to try to take your putty knife and you want to find a seam, so you can get right underneath it, and see if we can kind of work our way around a little bit so that we can get underneath and pry the cover up. I'm trying to get that vent to separate. But again, you want to watch it because we really don't want to tear the membrane on the roof. We just want to cut that seal in a way so that we can pull the vent off. I'm just going to work my way around with a putty knife right at the seam, where I can get it underneath, until we can get enough of it up, and then we're going to start prying the vent up. You don't want to pull too hard because there are going to be some wires attached to it. But again, we have our power disconnected, so we just want to make sure we pull all this off, and then we can disconnect the wires and we can pull the entire vent off.With the old vent removed, we want to clean more of this sealant off the roof, so we get it as clean as possible. And then we'll grab our new vent and the installation kit, and start up top up here. So we've got our fan up here. A few things I want to point out is if we look at our vent, we're going to have a hinge on one side. The hinge is going to face towards the front of the vehicle, so we want to make sure we have it in the correct orientation.But before we put everything in place, we want to get our wires hooked up, and we've got plenty of slack on the wire. So just undo the wires, the tie that's around them. We have plenty of room to work with. Unfortunately, for us, we already have power and ground wires ran because we're replacing our vent. So we just do want to make sure that we pay attention to the label that's on the fan because the black wire is going to be positive and the white wire is going to be your ground. Now, they do provide you with some butt connectors in your kit, so we're just going to crimp them down and hook up our wires to power and ground.Hook the black wire up to the positive. We'll get our white wire, crimp our butt connector on the end of it. And we'll hook our ground wire up to that. These are heat-shrink butt connectors, so you can shrink them down with a heat source. If you are going to use a lighter or any kind of open flame, you do want to be careful not to char or burn the wires or the connector themselves.Now, in the installation kit, you're also going to get a roll of butyl tape. We want to put this tape around the edge on that flange of our vent. So, I'm just going to unroll a little bit, start at the corner and just kind of go around the edge, pressing it down until I can get to the other corner. I'm going to trim it off and just keep going around until we have this entire flange covered. I'll pull the backing off. You kind of watch your wires as you move the fan around. And again, we can set our fan in place, we want to make sure that hinge is pointing towards the front and the vent is centered in the hole. Now, also when you put it in place, you want to watch your wires, make sure they're not going to get tangled or caught. Again, just kind of center that vent in the hole and make sure that hinge is pointing towards the front.Now, if you look real close at the flange on the vent, you'll see that there's a couple of dimples, but then we have these raised rings that are on there. We want to take the included screws with your kit, and we want to screw into that raised hole. There's going to be a total of 16 of these and 16 raised rings on the flange. So grab a Phillips bit. Let's go right in the center and secure it down. Now, you don't want to tighten these down so much that the flange cracks, but you do want to get them nice and snug. So we're going to go through and put all the screws in, going around the flinch.Now, in the installation kit, you're also going to get some self-leveling sealant. And we want to cut the tip off and we're going to put a bead around all of the fasteners, as well as the outside of the flange, so we can seal everything up. Now, you don't need a whole lot of this because it is self-leveling. So as we put it down, it's going to start to spread out. So again, I'm just going to go around the fasteners, putting a small bead down. And then we'll move to the outside edge and get that as well. Now, you can already see that our sealant is starting to spread out and kind of flatten out. That's what we want. And give it a little bit more time and that's going to start to go over and even out, without having to go back with a putty knife. But while we're still up here, you can go ahead and remove the plastic cover that's on the vent.We can move back inside and we can get the garnish ring in place. Now at this point, we want to tuck as much of that wire into the backend of the ceiling as we can, so we don't have a big bundle here. Then we can grab our new garnish or trim ring, and I'm just going to dry-fit mine, for now, just to see if we do have to trim anything or cut anything. I'm just going to make sure the wires are tucked back into place. Just raise it up. It fits pretty good. We might have to trim just a little bit because back here it's not touching. And as you know, the roof isn't exactly flat. So we shouldn't need a trim too much off, but you can use just pretty much anything you have. If you have a handsaw. I'm just going to trim a little bit of this plastic off so we can get the garnish ring in place.When you go to trim your garnish ring, we already know that it fits. We just need to trim a little bit. So I'm just going to take about a quarter-inch, maybe half-inch off the top around here. But what you can do at home, if you don't know how much you need to trim, is you can just line up the old one and get a pretty good idea and just trim. Just keep in mind, you can't put any more material back. So I like to trim and just kind of sneak up or until we get a nice flush fit.Now that we have it trimmed, I'm just going to come back and clean up all the edges and get all this excess plastic off. Now, that we have the guarders in place, you can see it has a really nice tight fit. It's going to sit nice and flush against the ceiling once we get the screws in place. Now we want to make sure we use the flat painted screws on the inside. Because if you look at that ring, it does have a countersink for the screw to sit nice and flush. So I'll take a Phillips bit and I'm going to secure that trim ring down. Now, just like on top, we just want to secure these down. We don't really want to drive them in and crack that ring. I'll put one in each hole. Make sure everything's sitting nice and flush.But now that we have our fan in place, I'm going to go back up top, gather all the tools up. And obviously, since we had a hole through the roof, some stuff did fall down here, so we're going to clean up everything we have, and then we can turn the power back on and test our fan. So we got our power back on. I'm going to go ahead and open up the vent. So pull down to unlock the knob, turn it counterclockwise, open up that vent, push the knob in to lock it down. And we'll turn the fan on and start it running through all the speeds, making sure it's working properly. So here we got low, or one, speed two, speed three, and speed four. Turn the fan off. Now that we know that everything's working, we can go ahead and clean up and put everything away.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Info for these parts were:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Robert C
Installed by:
Robert C
Employee Aidan B
Video by:
Aidan B

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