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MORryde Tandem Axle Trailer Suspension Upgrade Kit Installation

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How to Install the MORryde Tandem Axle Trailer Suspension Upgrade Kit

Hi there, trailer owners. Today we're gonna be taking a look at, and showing you how to install, MORryde's Tandem-Axle Heavy Duty Upgrade Kit. These are available in two configurations you can get, with 3 1/8" shackles or with 2 1/4" shackles. We're gonna be using the 3 1/8" today. Here you can see our heavy duty upgraded parts installed, and these are gonna be a wet bolt upgrade kit, which is my personal favorite type of suspension attachment, over the Never Fail. We've got that one right here, we have removed the old ones, and you can see that they did fail there.

The self-lubricating ones here, they don't last as long as forever. They do last longer than a wet bolt if you don't grease your wet bolts, but if you do maintain your wet bolts and frequently grease them like this, a wet bolt will outlast these just about every time. And usually by a pretty significant amount. These ones here, since they're maintenance-free also, you really don't ever pay attention. Sometimes you just use your trailer and you don't really think about it, and the next thing you know, you got a bunch of noise and you're wondering what's going on.

And you can see that these have worn out, and they've worn out so bad to the point that it's actually elongated the holes and wallowed out the hole inside the equalizer here, which may completely destroy the equalizer. So then this had to be replaced in order to get this trailer properly back to its normal operation. With wet bolts here, it gives you an incentive to come down here and grease them, 'cause you know it's gonna make them last longer. And come down here, it gives you a chance to also inspect them. The maintenance-free ones, you don't usually go down and inspect them, you don't think about it, they wear out and they end up costing you more money in the long run.

Where something like this, it takes a little bit of time, a few times a year, to come out here and grease it, but it really does make a big difference in how long this is gonna last. With this being a boat trailer, we did use marine grease on these, but you can just use a regular multi-purpose wheel bearing grease, works great for greasing those. One of the things that's nice about this kit as well, is these shackles, they are gonna be a heavy duty upgraded shackle. You can see how much thinner our original shackle is, and compared to the thickness of the ones that are on there now. And these have also, you can see they've wallowed out the holes in these, having a thicker shackle is gonna help ensure that we don't get that wear down there in the long run.

As long as you keep everything well-greased, we're really not gonna get any play between the bronze bushings that come with it, the leaf spring, and the bolt. The grease helps to take up any of that play, it helps keep out moisture, which helps keep out corrosion. It prevents metal on metal contact and keeps everything able to move and rotate freely. Preventing that metal on metal contact and keeping everything in a nice tight tolerance is what makes you have a nice, easy, smooth-riding trailer, that's quiet, and that's gonna last a long time. If you do have damaged equalizers because of old bushings that we're wore out, and they've gotten to the point where it's damaged those, you can get equalizers here at Etrailer as well. When purchasing an equalizer, you want to know the thickness of the equalizer, the distance between the center of your lower bolts, and as well as the distance between the upper bolt and the height difference between the lower bolt there. You can find many different shapes and sizes of equalizers here on Etrailer, so you can ensure that we've got one for your particular trailer here. These wet bolts are 9/16ths wet bolts. You do want to pay attention to that as well, to make sure you've got the appropriate diameter bolt to go in for your suspension system that you've got here. We'll begin our installation by getting our trailer jacked up. You can see I've got jack stands underneath the frame at both the front, as well as in the back. I used my jack to lift it up to where our wheels are off the ground, so we can get those spinning. And then I went ahead and I took some jacks and I placed one underneath the front axle here, right underneath where the leaf spring attaches to it. And I did the same thing on the rear axle with another jack. You could use a jack stand for one of those, but you are gonna want to have at least one jack underneath these, so we can adjust the height up and down to be able to get our bolts in and out easily. Once you've got it all set up here, we can then go ahead and start on one side. We're gonna remove our tires and get those out of the way. The bolt size for your tires is gonna change on your trailer, on ours we're gonna be using a 21-millimeter socket. Well I get this one off and set it aside, and we'll get our other one off as well. We can now start removing our old bolts, you can see those here. On ours it's gonna be a 22-millimeter socket for the nut and a 21-millimeter to hold the inside. But your bolt sizes can vary slightly depending on the trailer that you're working on. We'll go ahead and make sure we hold the other side while we zip these off. And we're just gonna continue running down the line, removing all the nuts from all the hardware for each of the wet bolts. You're gonna have one on each side of your leaf spring, and you'll have three at your equalizer. And that's gonna be one on each side of each leaf spring. So now that we've got all the nuts off, what I like to do to get these out, they are gonna be in there pretty stiff a lot of times, you can maneuver your jacks up and down a little bit to help relieve some of that tension, but oftentimes you are gonna have to drive it out a little bit. So what I like to do is use one of the nuts that we just removed, and I'll thread it on there a few turns, and what this really does, is it just helps protect the threads on our old hardware. We're replacing it, but if we smash up the head, sometimes the head of the bolt here can actually catch and make it difficult to get out. So that'll just help protect that and make it easier to get it all the way out. Go ahead and just give it a little drive like that. And then we can go back and remove that nut. And at this point, we've broken it loose, so tapping it out the rest of the way is a whole lot easier. We'll just use an extension here to assist us. Now when we popped that, we saw this wanted to go up some, so that tells us that we need to relieve a little bit of pressure on this axle here. So we're gonna go over to the jack, and we're just gonna let a little bit of that pressure off. We can tighten it back up, and then we're just gonna recheck, tap on it a little bit and see if it's loose, and we may need to adjust the pressure a little bit more as we go. So we got that one out of there, no problem. And you can already see why we're replacing them. These are the old bushings here, and those should be pressed fit. And it came right out of there, and you can see that the bushing material's just about all the way gone. So this is where we want to do an inspection here, because if our leaf spring or our equalizer here is all wallowed out, we would want to replace those, because the new bushings are gonna have play in it, and that's just gonna destroy your new bushings. So we can grab one of our new bushings here, and we're just gonna see. Now, right here, we can definitely tell that this equalizer is a no go. We're gonna have to replace this equalizer. The old sleeves just fall right out of it, 'cause they're all damaged, and has damaged our equalizer. So pressing in a new one of these isn't gonna do us any good. The play that's in there is just gonna cause that bolt to slam up and down inside of here, and that's gonna destroy this bushing, and then cause further damage to our equalizer, we're gonna have a lot of noise out of his trailer. And our leaf spring here, it doesn't just fall in there, so that's a good sign, that there hasn't been damage done to our leaf spring yet. So we're gonna take one of the old bolts that we had just knocked out. Those actually work really well for driving in your new bushings. We can slide that all the way up inside of there. You want to just check it to see, this one here, we can see that the serrated edges have just kind of worn down. Sometimes your serrated edges, they might catch there, you want to try a different bolt then. You don't want to damage the outside here with those serrated edges. This one's pretty worn down, so that makes a great little punch to knock that in. And it's going in nice and stiff, that's exactly what we want to see. So that means our inspection of our leaf spring here is all good, no damage had occurred to that. We we're able to get in here and get these replaced with ones that's going to save our leaf spring. The damage has already been done on our equalizer though, so at this point, we're gonna need to replace it. So we're just gonna continue driving this one in. And that's exactly how we want to install the bushings, basically in our entire setup here. So I'll be repeating that process for the eyelet, over on the other side. And of course, we're gonna inspect that, if it's all wallowed out, we're gonna replace the leaf spring. We'll be doing the same thing with this leaf spring over here. To remove the equalizer, we just need to remove these three bolts and then it'll drop right out of there. We can show you that here real quick, we'll go ahead and pull this one. It's all wallowed out. Normally you can't pull your bolts out like that, but since all the damage that's been done there, they just kind of fall right out of there. Normally you'd have to drive those out to get those out. The one here, we're gonna have to drive out for sure, because the serrated edges like we talked about here, are going to be inside the hanger there, and that's gonna prevent the bolt from coming out, even if there's a lot of play, which there is a lot of play in there. So we'll just drive this out now. Take that off of there, 'cause you can see how tight the clearance is there, that's why we didn't want to smash the head of this bolt. That nut being around the outside acts as a collar that prevents it from smashing outward. It's significantly freer after you pop it loose, so you can just daintily tap it out of the way, and get this worn out. Look at that! That's terrible. Get this out of here and we're gonna get us a nice new one. Some of the measurements you'll want to check on these when you replace it, is the width of it, the distance between center to center on your holes there, and then also the distance from this hole to this hole here, do vertically like that. Here we have our new equalizer, this is the one we're gonna be replacing it with. This is what's appropriate for our trailer. You're gonna want to make sure you match that up for yours. This equalizer does come with bushings pre-installed. These are self-lubricating bushings with these ones here, they're completely maintenance-free bushings. You don't use these with a wet bolt kit. This is just for regular suspension bolts. This is the other side of our leaf spring, I just wanted to show you how I got it set up, when I'm taking the bushing out. I've lowered it down far enough, in between the hanger there, to where I can get the bushing drove out. The old one here is coming out really easily, which that's 'cause they're all worn out. When you go to put your new one in here, I've got it at this position, so that way the inner hanger here, the top of the leaf spring's touching on the inside of that upper hanger. If we don't have it in there and it's just down, your axle kind of wants to flop around, and it can be really difficult to get your bushing drove in, but by having it just barely touching on that hanger there at the top, we can utilize that as a back board to let us drive this nice and easily. After we get those outer bushings replaced, we'll want to get those back in place, and to do that, we'll just take our jack, and we're just lifting up on the axle, using it to make sure that it's lined up with the holes. Sometimes you have to push your axle slightly forward or backward. And that looks pretty well lined up. Now you do have an option. Your bolt can go in either direction. You could slide it in from the outside in, like this. And that's only my preferred method if you know when your wheels are in place, your wheel's not gonna be obstructing the grease fitting here. 'Cause if it is, it makes it really difficult to grease the bushing, a lot of times you have to take the wheel off then to be able to do so. So if your wheel's not obstructing it, then this is a great direction, but if your wheel is obstructing it, then I would recommend going from this direction, that way, to grease it, you just have to just roll underneath and you can access your grease fittings from the inside. So we're gonna be doing it like that, 'cause our wheels do interfere with the eyelet there. And we just want to line that up and push it all the way through. And we want to make sure that the whole shoulder of the bolt goes through the hanger there. So you want to make sure it's all the way lined up. We can then put our nut on it. And we'll grab a socket and wrench to tighten it down. The inner one, we're gonna hold with a 21-millimeter socket, and the outer one we're gonna tighten down with an 18-millimeter socket. And then we'll just zip that down. We can repeat that with the outer eyelet on the other leaf spring as well. So now we've got our equalizers off, we need to get the old bushings out, so we can get the new ones in. We saw that our original equalizer was damaged, so our new one here has the maintenance-free, but we're gonna upgrade from maintenance-free to wet bolts, so we can be the master of the control of the life of our trailer. The old bolts that we used to drive in those bushings, those come in clutch once again. We can just line up the outside of the bolt with our bushing there until we catch the lip and then it'll just drive right out of there. And we're really not hitting that hard when we're hitting it. We're just kind of tapping it, just looking for that right spot, to where we start seeing movement. We got both of those drove out, so we'll go ahead and put our new bushings in, and then we can flip it over and remove the third one. We'll be using that old bolt once again to drive our bushings in. We've got our equalizer all prepared and it's ready to go. It's going to install similarly as our outer ones, right into the shackle here, we'll slide it up into the middle. Gonna take our bolt from the outside, slide it in. It's a lot easier to line the equalizer up than fitting in those leaf springs, cause you got, there's a lot less parts here, so you have a lot more control over it. And we'll just put that on there and then tighten it down, we'll use our same size hardware to tighten these down as well. Now that we've got that on there, we'll take our shackles and we can put these in place. Same thing, you can go from either direction. We're gonna be putting all of ours on the inside 'cause the tires obstruct here still. One of these is gonna be really easy to put in, 'cause you can still maneuver this around to line these up, so we'll do that real quick and get it slid through. On the opposite side, we'll take our shackle, slide it into place and install the nuts. We can go ahead and snug this down too. And then we'll get our other one installed. This one can be a little bit trickier, because we now no longer can move this freely since we're attached to the leaf here. So you can see, we gotta try to line them up. They actually lined up fairly decently well. Then in a lot of cases, it's not gonna line up quite as easily as that. If it doesn't line up, if you're too close or too far away, you'll just want to lift up or down on your axle here to adjust the distance there, so that way you can get that to slide in. This is gonna go the exact same as the other side, want to make sure we got our shackle all the way on there, needs to be over the shoulder for those bolts. And then we can put our nuts on and tighten these down as well. We can now go back and torque our hardware to the specifications outlined in our instructions. And we're just gonna repeat this for all of the bolts that we just installed. Well, now I'm gonna go in and grease our bushings. You'll just want to use some multi-purpose wheel bearing grease to do so. We're gonna be using a marine grease on our particular trailer here, because this is a boat trailer and it's often gonna be backed down, in and out of the loading dock, and it's gonna be exposed to a lot more moisture than what your typical trailer is. You can get grease here at Etrailer in tubes, and we also sell grease guns just like this as well, so you can get your whole set up that you need to be able to grease yours. Now it's not uncommon for it to be pretty stiff. So you have to find the right angle and get it on there lined up. And that's what we want to see. You see on the other side, where I'm shooting the grease in, how it has started to come out over there, that means we've got grease through it. and then we're just gonna move on to the next one. And we're gonna repeat this process until all of them are greased. And that completes our look at MORryde's Tandem-Axle Heavy Duty Wet Bolt Upgrade Kit..

Info for these parts were:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Kevin C
Test Fit:
Kevin C

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