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Optronics Submersible Trailer Light Kit Installation

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How to Install the Optronics Submersible Trailer Light Kit

Today we're gonna take a look at, and show you how to install the Optronics Submersible Under 80" Trailer Light Kit with 25-foot Wiring Harness. Part number is TL5RK. Now, this trailer re-wiring kit is really gonna give you all the lights you need to make sure your trailer's within compliance with all the laws and regulation. This light happens to be on the driver side, has our license plate illumination panel there on the bottom. Got our side lights and our stop, turn, and brake lights here on the back. The passenger side light's gonna be identical to this one, it's just not gonna have that open panel at the bottom, or that clear lens at the bottom to illuminate your license plate.Now, if you're using marine applications, these are gonna be an excellent choice as well.

These are submersible lights, that means they are protected inside with a small cover. And there's also a hole here at the bottom to allow any moisture out that might be trapped inside the housing. One thing you definitely wanna do though, it's highly recommended to unplug the lights from the back of your vehicle as you're backing into the water. You don't wanna get water in here in this bulb, if it's really hot you could run risk of damaging it. Here you can see our side maker light has the single stud attachment point, which grounds right through the light.

So you just have one wire that's gonna get connected right to the running light wire from our y-harness. You'll notice that the lens is also reflectorized, so as it's sitting out somewhere dark when headlights hit it, it's gonna shine and be visible.Now, this kit features incandescent lights, which are gonna be our standard glass-fold kind of lights. They're gonna do a good job of matching what was originally on the trailer. If you are going through a complete rewire on your trailer, if you're trying to update a trailer, a lot of the newer LED lights are also a good choice. So, that's something to consider.

They tend to last longer, you're not gonna have to worry about bulb replacements nearly as much. They don't draw as much power through our vehicle. And they tend to give kind of a clearer, brighter light. So, definitely, something to keep in mind if you're going through the work of changing over an entire trailer, might be a good option to pick as well. Now, you can see the 4-pole connector, unlike a lot of the other ones, is encased.

So, as you make your connection with your vehicle it's gonna offer a little bit more protection for us.Now, to begin our install, we wanna choose the appropriate side of the plug. In your kit you're gonna get both the truck side and the trailer side. The trailer side's gonna be the more squared one, where this ones gonna have our three-leads and our bigger ground. Now, most vehicles are gonna be equipped with a 4-pole plug on them already. If you're using this trailer or this wiring kit for a trailer that's going to be connected to a car that doesn't already have a wiring kit, check our website and look for something custom fit for your application, so you know it's gonna work. With this lead, you're basically gonna be tapping into, directly to your brake lights, tail lights, and it's just not protected that way. So, it's a good idea to get something custom fit. If you just need a replacement, this is a really good idea. You can just replace the 4-pole coming out of your vehicle with this one by matching up the wire color.Now, we've stripped our trailer down, removed all of the old lights. We're gonna be replacing everything all the way back. The only thing we haven't stripped out yet is our old wiring. As long as it's intact, we can use this and pull our new wiring through. So, make a couple loops here on the end. This is the right side of the trailer if we're looking at it from the back. On this side, your green and brown wire is the one you'll wanna run back. The left side of the trailer, looking at it from the back, is going to be your yellow and brown wire. Just gonna bend these over, I'm gonna attach them to the old wires, tape them off and use those to kind of guide it through. Electrical tape's generally what we use here, just to hold these together. Now, you see, kind of what we're gonna do, we'll pull on our old wire and it's gonna bring our new wire through.Now, one thing you wanna keep in mind as you're routing your wires is to leave enough length to easily be able to connect to the back of your vehicle. I'm gonna bring it out just a little bit further than what this ground is gonna allow. So, we'll extend that later when we connect it. Now, once we get to the first light position, we wanna get it installed. Our first one's gonna be our side marker light. It's gonna have a nut and a lock washer on it. You wanna remove that. But pretty often, you can have a situation like this. You can see this is an elongated hole, we don't wanna use a lock washer behind that because it's probably gonna catch on that and it'll wind up opening that lock washer. So, we're gonna place our light through. Now, we're gonna use a flat washer, that'll allow that lock washer something to bite on. Also, you'll see here on the bottom of the light, there's gonna be a little gap there for your wire to pass through.So make sure you have it passed through there. Once we have that through, put our fender-washer on, our flat washer, then our lock washer, and our nut. Then we'll use a 10-millimeter socket and we'll wanna tighten that down. All right. Now, we need to splice this into our running light signal, that's gonna be our brown wire. Right here. So, we wanna separate the two of those. Now, to get that separated, you generally use like a little flat blade, but the key is here, you wanna go between the two wires. You don't wanna go into the insulation on the wires. So, keep that in mind. Once we're through there, I'm just gonna pull those apart. Now, for making your connection here, they supply you with a quick connector. Basically with this, what you're gonna do is place this upon your wire, just like that. You're gonna place this one in the other side, and when you push down that tab, that's gonna make a connection between your two wires.The tab comes down and in like that. Then you've got this cap that comes over the top. Now, generally, if we have a failure in a trailer it's in this area. So, we do away with these. I'm gonna show you a good solution. This is a heat shrink butt-connector. So, in using that, we're going to splice our wire. Gonna make a cut here. I'm gonna strip back both sides on our light wire, like that. Doesn't really matter what side you do. We're going to twist our light wire together with our running light signal wire. Place on our butt-connector and then get that crimped down. I'm gonna pull on that to make sure you've got a good connection made. Take our other side, place it in and we'll crimp that down. Now, I need to use a heat source to get that shrank. You can use a mini torch. You can use a heat gun. Generally, I just use a lighter. The key is, just to heat it up a little bit at a time.It's gonna turn clear. It starts to shrink down. And then when it gets all the way shrank, it's gonna look like that wire gets a little bit bigger. There'll be a little clear gel that comes out of the end. Once you get that little bit of clear gel, wire looks like it's magnified. So that side shrank down, we'll do the same thing here. Now, by using one of the heat shrink butt-connectors like this, you're going to eliminate any issues you're gonna have with corrosion's at your connections. Generally, this is just gonna make your wiring job last a lot longer. Gonna pull that up, and we can continue on down our trailer. Now, another common problem that we run into on rewiring trailers, our old wiring ran right through this tube. It's really nice, keeps it up and out of the way. But this is almost turned to concrete in there. We weren't able to get that wire out, so we're clearly not gonna be able to get our wire back through.One way around that's gonna be with a loom-clamp. And of course, every trailer's different, so you wanna pick which application's gonna work for you. But, this is part number A0250. We have them readily available on our website. What we're able to do with this, just put our wire in, and I'm gonna tuck that right down there. So, it'll keep it out of the way, we won't have to worry about it hanging up on any of the equipment we're loading up or anything like that. And to attach it, we're gonna use a self-tapping screw. Once we've marked and started our hole, get it attached just like that. And another thing I like to do with these connections is put a zip tie right on the front side and then also right on the back side of this. And basically, that's gonna keep our wire from moving forward and back. The loom-clamp does a fairly good job of grabbing it, and I think if we do that, then we don't have to worry about that wire going anywhere.Okay, we're gonna follow this same procedure basically back to our next light. We're gonna get this tucked up and out of the way to keep it protected back to our next connection point. Now, we're adding a couple of the side-marker light we used up front as a fender clearance light as well, here. This is part number MC36AB. And, just gonna be placing it on using the provided hardware, no need for a flat washer here, 'cause it's just a circular hole. Then we're gonna splice this one in just like we did the one up front there. Now, with our wire here at the back of our trailer, we're gonna get our light attached. The green wire light's the one we wanna use here on the passenger side. On the back, you can see it's got a flat washer and a nut. I'm gonna take both of those off. And we'll place that in the bracket on our trailer, and we're gonna place a flat washer back on each of those and use that nut to attach it. You'll wanna use a 7/16" wrench for these nuts. I'm gonna get it secured down.Now, you should have a little bit of excess wire here. So, we'll wanna get that trimmed off. Let's see, I'm gonna put that right there. I'm also gonna take a little bit of the wire off my light. We're gonna strip back both sides. Now, in the kit you're gonna have little wire nuts, once we have the two browns twisted together then this just kinda threads on like a nut. Now, as you can see, that leaves a pocket for moisture and dirt to get in there and eventually lead to corrosion. So, just like we did on our other lights, we're gonna switch our connectors out to heat shrink butt-connectors. Just gonna twist them up, slide them on and get them crimped. Now, we'll be attaching the green wire to the green wire, and the brown wire to the brown. Now, we'll get those shrank.Now, once we have everything in place here and secured down. We're ready to go to the other side of the trailer and just do the exact same thing. Whatever works for your application. Now, when mounting your left side light or the driver side light, you wanna ensure that you put your license plate bracket on there. If you'll look on the bottom of the housing, you're gonna see we've got our light right here, that'll illuminate the plate for us. I think our situation is gonna be better to have it just like this, so our plate will hang there and it'll get plenty of light. That bracket's gonna get sandwiched right in between the back of the light housing and our mounting bracket. And just like the other side, we're gonna put on our flat washers and our nuts. Now, depending on your trailers set up, you may need to run a jumper wire to get to any lights that you have on the back.We're gonna take the little bit of extra brown wire that we've got out of our kit, and we're gonna splice it in together. Just like we did our other light. So, two wires going into one side, one wire going into the other. And that's gonna give us this lead that we can run back for anything else we might need. All right. Here you can see our taillight connection, yellow to yellow. Our running light connection, brown to brown. Then we've got our jumper there. So, we'll shrink them down, get it anchored out and we'll be in good shape. Now, we've added on just a little bit of extra wire to our pigtail here, use that same heat shrink butt-connector we've used for all of our other splices. Then we're gonna add a small ring terminal on to the opposite end of that. Now, we'll just make our attachment. Just like that.Now, at this point, our wiring's ready for use. Something I do like to do though, I like to start with some electrical tape here. Just kinda go all the way back. So, we've got just kind of a single wire here at the front, rather than five different ones. Now, to test out our installation, we're gonna use either a trailer tester, or you can simply plug it into your towing vehicle. We'll turn on our running light, we'll wanna check and make sure those are all working. We're gonna do our left turn signal. We're gonna do our brake lights and our right turn signal. Now, we're just gonna use our old hardware and we're gonna reattach our license plate here. Get those snug down in a minute. You can see how that light's gonna project down on there and keep you legal.And that's gonna complete our look at the Optronics Submersible Under 80" Trailer Light Kit. Part number TL5RK.

Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Randy B
Installed by:
Randy B
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D

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