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Optronics LED Combination Trailer Tail Lights Installation

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How to Install the Optronics LED Combination Trailer Tail Lights

Hi there, trailer owners. Today, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install Optronics waterproof LED trailer light kit. And this is what our light kit looks like when it's installed. And this is gonna be a complete light kit, and that's what I like about it so much, because you're not just gonna get your driver and passenger's side LED taillight assemblies that you see here, they are waterproof assemblies, which is great for a lot of applications, especially both trailers. But included in this kit, you're also gonna get 25-foot of wiring. And it's very nice wiring, because it's not just a four-pole wiring, you're gonna get a dedicated taillight circuit for both the driver and passenger's side, which is really, really nice.

If you're wanting to put like marker lights on the side of your trailer and things like that, because since it has a dedicated taillight wire, you've got an easy way to tap into that and add those side marker lights. So, it's a super nice kit there. You also get four-pole ends for both the trailer, as included with that wiring, and for your vehicle side. So, if you're repairing some damage four-pole ends and stuff like that and kinda refurbishing a trailer and getting lights and stuff like that up and running, this kit comes with pretty much everything you need. You do also get your license plate bracket included with it.

And on the driver's side taillight here, there is a light on bottom to illuminate for your license plate. You do not get hardware, though, to attach the license plate, so just keep that in mind. You have to provide your own hardware for that. You do get all the connectors and stuff that you would need to be able to install these lights. However, during the install, we're gonna cover that.

Some of the connectors, I do believe, fall a little short of the quality of the rest of the stuff in the kit because the lights and the wiring are pretty phenomenal, but the hardware you get, you get wire nuts and quick splices, some things that I really wouldn't associate with a waterproof trailer. So, a couple of the connectors I would recommend upgrading, so that way, you can get the most life out of these. But as far as the meat and potatoes of the components, you get beautiful wiring and lights, so it was really easy for me to be able to restore this trailer. This is my personal trailer. I had incandescents on here before, I had some broken bulbs, I had some damaged wiring, so with this single kit, I'm able to rejuvenate it here.

And then I also went to LED, so I'm gonna have more efficient lights at the same time. The older incandescent ones, I drive an older truck, so I got an 88 out there. And the output from my truck didn't really like the incandescent lights. I was popping fuses quite often. So, going to these LEDs should solve that problem for me. They have a significantly lower amperage draw than what an incandescent does. They're also gonna be brighter than what your incandescent bulbs are, so I'm gonna increase my visibility at night over what my incandescent were. LEDs typically last about 50 times longer than incandescents as well, so this should hopefully be the last time that I need to get in here and repair this trailer. These lights do have a lifetime warranty, though, for the LEDs on the inside. So, as long as you don't run into anything and destroy the outside and it just naturally fails, it is gonna be covered, so I like that as well. I am pretty rough on my trailer. I use it for all kinds of applications, so it's not uncommon for this to get soaked with water or other type of chemicals potentially, depending on what I'm using the trailer for, 'cause I use it for about anything under the sun. It gets more abused and I feel like it probably should, but it's fairly reliable, so it was worth putting the nicer lights on it here. So, now that we've covered some of the features of our lights, let's go ahead and get into the install. I am gonna kinda cover some of the individual components, that are the connectors and stuff that we mentioned there, in further detail in that install and why I would recommend using the other ones and which ones I do recommend using, so let's just get right into it. We'll begin our installation here on our trailer by verifying a couple of things. First, this kit does come with about 25-foot of wiring. So, just double-check to the length of your trailer and make sure that your trailer is gonna be under that length, so that way, you've got enough wiring in the kit to wire up your lights. Next, we're gonna wire up our, we're gonna hook up and install our lights here at the back. So, I already know my trailer, a 16-foot trailer, I got plenty of length here, we're good to go. So, we'll get our assemblies mounted up now and then we can start routing our wiring to those assemblies. We're gonna start over here on the driver's side. This trailer has got a light already existing on there. But this is a great replacement kit, and these are incandescent, so we're gonna be upgrading to LED as well. Included in this kit also, you'll receive a license plate bracket for installing your license plate here at the back. So, we'll be adding that as well. The driver's side light will have a light on the bottom to illuminate the license plate that's attached to the bracket. So, we're gonna install the driver's side here, so I gotta get all of that hooked up. We're gonna start by removing our old light. So, we're just gonna use a 7/16 for our old one here. Our new lights are gonna use a 10-millimeter for their socket size. So, I'm just gonna remove the two bolts that are attaching my light here at the back. All right, it looks like we are gonna have to actually, actually, we just gonna have to bust this taillight assembly. The hardware has rusted through the bolts. So, when I'm spinning the nuts to remove it from the studs, that are made onto the light, it's just spinning the entire stud. So, we're just gonna bust this off of here. We're replacing it anyway, no harm, no foul. And once we bust it off of there, we can access our hardware. We could also potentially remove these screws there and access them on the inside. So, we could try that if you're wanting to save this light rather than busting it off of there. We'll remove our lens. There's four screws in the corners and all lights are gonna be a little bit different. Some of them are sealed assembly, so you may not be able to have access to the inside. Normally, if you have incandescent lights like this, though, they do have an access panel to be able to replace the incandescent bulbs off, 'cause the failure rate on those is much higher than on an LED as far as its life cycle. And a big reason why I'm wanting to upgrade from incandescents to the LEDs is to reduce the amount of current draw that my trailer causes on my truck, 'cause it does seem a bit excessive with these incandescents. And you can see there, when I pulled off the lens, it was cracked. So, we're gonna be repairing that all at the same time here. So, we're just gonna look inside to see if it's possible for us to be able to access the studs. So, there's the studs. You'll probably see them spinning when I rotate it here. Yep, and there she is, spinning. So, we're gonna try and use maybe a screwdriver or a pair of Channellocks or something to grab that to be able to remove the nut. If we can't, we can always cut that off with a cut-off tool if we're just unable to remove it. All right, so clamping on there was good enough for us to be able to get those removed. We we're sort of able to save the assembly there, but you could see, it's all busted up so, I mean, we're probably not gonna reuse this. There we're a couple of washers that we're on there. And I do recommend, if you got some washers that are on your lights, just save those 'cause you don't get new ones in your kit. And I recommend putting washers on there if you got them. So, now that we got that hanging and out of the way, we're gonna be removing the wiring and we can let that just hang out there for a while. And now, we'll move on to installing our light assembly here. So, here, we'll take our light assembly in the back. And you'll notice, you've got three of those kind of rectangular slotted holes. Those are for our hardware to slide into. So, if we take a carriage bolt here, you can see, all of them, the bolt will slide in the bottom like that and slide up. And so, that way, you got a couple different positionings to choose for your light. They are two inches apart from one another. And they are a standard, that's pretty standard for most of your lights. So, I'm gonna slide a couple in here. But I'm pretty certain that we are gonna be able to just reuse the holes that are existing. We may or may not need to drill new ones if they don't line up, but I'm pretty sure that this follows just a normal standard. So, I'm gonna slide these in here and into the two spots. We wanna make sure that our light there is aimed down, so it's gonna go in this position here when we install it. We do wanna get our wiring loose here real quick. All right, we got that loose. Now, we are gonna take, first, we're just gonna do a quick test fit and make sure our studs line up. And they line up right with our holes, so that's perfect. We don't need to drill any holes. Next, we're gonna take our license plate bracket and get that hooked up here with our wiring. So, our license plate bracket will kinda, our wires will slide through the bracket. Our bracket should line up with the studs. And that way, it can kinda hang down the bottom like that. Now, it looks like the license plate bracket's going to hit here on us, so I might just take the bracket and flip it over. You're supposed to install it the other way, but we're having clearance issues with ours in there. And we have a couple of options when we have clearance issues. You can either flip it over like this or you can move the positioning of the holes, so that way, it lines up. We're gonna try and just flipping it and see if that's gonna clear okay for us. And that seems like that's gonna be fine. Our light's still gonna be visible. So, yeah, we're gonna put it in this position then like this. Now, our wiring, we need that to clear as well, so we are gonna have to pay attention to that, 'cause that does kind of affect us here with installing it in this position, but there is clearance. So, I'm gonna pull this off, just so we can show you first. So, with that out of the way, you can see here at the bottom, there's a notch for our wiring to pass through the bottom. Also, right here, there are small little notches that are wiring can push down in as well, so it goes straight down through the little groove there. So, with that knowledge there, normally, you'd pass your wires through first, but since we're gonna have to install ours in this orientation, we're gonna actually get it going out the bottom first. So, I'm gonna line up my wires here and push them into the small groove. And there's grooves on top, too, if you wanted to go up, but there is not a notched out section on top. So, I'm just pushing each wire into the groove there. And each wire's gonna come out the notch, there on the bottom. We'll now take our license plate bracket and set it in place in the orientation that we wanted to be in. And you can see there that our wires will be able to pass out the bottom there without being pinched by our license plate bracket. So, now we'll slide that into position there. That lines up nicely, and we'll secure it with the hardware. Now, I do have some new washers here, so I'm not gonna reuse my old ones, but these did not come in the kit. I did provide these myself. So, I'm sliding that on the back of the stud, we're gonna follow it up with a washer, a lock washer and a nut. And again, the washer, I provided myself. Now, the other stud there, I'm actually gonna take my white wire here, we're gonna bring it around back and slide it on that stud, so we can just get ground right from there. So, we're just sliding that over the other stud, but we chose the stud that's closer to the wire, so we had enough wire length to do so. And then we'll follow that up with our hardware there. The washer I provided, the lock washer in the kit and a nut. And these ones are a little bit smaller than my factory hardware. It's gonna be a 10-millimeter in size for these. So, we're gonna swap to the other socket size here. And then go ahead and run these down. And you don't wanna go too crazy with these. It is just plastic on the assembly there, so you really just need enough to collapse the lock washer and that'll be plenty secure there. So, now that we've got this one mounted up, we're gonna mount up the passenger's side. The passenger's side is gonna mount up the same way with the only small difference being that you will not include a license plate bracket. It doesn't have the bottom light, so you don't put it on that side. But otherwise, all your wires are gonna pass through, just like we did on this side, and come out the bottom, we'll hook it up to the stud on the back as well. So, we're now at the front of the trailer. We're gonna start wiring up our harness that comes in our kit. Now, the four-pole end that's on here, you do get the four-pole end for your trailer. And also included in the kit, you're gonna get the vehicle's side. If you need to replace or add a four-pole connector on your vehicle, you get that as well. But me, personally, I don't like the four-pole ends that come in the kit here. There's no dust cap that goes on this end. It does have kind of extended side walls to help protect it, but I would prefer a full dust cap. So, there's nothing wrong with my current four-pole connector here, that has a dust cap, I like this style better, so I'm gonna leave this side on here and I'm just gonna get rid of this side. You'll still hook it up just like we're gonna do it. The only difference is is I hooked my ground wire, which is this one here, inside my junction box. And if you we're doing this on your trailer, you can see that this is a pretty short wire. You would either need to extend it to be able to hook it into your junction box, or you can just run it with a self-tapping screw into the frame. And you can actually see, right up here, originally, in my original connector, I did have a self-tapping screw up here towards the front doing that. But after I added the junction box, I much prefer wiring everything inside of here. It's sealed up and it stays safe. So, I highly recommend, if you're wiring up your trailer, grab one of these from etrailer. They're fairly cheap and they really help keep your wiring protected and makes adding accessories and stuff like that just a whole lot easier. So, we're gonna open up this box here. I'm gonna be wiring this in here and we're gonna keep this in. So, first, we're gonna open up the box. We'll just use our Phillips screwdriver here. Now, if you're not gonna use a junction box or anything, then all you actually need to do with this is just make it longer, obviously, and let it hang out the front at a distance that you would need it to be to be able to plug into your truck. And you would only need to hook up the ground wire to the frame. And that's all you would need to do. But if you're gonna follow along with us and install it into a junction box, we'll show you how to cut that end off, so we can install it in here. But I do really like that you get tons of wire in this kit. I'm able to rewire this whole trailer with what's in this kit here, basically. But I'm kinda upgrading it even further with some other components from etrailer. So, now that we've got our box lid open, we're gonna feed our wires in this direction here. So, we're gonna open up the cable relief here and pull our rubber out of the way. And you don't need to remove these screws entirely. You just need to have it loose enough to be able to slide wiring in and out of this location. All right, so we got that plenty loose now that we'll be able to slide our wiring in and out. So, since I'm gonna wire it into this box, I'm gonna go ahead and cut off this connector end here. I don't need it. So, I'm just gonna make sure I got plenty of length to attach my wire, so I'll probably cut it off at about right here, towards the end of the box. All right, and now we've got all of the wiring we need here to be able to connect into our box. So, I'm gonna get the old wiring out of here. So, that's right here, it's our old four-pole wiring. So, I'm gonna cut it right here first, just 'cause it'll make it easier to remove it from the box, so let's cut here. All right, so now that we've got that disconnected, we're going to remove each one of the wires that's coming off of here, for this little four-pole, out of our junction box and we'll attach our new ones in place. So, let's see if we can't pull some of this wiring through. We may just go ahead and take this relief all the way off, just to make things a little bit easier to work with here. That'll let us just kinda pull these down and get everything out of our way. All right, so this is the wiring that we're wanting to remove here. So, we're gonna get all these outta here. The little ground wire that was on there, that could probably stay. I'm gonna remove it, but it could probably stay. It's not gonna hurt anything to have another ground there. But these ones definitely gotta go 'cause this is where all of our wiring's gonna hook up, 'cause we have yellow, green and brown here. And we actually get two brown, which is really nice. You have an independent circuit for both your passenger and driver's side taillight assemblies with that, so that's really nice. Our previous wiring only had a single wire for delivering our taillight power to both sides. So, you get a little bit of an upgrade there too. So, we're gonna remove all those off of there. If you're using a junction box, you would wanna use an eight-millimeter socket. So, now we're gonna remove these. And actually, now that I'm looking at it, what I had done here is the four-pole connector that I've got up here, I actually put them into the same ring terminal for both directions. So, we're actually just gonna snip off the ends rather than remove the ring terminals, 'cause then I'll just rewire this back in. So, I'm removing the nuts from the yellow, brown and green wires, 'cause those are our left, right turn, stop and tail signals. So, we'll get all of these removed. We're removing the nuts from each one. Behind the nuts on these, you'll have a washer. So, make sure you take your washer off of each one. All right. So, now that we've got all those removed from there, I'm gonna go ahead and just cut these ends off. We're gonna need to rewire in this four-pole since I wanna keep that one, but all this excess, that was for our old wiring we're getting rid of. All right, so now that we've got that out of the way, we'll take our wiring here. Each one of these, as well as for our four-pole that we're keeping, we're gonna strip back each one of those ends. We'll take all our brown and put them together. So, now we can start hooking our wires up. I'm gonna start with taking all brown wires. So, we've got both the brown from our new harness plus the brown from the four-pole that we wanna keep. We're gonna put those into a ring terminal. And crimp it on down. And now, we're just gonna repeat that for the yellow wires and then the green wires. And if you need ring terminals, if you're gonna follow along and install a junction box, you can get those here etrailer. You do get ring terminals with your junction box. So, if you're adding it at the same time, you should have everything that you need there. Okay, now that we've got them crimped down, we are just going to reinstall each one in the appropriate location. So, just hook them back up to the appropriate wire. So, we're gonna slide our green to match our green, brown to match our brown and yellow to match our yellow. You do wanna pay attention, now if you have a seven-pole, a lot of times, these are swapped. Some of the wire colors are swapped, depending on the manufacturer. So, you do wanna just wanna double-check and make sure you're hooking it up for function, not just wire color. And once we get each one started, we'll go ahead and tighten them all backed down. Okay, we can slide all of our wiring in here and then reinstall our cable relief. You can also get rid of our ground here if we had an extra. I think what I'm probably gonna do, just for testing purposes for the future, is I'm gonna take my ground wire here and we're just gonna, just kinda run it out the back here. And then that way, I've got a ground that's connected to my junction box that I could use for testing so I can verify, like if I've got high resistance between my junction box ground and my frame ground or anything like that, or my battery, I got a couple of different testing points for checking those things now. So, now we just need to install that cable relief. So, you might have to remove your wires a little bit to be able to get that in there. And we're just trying to be careful not to pinch any wires while we're doing this. All right, now we're just kinda keep making sure that our wires aren't gonna get pinched near our bolt there, or the little screw that we're using to tighten it down. And we're just gonna snug them up, trying to center it in between the plastic band of the cable relief. Okay, that all looks pretty good in there. So, we can go ahead and reinstall our cover now. All right. So, now we're just following the wires back basically. So, now we're just gonna route our wiring towards the back. Now, you do get some clips in your kit, these clips here. This top piece here would clip onto your frame. It's a little bit wider and it's got those teeth on it to grab into it. And you can just slide that on the frame there and run your wiring down the bottom of the frame. I personally don't like this style. It's difficult also, with the thickness of my frame, to be able to slide this clip on there. I just don't personally care for those. So, I'd already have my trailer brakes running here, so I just decided to run the wiring, following the trailer brake wire. I like the way it's installed better. And it runs through the holes in the frame and everything and kinda keeps everything nice and neat. So, I just use cable ties running it back. But again, you do get some clips in your kit. So, we just keep on following the brake wire all the way back down the driver's side here until we get to the back. Now, this wiring is separate for the driver and passenger's side. So, if you wanted to, you could take the green and brown wire here and do the exact same thing going down the other side of the trailer, if you wanted to, for the passenger's side. I would recommend that, if you're installing side marker lights and stuff like that, 'cause that way, this brown wire is run down that side and you can easily tap right off of that to get taillight wiring for like side marker lights and things like that. Now, I don't have any side markers that I'm gonna put on here, so I'm just gonna run it all down the driver's side and then run it across. But it's nice that they've done this, so you got a lot of options on how you are gonna hook up your wiring. And great wiring, if you do split it side to side, for additional accessories and stuff in the future. All right, so we've got our wires run here to the back. Now, we can start making our connections here. I did wanna show you what you get in your kit though, as far as being able to make your wire connections. You get some wire taps here, and this is probably more for installing the four-pole end on your vehicle. But what you get for your lights here is wire nuts. Two per light. I highly recommend not using wire nuts, especially kinda for what these are marketed for. They boast how waterproof they are. And if the assembly is waterproof, that's fantastic. But if you use a wire nut, this connection is not gonna be waterproof and you're likely gonna have corrosion issue with your wiring. So, to make this an actual, like fully waterproof all the way up the set up here, we're gonna use heat shrink butt connectors that'll seal up and keep moisture out, so we have a much longer-lasting connection than what we would have with wire nuts, that's much more secure as well. And you can get heat shrink butt connectors here at etrailer. So, we'll get that out of the way. We're not gonna be using that. So, we're gonna hook up our wires, coming out of our light, to the wires that we run. And these just hook up color for color, so brown to brown, yellow to yellow. Our ground's already hooked up to the frame on the back side of the light assembly there. So, we're gonna use these blue ones here. They're a little bit smaller. If you're gonna be hook up like multiple lights into the same wire, you might want yellow ones on your trailer, but if you're just hooking this up, the blue work out really well. So, we're gonna bring this here. It's probably gonna go through, there. There's a cable tie here at the back that's preexisting that I'm just gonna reuse. So, I'll slide my wire through that and then we can make our connections just right here. So, I'm gonna leave myself a little bit of extra and then we'll trim off the excess here. After you've trimmed off your excess, go ahead and take your snips and cut in between the two wires. That'll let you peel them back some, so you can separate them to more easily make our connection. We'll now strip these ends back. Your light end is pre-stripped, but I am gonna strip back just a little bit more than what's there. It's kinda all jumbled up, kind of a little rat's nest, so we'll clean that up with a nice, fresh strip there as well before we put in our butt connector. After I strip them, I do like to twist the wires. It just helps keep the strands together, so that way, they more easily slide into the butt connector. Now that we've got both end stripped, we're just gonna wire them up color for color. So, I'll start with the brown one there. But do make sure you look both sides because after you split them, you get kinda some of the trace from the other wire on there, so at a certain angle, you can think it's the other color of wire, so just double-check yourself there. And then we'll just crimp these on down. All right, so this one's my brown wire, so we're gonna hook this to the brown wire over here on my light assembly. Slide that in there and crimp it down. And then we'll do the same thing with the yellow wires next. So, we got this one. That'll slide in there. Crimp it down. And we'll crimp this one down. And once we've got our wires crimped, since these are heat shrink butt connectors, we'll wanna grab our heat gun and seal up the connector ends. So, I'm just gonna put some cable ties on this to secure this wiring up, and then we'll head over to the passenger's side and we'll wire up that assembly. So, we're now over on the passenger's side and I routed mine across the back here. But if you we're doing this at home, running it down the passenger's side, since it's got its own dedicated circuits, does have a lot of benefits, so you might wanna consider that. So, I'm gonna run mine here. We're gonna go ahead and trim this up a little bit. Let's see, something like that. So, I'm gonna try and cable tie this wiring to hide it. So, something like that is a pretty decent length. A little bit of excess for the future in case we need it. Snip in between. And then just like we did on the driver's side, we're gonna strip these back and wire it color for color to our light. And I'm gonna put a cable tie on this, mainly 'cause of this particular area here. This is where I store the ramps from my trailer, so I don't want my wiring to potentially get caught when loading or unloading a ramp. So, we're gonna make sure we keep this up and out of the way. I may even add an additional clamp or something to it to further keep that out of the way of my ramps here. Maybe something underneath that'll hold it like this, just for clearance purposes. 'Cause that previous wiring I had in here, I've already repaired that when I first bought the trailer because of loading into ramp. It was hanging down and I had damaged the wiring. So, this is gonna be wiring repair number two after that old wiring that I fixed before wore out. So, this all looks good here. We are now at a point where we can actually test it. I'll secure this here in a minute, but we can test it out. Before we test it, I'm gonna go ahead and go up to the front, though, we're gonna show you just a couple other pieces in the kit 'cause we did wire it up slightly different, so we'll show you that extra pieces and how you use those on your trailer and vehicle. So, we're here back at the front of the trailer and we've got ours all hooked up, but I just wanted to cover a few things. So, if you we're gonna use just this and not hook into a junction box, this would just kinda hang out here at the front. You would wanna ground it to a ring terminal here at the front. Now, these are the ring terminals that you get in your kit right here. I don't personally like this. This is a difficult style of ring terminal to properly crimp. And then there's one more problem that I saw with this beyond the ring terminal is that it tells you to secure it with the included self-tapping screw and this is not at all what you would wanna use. It's not the proper self-tapping head to drill in the metal. And it's got a tapered head there, which is not good for providing good surface area contact to your grounding ring terminal mechanism here. So, I just recommend not using these for your ground. We showed you using good ring terminals inside of our junction box. That's what I would recommend also using for your ground wire. If you're not gonna use a junction box, just get one of those ring terminals, use it here and use a self-tapping screw, an actual one, not what comes in your kit. And I'll zip this out, just so I can show you what it looks like, so you can see what a self-tapping screw looks like. So, after we get this pulled out of there, there, you can see, it actually has like a drill tip end on it. This is what you would want to use to secure your ground wire or something like this. And this is where my previous, original setup when I bought the trailer was, until I added the junction box and I got rid of that and used the junction box. Now, I'm just gonna put this back in here. It kinda just, it just kinda hangs out up there now, so it can stay there. So, the end that we cut off here, this is the trailer's side. But also, in your kit, you get a side for your truck. If the wiring on your truck is no, maybe your connector's worn out, you can replace that with this, just wire everything color for color to replace it. If your truck doesn't have a four-pole, then you could use this to add it by tapping into your existing wiring on your trailer for your lights. So, you could take the green wire and run it over to your passenger's side stop and turn signal on your trailer. Yellow goes to the driver's side and brown will go to your taillights. Now, I really don't recommend doing it like that. That's how my truck's hooked up, but my truck's an 88, so it's pretty old. Anything modern, I would recommend buying a harness here at etrailer. We have custom-fit harnesses that come with modules that will protect your vehicle if there's any faults on your trailer. Wiring this directly to your lights on your vehicle and plugging it into your trailer, if you got any shorts or faults on your trailer, it will affect your vehicle and probably take out the lights on your vehicle as well. So, this really isn't recommended, but it is nice that they provide it. Because if you have an existing four-pole or like one of the kits we just talked about here at etrailer, if that four-pole end somehow got damaged, maybe dragged on the road a little bit, you can replace just the end with this, so it is nice you get this. But again, also, do not use, I don't recommend using this self-tapper and stuff for your ground wire. And then you also get these quick splices, so you can take this wiring and quick splice it into your vehicle wiring. That's how you would quickly tap in to your existing lights on your vehicle. I also don't recommend this 'cause oftentimes, it's gonna be a good point for corrosion to occur, so I really don't recommend that either. I am gonna save this though. I'm gonna throw this in my box 'cause this is my trailer. And if my connector on my truck ever wears out, then I'm gonna be using this to fix that connector end. All right, so we've gone ahead and plugged into our test box here. This just simulates all the outputs that you would have on a truck or a car, vehicle, whatever you're gonna be using to pull your trailer, it simulates the output, so I plugged in my seven-way connector here at the front. I do also have a four-way connector on this trailer, but the seven-way is what I usually use for my truck. You still get the same lighting functions with a seven-way and with a four-way. We'll test both just to make sure. But first thing we're gonna turn on is our taillights. We can see, they're operating there at the back. That all looks good. We've got our left turn signal, and that's operating. Our right turn signal, and that's all good. As well as our brake lights. I'm gonna switch back to taillights real quick and we're gonna head underneath the driver's side and verify that that the license plate light is illuminating downward. And if I put my hand down there, you can see, it's clearly lit up there versus back here and there. So, our light is working down there. Now, you don't get any hardware for mounting up your license plate to the bracket, but you can get that at your local hardware store to mount it up. You have slotted holes here for mounting it in, so you got a little bit of a variety of size. And now, just to show you that the four-way connector is gonna provide the same signals to our lights here, that this is working, I plugged in an adapter into our test box that converts the test box seven-way down to a four-way. And we've got our four-way connector here that we have on our trailer, we got that plugged in. We'll check our lights again. There we have taillights, left turn, right turn and brakes. So, everything works properly from both our seven and our four-way connector. Again, the seven was already existing, but you'll be installing a four-way and you can see that it all works. And now, at this point, I still do have it jacked up, so I can run underneath, I'm gonna just double-check any wiring, use some cable ties and stuff as necessary to make sure it's all secured. And once I'm satisfied, I'll get it down off the jack and I'm ready to hook up to my truck and hit the road. And that completes our look at Optronics waterproof LED trailer light kit..

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Employee Andrew K
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Andrew K
Employee Dustin K
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Dustin K
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Chris R
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Employee Schuyler H
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Employee Cole B
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