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Titan Disc Brake Assembly Installation

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How to Install the Titan Disc Brake Assembly

Today, we're going to be taking a look at the Titan Disc Brake Assembly for 10" Hub and Rotors, offering a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern, a Dacromet finish, and a 3500 pound capacity, part number is T10HREKITBB.Now, this is what your assembly will look like once you get it installed. Now, disc brakes will have a huge advantage over drum style brakes. Of course, all cars and everything have switched over to this type. Basically, you get superior braking performance and you get a lot less wear So, our caliper is going to force the brake pads to squeeze onto the rotor, that gives us our stopping force, but then it's going to release. It's going to give that tension away, that way we don't have to worry about any pressure on it.Now, this rotor overall is 9-3/4". It gives us superior stopping power, designed for use on 3500 pound axles, and it's going to have the five, see we've got five 1/2" wheel studs, and that's going to be on a 4-1/2" pattern, so five on 4-1/2 is what you're looking for.

And generally, this kit is going to be used on 13-15" wheels, but you can use wheels slightly larger.Now the rotor and our calipers, they're going to have a dacromet finish on it. Basically, dacromet is going to give you a very corrosion resistant setup. Of course, the area here, you can already see, we've spun it a few times. The brake pads are going to wear through that and you'll have steel on pad contact, but the rest of the system is going to resist corrosion very well.Now, that's going to be especially important on boat trailers that you're going to have in and out of the water constantly. Something I would recommend if you're going to be doing a salt water type application, you might want to go with the stainless steel.

It just has a little bit better corrosion resistant properties than the dacromet, but these are certainly going to be better than just standard or zinc coating.Something else I like about this setup, it is a ventilated rotor, so it's going to help to cool it down. The setup that was on here just had a top hat or just a single plate rotor, and of course, that's going to get heated up a lot more quickly than what we get out of this style of setup.Now the pads are automotive grade, so they're going to give us superior stopping force. As you can see, it's going to be a nice, thick pad. These are ceramic, so we're not dealing with the semi-metallic kind of dust that comes off of those. Ceramic pads are a lot better about that.

And then, the pads themselves on the leading edge here and the following edge, those are going to be beveled, that'll reduce any of the chatter or anything like that to make sure we don't have a noisy brake setup.Now, it's going to come with anything you need as long as your axle has a four bolt brake flange on it. We're going to have our caliper bracket, we've got our caliper, and we've got our new disc. It's also going to come with the new bearings, it's going to come with new seals to go inside. And in this case with the kit, also the bearing buddy. Now, this is an excellent solution to keeping and maintaining grease inside of your hub or your disc.

You can see, we've got a grease Zerk right there. There's a spring on the front, so that hold a little bit of pressure on it. If you get too much grease in there, rather than it blowing out the seal on the backside, which we've kind of seen in the past, it's going to come out of the front. So, we fully greased it, got it packed full, and you can see a little bit's come out of the front, indicating that we've got it properly lubricated.Now, here's your old disc and caliper assembly. Basically, you can see it's been time for a replacement here for quite a while. If you look close enough, there's not even a brake pad here on the outside, so this system was not working at all. We're going to get this completely removed, and we want to get right down to our spindle. Basically, that'll be taking off our disc, take off our caliper, we'll show you how to do that.Now, your application may be a little bit different, but in this one, we've got a couple of nuts that are her eon the back side. We're going to take these off. Ours use a 3/4" wrench, really the only way to get in there. Maybe a socket. That allows us to move our caliper a little bit. We've got that portion loose. It's not going to come off without this coming off. So, that's going to be our next step.So, I think it's kind of seized up. These pins should slide. Right here, they should slide in and out, but it's just seen better days. I'm going to get this old bearing buddy out of there. Clearly, you can see it's been leaking. Just have to hope our spindle's in good shape once we get in there.Now, we're going to rotate the disc, and we need to tap this one. Again, it has a bearing buddy, yours might just have a metal cap over the end of it. And you're just going to tap, and you'll see how it starts to separate around that edge there. Eventually, it's going to come off. Just like that. Now we can take some towels and clean up that a little bit.And cleaning this up, we're going to see the nut inside, and we'll determine how it's kept on there. This one is going to be a castle nut with a cotter pin. You might have a clip that slides over it. A couple different manners that they can be held, but we just want to get that out so we can see it. let me pull that out so we can loosen that nut.Grab a hold of it with a pair of needle nose, and once we've got those straightened out, you can see you can kind of push on those, give you room to get your needle nose on here and get it out.Next step will be backing our nut off. Now, we're going to have new bearings. We're going to have new braces to go in there. But let's hang on to our nut and our thrust washer just in case we need to reuse them. I'm just going to take that off with one piece. Keep your finger on that bearing or it'll come out and get on you.Now to get on the back side here. We really want to clean this spindle up. As we do this, we need to inspect for any kind of damage. Mainly what we're going to be looking for are significant signs of heat, major discoloration. This is the area, our seal, it's going to spin around that constantly as the trailer is in motion. So, we need to make sure that's nice and it's in good shape, which it is. The spindle looks okay. A little bit of discoloration here, but it doesn't look like it's had any negative effects on it. Looks like they got the bearings before they caused any damage. If you see any major scarring, any divots, any imprints in this, that's certainly something you'll want to address. And basically, a lot of times, that's going to be just putting on a new axle, unfortunately. But it happens.Now we've got our caliper bracket, it's held in place with four bolts here in our application. We're going to use a 5/8" wrench and a socket. And just get that cleaned up nicely. We'll have a good mounting surface there. And we'll do the same thing on the other side. Basically anything we do here it's going to be the exact same on the opposite side, so just keep that in mind.Then, we'll get our new brake flange put in place. You can see these little raised bumps that are going to be on your flange. That helps to center this, so you want those to be just inside of that lip all of the way around. And we're going to be putting on new hardware, you saw the condition of that old hardware, no sense in putting that back on.Now the hardware we're using is going to be replacement hardware. It's part number BRKH10A. It's going to be for the 10" braking assembly, and you'll have eight bolts, nuts, and lock washers. We're going to put a nut and lock washer on the back of each of the bolts. Now, we'll secure these down. We're going to use a 5/8 here on the outside. You want an 11/16 for the nut.Now, we've got the outer and inner bearing. We need to pack these full of grease before we get our disc put in place. You can see, there's a larger gap on that larger side on that back side. There are many different ways to pack bearings, there are bearing packers out there and available in the market. I like just doing it by hand. Grab some.Now of course, we're going to be using marine grade grease, this is a boat trailer. It offers a little bit better corrosion resistant properties than your standard grease.if you're using this on a utility trailer or a travel trailer, something like that, you can just use the standard red grease. And we'll start packing it in there.Now as we go, you can see that grease has been forced up and through, creating those little kind of droplets on the top there. We'll want to do that all the way around to ensure our bearing is fully packed. We've got our inner bearing taken care of, this is our smaller outer bearing that you can see, it's pushing it up through there. I like doing it this way, it doesn't take a whole lot more time than what it would with a bearing packer and you ensure that you get grease all the way through.All right, now we've got our inner bearing. We've placed it down inside the back side of our disc here. We need to get our seal put in place. So, you're going to place it squarely on there. We're going to begin tapping around the outside to get that seated in place. Then we're going to tap that down so it becomes flush. Now, we're using a dead blow hammer. If you don't have a dead blow, you can also use a small block of wood and kind of use that to tap down. Not really recommended that you use a steel hammer on it, because more than likely you're going to damage the seal before you ever get it in.Now, we're going to bring that over to our spindle. Remember, we've cleaned that off really well. We're going to get that slid on, seated, and then we'll place our outer bearing there. Now the tapered side should be facing in, and that goes for the front and back bearing there. Get that slide in and then place our thrust washer back on. Then we can thread back on our castle nut. Now if you loosen that up just a little bit, we've got a little in and out play with our disc. Kind of see it moving. We want to eliminate all of that. We don't want it to be overly tight, we still want this to be able to spin nice and freely, just about like that, with zero end play, zero movement in and out.All right. Now we've got two holes in this particular spindle, yours might just have one in it, but we need to line up one of the gaps so we can slide a cotter pin through. And we need to grab the ends of it and we need to bend those in, just like that. That's going to keep our nut from backing off. Remember, we didn't tighten it up really all that tight, so that'll keep that from loosening up on us.Now we'll get our caliper in place. These are caliper slide bolts. We want to make sure we've got those pushed back and in, make sure we've got our pad pulled out here. And we're going to slide that over our rotor. We want to line our caliper bolts up with the threaded holes that we've got in the back of that bracket, which will be right here, same spot on the bottom side.Now, you can see right here where the brake line need sot go into the caliper. It's right in line with that spring pack. So what we're going to do, we're going to rotate that 90 degrees so it'll be pointing straight up. That'll give us a lot better opportunity to get our hose attached when the time comes. Just loosen up our bolts to pull that back off and get that rotated. And so, you're just going to give that a rotate using a 12mm wrench. Now, we'll just grab our torque wrench, get those torqued down.Now, it's time for us to get our bearing buddy in place. This works like any traditional cap on the end, whether it's a solid metal, the easy lube. But basically, this is going to give us a little bit of pressure in the keep the grease packed in properly, but it also has a little weep hole, which we can't see right now. Once we have grease in it, we'll see it, and it'll leak out of the front a little bit rather than putting too much pressure on it. Just going to line that up, and just kind of like we did the seal, just want to gently start it and tap it in all of the way around until it's firmly seated, just like that.Now for running our hydraulic lines from our calipers here up to the front of your trailer, that's really of course going to depend on your application, but I like to start just kind of loosely installing things. So, we're going to pull this yellow cap out of the caliper. You can see our flexible line here. Two of them are going to have these 90 degree bends. We're going to thread that in to where we pulled that yellow cap out.We're using the main cross member on the trailer, we're not going across an axle, and that's just going to come over to our hard line bracket here, running into our line, it's eventually just going down to the caliper there. Now, we get everything in position. We've got our lines the way we want them to be ran, everything is in a safe spot, so now we're going to go through and we're going to tighten down all of our fittings to ensure that we've got a good connection.Now with our actuator installed, we've got all of our connections made all the way throughout. It's time to add fluid into the reservoir here on top. So, we're going to open that up. Now, the brake fluid you pick, you want to make sure that you just opened it, that you just opened this seal. Brake fluid that sits around for a long time, it draws moisture into it and it reduces it's effectiveness, so we want a fresh pint of brake fluid here. Generally, it takes two or three pints to get the entire system flush, some a little bit more, some a little bit less. We're just going to top it off, cap it back up. And we'll go through the bleeding process.Now, I cannot stress to you enough the importance of keeping fluid in this reservoir. If you are bleeding the brakes, pumping fluid through it, and this runs dry, well then you're just going to pump air into the system, and then you have to go through the whole thing again. So, be sure every one or two times that you have someone hold the lever, which we'll show you here just a second, and open that up, that you take a look in there you've got the pressure, or at least the fluid you need to keep it pressurized.You'll notice here as we pump that, the air coming up in the reservoir, so that's slowly getting fluid down into our master cylinder. That'll eventually work intelligent our lines. We're just going to do this until we don't see the air here and that it's being pushed all of the way back in through the system. And you can kind of see at this point, we have very little, if any, air coming out at all, so that means we're going to be primed here. Now it's time to start going to the back. And remember, we're going to top off this fluid every chance we get. Keep that full.Now for bleeding the system, we're going to use the top bleeder screw on each side, that's why there's one on the bottom, one on the top, so regardless of which side the caliper goes on, we always want to use the upper one. We've got the rubber cap, we're going to take that off. And we want to turn the smaller portion here. For that, you want to use a 5/16. It's lefty, loosey, righty, tighty. But you need something to catch the fluid. And see our very sophisticated device that we've come up with. Basically, it's going to be a rubber hose, it goes in the top of a water bottle.So, we'll place this over the top of that bleeder and we'll go ahead and have them pump up the brakes. Once they've got that pressure held, we want to open this. And by opening it, we're going to release the pressure inside there. It'll give us a little bit of air that comes out. And we just need to continue this process until we get rid off all the air that's coming through, and we just have pure fluid. Okay, go ahead.You can see on the bottom of our bottle here, we've got just a little bit of fluid. Lets watch as we break this open, see those bubbles forming That's what we're getting rid of. So, each one of those bubbles indicates air that's coming out of our line. Okay. We'll tighten it back up. Go ahead.Now a couple of tips for bleeding the system, start with the one that's furthest away from the actuator. Basically if we drew a line, they'd be the same distance, but this one has more brake lines, so we're going to start here. And you can see, we've still got air coming out, but we're also starting to get a little bit of fluid. Just want to make sure that we can do this three or four times and not have any air come out. At that point, pretty much this line is void of any air. We'll go over to the other one. All right. Looks like that this point, pure fluid coming out. So, we'll just move over to the other side and we'll do the same thing there. Now, that should take us a lot less time, because we don't have to work to all the way form the actuator through all the lines. And once you're done with this side, put that bleeder cap back on just to keep it free of debris.All right, and once we've got that system bled, we want to refill our reservoir, make sure we've got plenty of fluid there. And we're going to do the same thing we did before. We're going to apply pressure here, and then we're going to check each of our connection points and make sure we don't have any leaks.Then the last step will be just to put your rims back on. You can see we're reusing our old lug nuts. The hub kit didn't come with new ones. And we'll get these snugged down, but be sure to torque them to whatever specification your trailer required. Then once that's in place, we're just going to fill it and you'll see that center section kind of come out towards us a little bit there. And once we have grease that starts to bypass, we'll know we've got it filled up properly. At that point, just put your protective cover over it there and that'll keep out all of the moisture. When we place our cap over, I always like to give a little bit of a push there in the middle to get our any kind of excess air that might be in there.Now, we can check out, make sure everything is working, which we know it is, but it's good to do. What we're going to do is rotate our tire here, we'll get it spinning, and we'll have somebody manually activate the brakes for us up there. And see, it comes to a nice stop.And that'll complete our installation of the Titan Disc Brake Assembly, part number T10HREKITBB.

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Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Randy B
Installed by:
Randy B
Employee Zach D
Video Edited:
Zach D

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