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Titan Hydraulic Brake Lines and Fittings Review

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Review of the Titan Hydraulic Brake Lines and Fittings


Speaker 1: Today, we're gonna be taking at look at and showing you how to install the Titan hydraulic brake lines and fittings for tandem axles, part number T4830000. So if your trailer's brake lines need to be replaced because they're either rusted and worn out or possibly got damaged underneath, our Titan brake line kit is gonna be a great option because it's gonna have everything we need to replace the brake lines on a tandem axle trailer. This comes with a total of five flexible rubber hoses, one from coming to the back of your master cylinder, going to the hard line and then one for each wheel position and it's gonna be a 1/8 rubber hose and it's gonna be flexible enough so that if we have any kind of movement, as well as the suspension moving up and down, we're gonna be able to accommodate that. With every trailer being a little bit different, our kit is gonna have all the length of line that you're gonna need and all the T's you need to get in place to get to each position on our trailer.With that in mind that each trailer is gonna be slightly different, we'll show you how we put it on ours. To begin our installation, we made sure that our master cylinder on our actuator is empty and we removed all the existing brake lines that we're on our trailer. So we're gonna start out with a flexible rubber hose and it's gonna have a fitting that's gonna match the back of our actuator here and the other end is gonna have this clip installed that the hard line is gonna thread into.

So we're gonna take our hose and we're gonna thread it into the back of the actuator. Get it nice and snug and then we can come back with a wrench and tighten it up. So with our flexible hose at the master cylinder in place, we're gonna start putting our flexible hoses on the back of our brake assemblies. Now the fitting's gonna go back into the back of the wheel cylinder. It should be on the back of our brake assembly right up here.So we're gonna start off by taking the fitting and putting it inside and then we're just gonna loosely hand tighten it so that we can still move the hose.

Now our kit is gonna come with some brackets. That's actually gonna secure our flex hose and what it's gonna go into. So we're gonna need to secure it to the bottom of our frame here. So I'm gonna take a marker and I'm gonna mark a spot right where this little notch is gonna go and that's gonna prevent any kind of movement. I'm gonna drill a 1/4" pilot hole where that notch is gonna go into.

So we're gonna modify the angle we're gonna put it so that when our brake line goes over our axle, hopefully it won't be right above the U bolts. So we're gonna angle it just a little bit and then we're gonna mark our mounting hole. So then I'm gonna take a self tapping screw and I'm gonna go ahead and start the hole before I get my bracket in place.So then I grab a small washer to go around my self tapping screw to provide a little more surface area so when it bites in, I don't have to worry about it slipping through. So we're gonna take our flexible hose and we're gonna push it through the opening. Then we're gonna make sure that it goes all the way through it's nice and snug up against it and then we're gonna take our little keeper brackets and slide it around the collar on the flexible hose.

Now there's gonna be a little tab at the bottom. You want to make sure that's facing away from the hose. It is gonna be a snug fit. But you're just gonna press it into place and that's gonna keep that hose from moving around and falling out of the bracket. So now with our hose in place, we're gonna position the fitting at the top of the brake assembly so that the hose has enough slack to move, but it's not gonna come in contact with anything or rub anything.So you may have to play with it a little bit until you find a good spot and then once you find a spot where it's not gonna touch or rub anything. Then we're gonna tighten that fitting down and it'll keep the hose from spinning. So now that we have this one in place, we're gonna repeat that for all the other positions on our trailer. With all the flexible lines in place and all the brackets ready, we can get ready to put our T's in place. Now, the reason why we're gonna have to have these T's is because we're gonna have to go from the main line coming from the master cylinder and it's gonna come into the T. One side is gonna go to the front axle and then the other side is gonna go to the rear axle. Now in order for us to get the fluid from each axle to each side, they are gonna provide us with two more T's. Then once we have the fluid coming out of the main line, it's gonna be going into the T and then it'll be going to the right and left side.So our main line gonna be coming on our left side of our trailer. So we're gonna mount one of the T's relatively close to where it's gonna be coming from and we're just gonna take a self tapping screw and secure it right to the bottom of the frame here. We are gonna have a very short line and that's gonna be connecting the two T's together that are gonna be close to each other. So we're gonna loosely thread them in place to get an idea of where we're gonna mount our T. Then we can mount our other T right here in the frame. Now for our third T, I'm gonna come to the one that's gonna be for our supply line and I'm gonna go directly back to the rear axle and we're gonna be mounting this the same way we did with the other ones.Now, our line is just a little bit too long and we have the option of either putting it in one end and marking it and cutting and using a double flaring tool or what we can do is is we can put a slight S curve in there just to take up some of the slack. I just want to mention when you are bending it, you want to be extremely careful not to kink the line. Now if you have a tubing bender, you're gonna want to go ahead and use that instead of just using your hands. Just gonna put it in the appropriate slot and then apply pressure and it'll cause the tube to bend rather than kink because it's gonna go around that radius right there. So once you have your curves in place, you do the same thing. We're gonna take our line, insert it into the T and then right now, we're just gonna leave this hand tight and we're gonna throw that fitting on. Then we can come back to the other T, insert our line in, making sure that it's going in nice and straight.We can take our fitting and put it into place. Now you may need to bend it a little bit. Just make sure everything's nice and straight. Make sure everything lines up. Now the lines are gonna be a little loose in there because they are just hand tight. But after we get all our lines ran, then we can come back and secure them however we need to. Next, we're gonna go ahead and grab our 17" line and this is gonna be going to the left wheel cylinder where we had our flexible hose. So we can go ahead and loosely thread it in place just to get an idea of where it's gonna go and then if we come over and follow it to where our second T is, it's gonna need to go into this fitting right here. So we are gonna have to do a little bit more bending and get it into our T. Now once you have your line bent to go from this fitting over to the flexible hose, you can put it into place. Just gonna loosely put the fittings in just like we have been.So on our rear T fitting, we're gonna do the same thing with that 17" line, except we're gonna go from the left hand side and we're gonna go to wherever we have our soft line mounted. Now the T where our front axle is tied into, where we have the left side put on, we're gonna come to outside fitting and that's gonna run along the frame here and it's gonna attach to our rubber hose on the outside. Now we have plenty of line. But we are gonna have to cut it because this is gonna be a 66" line and that's entirely too much. You can wind it out if you want and have a little pigtail curlicue at the end. We're gonna be cutting the line and using a double flaring tool. So we can mark our line and then we're gonna have to take it off so that we can cut it and put a flare in it. Now you're gonna wanna use a tubing cutter to cut the line.Now also, before you flare it, you want to make sure that your fitting is on the inside of the flare because otherwise, you're gonna have to cut it off and restart. Now once the cutter makes contact, you're gonna rotate it around the tube a few times and then you're gonna slowly tighten the nob to apply more pressure and then continue to do that until the tube is cut. So we're gonna be using our flaring tool. I just want to make sure that everybody knows that the line is a 3/16 line and you want to put a double flare into it. So if you flare it correctly, this is what it's gonna look like when you're done. Now if yours didn't come out like this or if it has any cracks in it, you're gonna need to cut it off and start again. So with our line flared, we're gonna go ahead and put it in place and we're gonna do the same thing for the rear axle. We're gonna measure out our line, cut it to length and put our flare in.So we should have one more port open on our T and that's gonna be coming in from our main line. So we're gonna have to run this from the T all the way up to the front right by the master cylinder where we had that flexible hose. Now fortunately for us, we have holes drilled from where the lines we're running previously. But we don't want to have our lines rubbing against the bare metal. So we're gonna put in these snap bushing grommets. Now if you'd like to use some of these or pick some of these up on our website, you can use part number SWC8057 and you're just gonna need to have an 11/16 hole drilled so you can push the grommet right in place. So we're gonna run our line and dry fit it just like we did for the rear lines, cut it to length and flare it with our flaring tool. Once you have all your lines ran, you're gonna come back with a 3/8 wrench and you're gonna tighten down all the fittings. Now it is very important that you don't round off the nut that's on the fitting.So if you can, use a line wrench and we're gonna repeat that for all of the fittings on our trailer. Your kit's gonna come with these little plastic keepers and that's to hold the brake line in place and you just take a self tapping screw. You're gonna hold it in place. However, we're gonna be replacing them with then loom clamps. They got a little bit of rubber on the inside. I just think they're gonna have a little bit letter protection and hold them in place a little bit better. Now for an added layer of protection, we're gonna be filing our holes with some silicone and that's just gonna prevent any kind of movement in our brake lines and if they do move, they'll have to run through the silicone and then the plastic also before it'll actually start doing any damage. Now if you need some silicone, you can pick some up on our website, using part number LT37467.So with everything tightened, everything in place, we can go ahead and fill up our master cylinder and start bleeding our brakes and that'll finish up your look at the Titan hydraulic brake lines and fittings for tandem axles, part number T4830000.


Questions and Comments about this Video


Ben O.
Why dont you use a 4 way instead of 2 Tees? You would have less fittings to leak or mess with.

Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C

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