TruRyde Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle Installation

Products Featured in this Video

Hub Bearing Kit for Lippert, Dexter, and AL-KO Axles - 3,500 lb with #84 Spindle

2214 reviews

Code: BK2-100

Retail: $28.82

Price:  $25.17

• Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
• Bearings
• Standard Bearings
• Bearing Kits

• Bearing L44649 and L68149
• Race L68111 and L44610
• 3500 lbs Axle
• etrailer

Contains everything needed to repack one hub on your Lippert, Dexter, or AL-KO 3,500-lb axle.

Do you have a question about part BK2-100?more information >     

How to Install the TruRyde Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle

Today we're going to take a look at and we're also going to show you how to install the TruRyde Bearing Kit for the number 84 spindle. The part number is BK2-100. As far as replacing this, what this is essentially going to do is it's going to rebuild our hub. Rather than having to go out and buy a new hub, we're going t be able to remove old races, take out our old bearings, our old seal, and put in the new stuff that's going to provide us with an excellent essentially full bearing mount. That's going to allow our trailer to move very freely down the road. We'll of course pack these with grease and just keep this nice and low temp.

We don't have to worry about heat building up or anything. The double lip seal is going to keep grease and things like that from getting into our braking system itself. Of course we'll start with our tire removed. We're also going to remove the cap that's here on the end. That's the full metal cap that goes all the way around. If it's an easy lube hub it's going to have a black cap on the end.

If not, it's just going to be a dome. What you want to do is just tap on the side of it and we'll slowly rotate that hub, and you'll see a crack starting to appear. We'll just keep working it a little bit back and forth and it'll just pop off for us. It's time to get some of that grease out of the way. Actually in behind here there is a nut and also that cotter pin that we'll be taking out.

You can see the top of it right there. Needle nose pliers are going to be the right tool for the job here. What we want to do is just rotate that cotter pin, the bottom portion of it, out. If you push on those a little bit, the head of that cotter pin will come up and we'll just grab it and pull it on out of there. Now it's time for channel locks here. I'm taking that nut off the end.

We want to hang onto our nut. We're going to be reusing that. Once that's off, if we give it a little wiggle you'll see our old washer is right here and just behind that we're going to have our old bearing. Pull those out and set them aside. We're also going to remove our hub. You see the back side. That's what our magnet actually contacts, so it's nice and smooth there. We want to clean off our spindle here and we need to inspect it. What we're going to be looking for, any major rub marks, any big gouges or anything. I'll show you the specific areas you want to look here in just a second. This area right here is going to be where our outer bearing rides. We want to make sure that that's really nice and smooth with no marring. The area right here before this hump is going to be where our inner bearing is going to ride. Just the same, we want to make sure it's nice and smooth, there's no gouges or anything. Then the little shoulder that sits right here, that's what our seal fits around. If our seal is fitting around that, that's supposed to seal in all of our grease that we've got in here lubricating everything. Just make sure those surfaces are nice and smooth. Here on the other side is a good example of an axle that you might want to consider for replacement. As you can see, it's pretty roughed up around here. It looks like somebody's had a major fail in this area. You can see big gouges that have been cut. The byproduct will then be what you see here, where grease gets slung around inside of this brake assembly, which eventually just gums up our brakes, cause them where they don't have a very effective stopping power. If this is what you see when you get everything cleaned up, this is going to be a good candidate for replacement. Back here on our hub, what we need to do is get this inner seal out of the way. Typically a screw driver and block of wood and then just a little bit of prying up or twisting up on it is going to help us get that out. About ninety-nine percent of the time you damage them, so even if you're just repack your bearings, you're definitely going to want to have that seal. If the screw driver doesn't work, you can move up to a pry bar here. If you fight with this seal for very long and it's still not coming out, one of the best things I found to do is just kind of take your screw driver over here on the edge of it and kind of knock it in. That's going to cause it to kind of suck in a little bit and it usually comes out pretty easy. Behind that we're going to have our old inner bearing there. Now it would be a good idea to get all of this cleaned up. We talked about this being our outer race. What this does is it fits inside of our hub here, so it sits right in here. That's the angled piece we see around the outside. This one is worn, so we need to remove it. To do it, we need to drive from the back side so that it'll come out this way. You can pick your pleasure kind of on how you want to get this out. We just want to get that down and in to where it's going to sit on the ledge of that race, and we'll start hitting that side. Then we'll come to this side and hit it, and just keep working our way around and it might come out. This is what we're looking for there. If we look on the back side or the outside here, a lot of times you'll be able to find the old number. For getting our outer race back in a block of wood is a good idea here. Just kind of a tap around the outside of it, just see if we can get it seated. You see this side is in a little bit further than that side, so we need to work on that side a little bit. Run that down flush. At this point, driving our race in all the way down until it seats can be a little bit of a challenge. Some guys will use screw drivers and things like that. Another alternative for our outer race here is going to be an inch and a half socket. For a larger inner race, that's going to require one that's an inch and eleven-sixteenths. If you don't want to go out and buy two specific sockets that you may never have use for again, something that is really nice is part number PTW83020. This is going to be a seven piece driver kit that works for seals, it's going to work for races, and it also works for bearings. This is one that most closely matches my inner seal here. You can see that's going to go down in place and that's going to knock it firmly down in there. The end is what we switch out for different size kits. This one works great for our outer bearing here. We're going to need one with the larger size, which is just a quick replacement . You can see we've got seven different sizes to choose from. Switch that out, and then we just thread this back in and we're ready to drive a different size. Of course if you don't have that, like we said, if you do have the socket that's a good alternative. You just want to make sure it fits down in there without any damage, and then just like before we knock that down in there until that tone changes and we can run our finger behind that race all the way around. That's going to allow us to confirm that we don't have any gaps in there. Now we can work on getting our inner race out. We're going to use the same method as we did on our outer for the inner. There it is. Now is a good time to get our hub cleaned up. What we're going to use is some brake clean here. We're going to clean the surface all the way around here where our shoes are going to ride. We're going to clean our magnet surface, and then of course get off any of the grease or the grime that might still be inside or around the inside here. This is a pretty dirty job, so putting something under it so it doesn't stain the driveway is a good idea. Now let's finish getting any grease that we can off of our spindle here. This is an easy lube, so what I'm going to do while I've got this open is just put a little bit of grease in there. See, it's going to shoot out the old grease. It's usually going to come out kind of like a black or a dark red, but a point you'll see that we've got nice fresh grease coming out. That's all we really need to do, just make sure we're not going to pump old grease into our bearing once we get everything in there. Now we're ready to pack our new bearings. As you can see, we've got our inner packed already. Basically, I like to just grab a handful of grease and then start pushing it through the outside casing of that bearing. Let me show you in a minute here it'll come up. As we do this, we'll be forcing grease up through the bearing and you're going to see the little rounded knobs start poking through. That indicates we've got our grease fully through. We just keep working around the outside until we have that all the way around. For this application, which is non-marine, we're just using the standard red OMX grease. If you are using it in a marine application, you'll want to use the blue grease, which is a water resistant type. All right, we got grease coming through it all the way around. I'll put that down for now and we'll get cleaned up and then we can put our inner bearing in and also drive our seal in. We're going to drop our bearing in the race that we had installed. We're going to grab our seal. That get's placed right on top of there. Then we're going to use our seal driver here. You could also use a block of wood to go on top. It's just a matter of getting that lined up. Drive that in just like that. Now we're ready to go put it on our spindle. Slide that on. We want to wiggle it and we'll feel that seal kind of give us some resistance and we'll just pop it on from there. Now we'll grab our outer bearing. That's going to slide in. You can see how it seats right inside of the race. Then we're going to put our original flat washer back on. With the rounded type spindle like this, you want to reuse that flat washer. If the spindle has a flat spot, we'll use the washers that came with the kid. Now we'll thread on our castle nut. We want to tighten it down all the way to start. It should be nice and secure. Our drum there should be, as you can see, a little bit tougher to move. Once we get it there, we just want to back it off just a touch. We don't want to be able to move it in and out at all, but we want it to be able to spin pretty freely. Cotter pin to go in, and we'll use the needle nose and get the two tabs pulled out to center each other here. Now we're going to fill the assembly with grease until we see it coming out around our bearing path. When it's full, that's what you'll want to see. See how your grease kind of comes out around there Now we can take our dust cap . As you can see we're using a new one here, and we get it knocked on there just like that. With that all replaced, our bearing kit is installed, we've got a nice rebuilt hub here that should give us years of good service as long as we keep up with lubricating it, and we're ready to head around and take care of the other three positions. That's going to complete our installation of the bearing kit for the number 84 spindle, part number BK2-100.