Ventline Ventadome Trailer Roof Vent Installation

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How to Install the Ventline Ventadome Trailer Roof Vent


Speaker 1: Today we're going to be taking a look at the Ventline vented dome trailer roof vent in white. It's also available in smoke and with white with the birch trim. To help us with our installation, we're going to be using the vent installation kit, part number 3-4-4-2-7-0-K-I-T-W. Here's what our vent is going to look like once we have it installed. Here, you have a manual vent, so we can simply rotate this knob to close the vent, or if we want to let some of that hot air out of our trailer, we can rotate it the other way, opening the vent up.Now, our Ventline vent is going to be a standard replacement vent, or if you're adding a new vent, just keep in mind you are going to need a 14 and a quarter by 14 and a quarter square hole. It is going to have this removable screen, which is going to keep a lot the bugs, dirt, and other kind of debris from falling inside our trailer.

But also be extremely easy to remove and clean, if we need to.If you're looking to replace your broken vent, or upgrade your camper or trailer with a new vent, our Ventline vented dome vent is going to be a great choice. It's going to have that cover to keep all that rain and debris out, but also, again, allowing a little bit of light in and all that fresh air to come in and that stale air to escape. The cover on top is going to be semi-transparent, so it is going to allow some sunlight in, even when the lid is closed. As you can see, this one has a white lid on it, but it's also available in smoke, so it's going to be like a translucent black. It still will have a little bit of light coming through, but not as much as the white one.Now, with the lid closed, at the highest point, it's going to be right about five inches.

And with the lid fully open, at the highest point, it's going to be right about nine and a half inches. Now that we've seen what our vent looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.Speaking of installation, we're going to want to take out the interior garnish piece that's on our existing vent. As you can see, if we look up, our vent is broken and that's going to be why we're replacing it. Typically, we're going to have four fasteners holding the garnish in, but there's going to be a few more on this one, just because, as you can see, the garnish is cracking. They added a few more screws to try to prolong replacing it and keep it from coming down.Now, at the top, where our roof vent mounts, we're going to need to peel up all this sealant going around our vent, so we can get access to the screws that are holding it in place.

You can use a putty knife or anything you have available, but we're going to want to scrap up all that sealant going all the way around the vent. When you're taking it up, you want to be careful not to cut into the roof itself, or the membrane that's on the roof. You just want to take the sealant up and try your best not to damage anything else.Now that all this sealant is peeled away off of our vent, we're going to remove each one of the fasteners that's holding it down. With all the fasteners removed, it maybe a little bit difficult to peel up that vent, because there's probably some sealant, so if you can get your hand underneath one of the corners and we could peel it up, and remove it. Then we're going to want to clean this area off, scraping off any of that excess sealant and residue, so we have a nice clean surface to work with.

Again, just using a putty knife, or a scraper of some kind, just go around the edge of the mounting surface and clean off any of that excess residue.You can go ahead and grab the vent now and we want to make sure that the bottom edge is going seal nicely to the roof. That way, we don't have to worry about any kind of leaks. We can take our butyl tape, and it is going to be rolled up, so just take our roll, unroll a little bit. We're going to start at one corner and just push down going along the edge here. Once we get to the other side we can go ahead and tear a piece off. We're just going to repeat that for all the four edges. Just go down, going along the edge until we get to the other side. We can leave the backing on until we get ready to put it in place, that way we don't have to deal with it too much and worry about getting it on our hands, or anything like that.Now we just want to peel up the backing and remove it, and make sure that the butyl tape is still stuck to the vent. That's all right if you have a little bit of overlap, it will squish out once we put the vent down and it will seal up nicely. Now if we bring our vent upright, where the lid is going to be on top. We will see that there is going to be an arrow, so we want to make sure that, that arrow, is pointing towards the front when we put this in place. We'll take our vent, line it up in the hole in the roof, make sure that it goes all the way in the hole on all four corners. I'm just going to go around, just pressing it slightly into place. Then we can work on getting our hardware in.I'll be taking a number eight sheet metal screw and going into each one of the holes going around the perimeter of the vent. Again, it's all right if that butyl tape starts to come out. That way, we know we're going to have a good seal. And it will start to squish out around the edge as we start to screw it down. With all the hardware in place around the vent, it's securely attached. We want to make sure there's no leaks, so we're going to come back with the self-leveling sealant and we're going to make sure to cover up the bolt holes, as well as that outside flange. This is going in a zigzag motion going across. As you can see with the sealant, after only a few minutes, it is going to start to disburse and start to level itself out, so it's going to fill in all these little gaps on its own without having to go around with a putty knife and smooth it out. Once it dries, it is going to be paintable, but still remain flexible and it is going to adhere to most surfaces, like aluminum, wood, and even concrete.If you remember, our garnish was cracked and broken in a few spots, but our vent is going to come with a new one. This one is in white, but it is also available in birch, so it can match the interior. We're just going to slide our garnish in place. Now you may have to trim yours and you may have to add a piece of wood or something if it isn't deep enough. But once we have it loosely in place, we're going to take four of the wood screws and we're going to put one in each corner going directly into the ceiling. I'll get one started. I'm going to go to the opposite corner. To tighten these down, you just want them to be snug, so that the garnish isn't moving around. Because you don't want to go too much to where you're going to crack it. With our garnish in place, we can go ahead and turn the knob on our vent to open it up, allow some fresh air to come in.That will finish up your look at the Ventline vented dome trailer roof vent.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Bill B.

I am restoring a old Avalon camper and need a roof vent which size do I need

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

You probably need a 14" x 14" - so something like the Ventline # V2092SP-25 would be great if you aren't needing anything fancy. I'm also attaching a link to our selection of roof vents that fit a 14" x 14" opening for you to check out. You'll need to confirm the size of the opening in your roof to know if any of these options are compatible or not.

Info for these parts were:

Employee Kathleen M
Video by:
Kathleen M
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Robert C
Installed by:
Robert C

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